M'gulu latsopano la amuna la Fall/Zima 2020 J.W. Anderson: Amalemekeza Wojnarowicz ndi Rimbaud Paris
Chiwerengero cha mannequins chinakhala kutsogolo kwa J W Anderson pa Lachitatu nthawi ya nkhomaliro, amalonda okhala ndi mitu yophimbidwa ndi makatoni odulidwa pa nkhope ya Arthur Rimbaud. Kulemekeza osati kwa wolemba ndakatulo wa ku France komanso kwa David Wojnarowicz, wojambula zithunzi, wojambula, wotsutsa AIDS komanso gulu lachipembedzo la Lower East Side.
Ndipo kudzoza kwa chiwonetsero chowuziridwa ndi Anderson, mawu aposachedwa kwambiri opangidwa ndi wopanga m'modzi wotchuka kwambiri waku Britain. Kukhazikitsidwa mkati mwa Lafayette Zoyembekeza, maziko a luso la sitolo yayikulu kwambiri ku France, chiwonetserochi chinalinso chopereka ulemu kwa mphindi yamdima ku New York, pomwe Edzi idawononga anthu ammudzi.
Rimbaud anali kudzoza kwakukulu kwa Wojnarowicz yemwe adapanga chiwonetsero chonse cha zojambulajambula kuzungulira zithunzi za iye yekha atavala chigoba chomwecho cha ndakatulo, kuwombera zithunzizo mu daffy diners, malo oimika magalimoto osagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi mafakitale oyaka.
Zambiri mwazosonkhanitsazo zidapangidwa ndi malaya amtundu wamitundu yosiyanasiyana - silika wopindika, fupa lolimba la herring, jacquard wonyezimira kapena macheke aku Scottish - nthawi zambiri amamaliza ndi siginecha ya JW zomangira zagolide zomwe zimawoneka ngati zotchingira zazikazi. Maonekedwe a malaya ambiri akufanana ndi chikuto chotchuka cha buku la Wojnarowicz Weight of the Earth, pomwe amawonekera atakulungidwa mu bulangeti lalikulu pabedi.
Zomangira zazikulu zofananira zomwe zidamaliza akabudula oyera achi India kapena masilipi achikopa atawuni. Ngakhale lingaliro lolimba mtima la Anderson linali zoyera zoyera, zomalizidwa ndi mizere ya silika ya accordion. Kapena ma natty angapo majuzi okhala ndi khosi ndi mapewa odulidwa mu ngale zazikuluzikulu za faux.
Moyo wa ˝Davis unali kukambirana za zomwe zikuchitika ku America ndi dziko lapansi panthawiyo. Ndidawona kuti linali lingaliro la JW la kuwomba zinthu kapena kugwiritsa ntchito kudula katatu. Kuyang'ana momwe mumapangira zinthu zomwe zimakhala zokulirapo, ndipo m'malo mokhala ndi malaya 15 khalani ndi chovala chimodzi mwazinthu zingapo ndikuchikulitsa, mpaka chimamveka ngati chakhalapo. Monga nkhope ya Rimbaud. Nthawi zonse imakhalapo, ngati Marilyn Monroe, koma buku la ndakatulo lachinsinsi, ˝ anafotokoza Anderson.
Ngakhale ntchito ya Wojnarowicz yokhala ndi stencil inaphatikizidwa mumagulu akuluakulu a chunky pullovers kapena tote zophimba ubweya, zotsirizidwa ndi zithunzi zodulidwa za nyumba zoyaka moto.
˝David anali katswiri waluso kwambiri moti ankapanga zojambulajambula ndi zolemba zakale Banksy. David anali America pamene ankaona kuti kunali kutha kwa dziko, koma sikunali. Monga Rimbaud, komwe kuli chiyembekezo ngakhale kuli kolemera kwambiri, ˝ anatsutsa Anderson.
Imfa ya mnzake, Peter Hujar, kuchokera ku Edzi mu 1987 idatsogolera Wojnarowicz kulowa ndale zolimbikitsa kwambiri pamoyo wake ndi ntchito yake - komanso mndandanda wofunikira wamabuku ndi zolemba zamawu. Rimbaud anamwalira ndi khansa ya mafupa ali ndi zaka 35 mu 1891. Wojnarowicz adakwanitsa zaka 37, atamwalira ndi Edzi kunyumba kwawo ku Manhattan mu 1992.
J.W. Anderson Menswear Spring/Chilimwe 2020 Paris
Chikoka chawo, komabe, chimakhala ndi moyo mwanzeru kwambiri.