Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld adayang'ana pa kamera yojambula pa iPhone 6 yake ndikuwunikira chithunzi chomwe chidapezeka posachedwa: Wopanga waku Germany ali mnyamata atavala lederhosen. “Ndili mwana sindinkavala kalikonse,” iye anadandaula motero.Ma breeches achikopa adalimbikitsa chikwama chatsopano cha Chanel, ntchentche yakutsogolo idasandulika kukhala thumba la zipper lomwe lingapangitse kusodza kwa milomo kukhala chinthu chochititsa manyazi.
"Muyenera kuvomereza kuti ndizoseketsa, pamalire a zonyansa. Koma ndizomveka, "adatero Lagerfeld mokondwera powonera zojambula zake zaposachedwa za Métiers d'arts, zotchedwa Paris-Salzburg.
Popereka moyo watsopano ku kalembedwe ka Alpine, Lagerfeld amapititsa patsogolo cholowa cha dzina la nyumba yake Gabrielle Chanel, yemwe adapeza kudzoza kwa chimodzi mwazojambula zake zodziwika bwino komanso zokhalitsa mu jekete la thumba losiyana, lamatumba anayi lomwe amavalidwa ndi onyamula katundu wa Salzburg. hotelo yapadera ya Mittersall. Mwini wake panthawiyo, Baron Hubert von Pantz, anali wokonda Chanel m'zaka za makumi atatu, ndipo kubwerera kwake kumaloko zaka makumi awiri pambuyo pake kunali kwamwayi kwambiri.
"M'zaka za makumi asanu, adabwereranso kuno, ndi momwe adawonera jekete iyi ndipo ndi momwe jekete la Chanel linabadwira," Lagerfeld anafotokoza Lolemba pamene amamaliza kusonkhanitsa. "Mukuyang'ana Chanel m'zaka za makumi awiri ndi makumi atatu ndipo panalibe chotere."
Lagerfeld adachita masewero akutenga mitundu yatsopano ya jekete la Chanel - ndi blizzard ya majulati owuma ndi mabulawuzi - paziwonetsero zitatu zapanjira ku nyumba yachifumu ya Rococo Schloss Leopoldskron. Chiwonetserochi chinatengera zinthu zamtundu wa Tyrolean, zomwe zidakongoletsedwa ndi masiku ano, kupita kumayiko akunja.
"Zachita bwino kwambiri, momwe amasakaniza miyambo kuchokera kumalo enaake ndi mzimu wa Chanel," adatero wojambula Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey. "Pali mawonekedwe amtundu uliwonse wa mkazi."
Chiwonetserocho chisanachitike, ma VIP ndi akonzi adajambulitsa zithunzi za salon yayikuluyo yokhala ndi poyatsira moto ndi miyala ya nsangalabwi, makonde achitsulo chosanjidwa ndi bwalo loyang'anizana ndi nyanja yobiriwira yobiriwira. Utsi wamatabwa wochokera m'mundamo unadumphira m'chipindamo, ndikuwonjezera zokongoletsera zachisanu za matebulo odzaza makeke, malalanje odzaza ndi malalanje ndi zipatso zomwe zimakumbukira zojambula zazaka za m'ma 1700.
"Ndizokongola, komanso zatsatanetsatane," adadabwa Bergès-Frisbey, yemwe akukonzekera udindo wake wotsatira, monga Guinevere mu sewero la Guy Ritchie la "Knights of the Round Table."
"Tikuyamba kujambula mu February, makamaka ku England," adatero. "Ndizovuta kwambiri. Ndikukonzekera."
Wosewera waku Germany Mavie Hörbiger, yemwe amakhala ku Austria, adati kuwukira kwa Chanel kunali kosangalatsa: "Kukhala ndi mafashoni ku Salzburg sikwachilendo kwa anthu aku Austria."
Chiwonetsero cha Lagerfeld chinathandizira kuyatsa nyengo ya kugwa isanakwane ndi kutengeka kokongola kwambiri pa chic chodziletsa: Nyenyezi za Crystal zikuthwanima pa prim, cardigan ya minyanga mu ubweya wowiritsa; edelweiss okongoletsedwa pa leggings ya suede; ndi nthenga zosandulika kukhala zazikulu, zopindika manja pa malaya ochititsa chidwi opangidwa ndi nthenga, kugwedeza mutu ku falconry yochitidwa ndi akuluakulu a ku Austrian akale.
"Ndi zabwino kwa iye, sichoncho? Uwu ndiye wapafupi kwambiri womwe ungafike ku dirndl, "adatero Lagerfeld Lara Stone atavala chovala chakuda chakuda chakuda chokhala ndi kansalu kokhala ngati apuloni m'mphepete mwa ma ruffles. “Sindikufuna kuti chiwonekere ngati ‘Nyumba Yaing’ono pa Prairie.’” (Ngakhale kuti pambuyo pake chitsanzocho chikanatha kuwonedwa m’mundamo pa chizungulire chamatabwa choimitsidwa panthambi yamtengo, mwana wake wakhanda akulira ndi chisangalalo m’chifuwa chake. )
Panali mawilo ku ufumu wa Austro-Hungary, nayenso, Lagerfeld adanena, pamene zopangira zowonjezera za lace, ruffles, ndi riboni zinali à la mode.
“Ndimakonda mzimu,” anatero mlengiyo. "Sindikufuna kuchita kalikonse ka folkloric. Izi ndi zongopeka. Iyenera kukhala yamakono, iyenera kukhala yoyenera lero, kuchuluka kwake, chirichonse. "
Kunena zowona: Maluko a Heidi adakulungidwa m'makutu modabwitsa, pomwe ma breeche aja nthawi zambiri amatanthauziridwa ngati akabudula a denim, osokedwa ndi nsalu zotchingira.
Chiwonetserocho chinatsegulidwa ndi ma jekete angapo oyaka, ngati cape okhala ndi zomata zoluka kapena velvet. Lagerfeld adagwiritsanso ntchito zofananira zachikale pamasweti a turtleneck, madiresi aphwando, komanso zipewa zowoneka bwino zokhala ndi nthenga zachilendo.
Maonekedwe a Lagerfeld kupita ku Mitteleuropa anagwedezeka pakati pa nsonga zapanyumba - maluwa osongoka kuchokera pansaluyo atagubuduka pomwe matumba oluka a Chanel nthawi zambiri amakhala - kuti azitha kuyenda bwino, monga mathalauza owoneka bwino a flannel okhala ndi mikwingwirima yoluka ndi mikwingwirima yomata ndi golide kapena siliva.
Zovala zamadzulo zinali zachilendo, ndi agulugufe ndi nthenga zotsika pa chiffon chotumbululuka chabuluu, ndi manja odzitukumula abishopu omwe amawonjezera kukhudza kwachikondi kwa madiresi akuda a satin akuda okhala ndi ma voliyumu odetsedwa.
Pa uta wake, Lagerfeld adazula pretzel patebulo ndikumupereka kwa Cara Delevingne, yemwe adaluma ndikumukweza mmwamba ngati mpira atagunda.
Pafupifupi 220 mwamakasitomala abwino kwambiri a Chanel, kuphatikiza okulirapo ochokera ku Europe olankhula Chijeremani, adatsikira mumzinda wokongolawu, womwe ndi wamtengo wapatali chifukwa cha mbiri yake, malo okongola, zisudzo ndi nyumba zachifumu ngati Leopoldskron.
“Ndizokongola kwambiri. Ndi amodzi mwa malo omwe ndimakonda ku Europe. Ndimakonda munda. Ngati kulibe chifunga mutha kuwona mapiri, "adatero Lagerfeld. Iye adanena kuti zaka 26 zapitazo adawombera Chanel kampeni ndi chitsanzo Inès de la Fressange ku nyumba yachifumu, imodzi mwa nyumba yake yoyamba ku France.
“Ndinkabwera kuno nthaŵi zambiri,” anatero mlengiyo. “Ndinachita lendi ngakhale nyumba m’derali. Ndimakonda Salzburg, ndimakonda dera lino. "
Lolemba usiku, alendo adapita ku chakudya chamadzulo ku St. Peter Stiftskeller, omwe amati ndi malo odyera akale kwambiri ku Europe ndipo adalowa mnyumba ya amonke. Aliyense asanakonzekere chakudya cha magawo asanu ndi awiri omwe adatsegulidwa ndi tartare ya fawn, mbatata rösti ndi plum chutney, wopanga adawonetsa kanema wa mphindi zisanu ndi ziwiri wokhala ndi woyimba "Wodala" Pharrell Williams ngati mnyamata wokweza kwambiri komanso Delevingne ngati woyimba. kubadwanso kwa Mfumukazi Elizabeti waku Austria, yemwe amadziwika kuti Sissi.
"Kodi angakhale msungwana woti andithandize kuwona, kuwona (CC) dziko," Williams croons mu nyimbo yoyambirira yomwe adalemba ngati duet ndi wojambulayo, yemwe amasewera ndi nyimbo.
Zosangalatsa zapambali paulendowu wa Alpine zidaphatikizapo misika yotchuka ya Khrisimasi ku Salzburg ndi makonsati anyimbo opangidwa ndi mwana wamwamuna wotchuka kwambiri mumzindawu, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Alendo pa chiwonetsero cha mafashoni adatsala ndi chikwama cholembanso "Der Rosenkavalier," sewero lanthabwala la Richard Strauss lotengera libretto yoyambirira yachijeremani yolembedwa ndi Hugo von Hofmannsthal, limodzi ndi zomasulira zake m'Chingerezi komanso zojambula za Alfred Roller. za zovala ndi seti zomwe zidapangidwa mu 1910.
Kazembe wakale wa chikhalidwe, Lagerfeld adanyengereranso alendo kuti atengere zakudya zam'deralo, kuphatikiza Kaiserschmarren, chitumbuwa chophwanyika chotchedwa mfumu ya ku Austria Franz Joseph I, yemwe Williams adabadwanso mufilimu yomwe idatsagana ndi chiwonetserochi.
“Uyenera kulawa: Ndi chinthu chabwino kwambiri padziko lapansi,” anachonderera mlengiyo.
Zosonkhanitsa za Métiers d'art, zopindula zokhala ndi manambala awiri, zikuyimira gawo lomwe likukula mwachangu mu bizinesi ya Chanel lero, malinga ndi Bruno Pavlovsky, Purezidenti wa Chanel mafashoni.
"Pali zambiri, ndipo makasitomala athu amakonda malingaliro onsewa mozungulira mtundu," adatero. "Posachedwapa zikhala zofunika kwambiri ngati zosonkhanitsira za Okutobala kapena Marichi."
Adayambitsidwa mu 2002 kuti akweze akatswiri apadera omwe ali ndi Chanel, kuphatikiza katswiri waku Scottish cashmere Barrie ndi kampani yaku France ya tweed A.C.T. 3, yomwe kugula kwake kudavumbulutsidwa Lolemba, gulu lapachaka la Métiers d'arts tsopano likuthandizidwa ndi kampeni yodzipatulira yotsatsa - Salzburg imodzi iyenera kuwonetsa Delevingne ndi Williams - ndipo imatengedwa m'maboutique onse a kampani yaku France 189, komanso pafupifupi 100 sankhani masitolo apadera.
Pakugulitsa kwamphepo, Pavlovsky adanenanso kuti kubweretsa koyambirira - pakati pa Meyi kupita ku America koyamba, kutsatiridwa ndi Europe kenako Asia pofika pakati pa Juni - ndi nkhani yamphamvu kumbuyo kwa zosonkhanitsazo, iliyonse ikubweretsa chaputala chatsopano pantchito yokongola ya dzina la nyumbayo. Chanel adapita ku Dallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh ndi Tokyo kukawonetsa mzere watsopano.
"Makasitomala athu, azolowera kuwona masilhouette atsopano ndi zachilendo m'boutique miyezi iwiri iliyonse," adatero Pavlovsky. "Nthawi zonse, pamakhala zambiri zonena za moyo wake - zenizeni komanso zongopeka. Izi ndikumanga Chanel ya mawa. "
Atafunsidwa m'chipinda chokhala ndi matabwa moyang'anizana ndi nyanja yomwe kale inali ofesi ya Max Reinhardt, wotsogolera zisudzo wodziwika komanso woyambitsa nawo Salzburg Festival, Pavlovsky adanenanso kuti okonzeka kuvala ndiye gulu lomwe likukula mwachangu kwambiri ku Chanel, ndikukonzanso. ndi mashopu okulirapo, onse opangidwa ndi wopanga mapulani a Peter Marino, akuyenera kutengera mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya mafashoni.
Chanel posachedwapa anasamutsa sitolo yake ya Vienna, malo ake a kunja kwa Austria, chifukwa cha izi, ndipo posachedwapa anachita zomwezo ku Hamburg ndi Frankfurt. Düsseldorf ali pafupi.
Ngakhale gulu la Métiers d'art lakankhira mitengo kumadera atsopano - malaya amatha kufika $25,000 mosavuta - Pavlovsky adanenanso kuti pali zinthu zotsika mtengo. "Si funso la mtengo, ndi zambiri za mtengo wazinthuzi," adatero.
Atafunsidwa ngati zosonkhanitsira za Métiers d'art - zomwe zimalimbikitsidwa ndi madera monga Russia, India, kapena Turkey - zimagwiranso ntchito m'misika imeneyi, Pavlovsky adayankha kuti: "Zowonadi, sitiyang'ana. Nkhani ya ku Dallas inali yamphamvu ku China ndi Japan monga momwe zinalili ku America. ”
Komabe, kupezeka kwa Lagerfeld ku Austria, nkhani zamasamba akutsogolo m'mapepala kuphatikiza Salzburger Nachtrichten ndi Kronen Zeitung, komanso chopereka chake cha Chanel ndikutsimikiza kukulitsa chikhalidwe cha derali.
Lagerfeld, yemwe adavala blazer panthawi yomwe amakhala, adatchula mawu am'mbuyomu: "Mibadwo imabwera ndikuchoka, koma lederhosen adzakhalapo nthawi zonse."
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