A.P.C. Kugwa/Zima 2014 Paris

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Wolemba Matthew Schneier

Mosiyana ndi zowonetsera zambiri zamafashoni, A.P.C.'s ali ndi mphamvu zaluso zomwe zikuchitika. Nyengo ino idayamba kuwonedwa mwalamulo pomwe mawu adamveka kuti kuwonjezera pa zomwe adayambitsa Jean Touitou amakamba nthawi zonse zakukonda kwake kwanyengo, Kanye West adzakhalapo kuti afotokoze za mgwirizano wake womwe ukupitilira ndi mtundu waku France. (Mphekesera zoti chibwenzi chake chidzakhalapo chinawonjezera chisangalalo koma chinatsimikizira kukhala chopanda maziko.) Chiyembekezo cha olankhula aŵiri osalongosoka a m’mafashoni amene analankhulapo chinali chochititsa chidwi. Pakhoza kukhala ntchito yachiwiri yopindulitsa pakupunthwa kulikonse pagawo la maphunziro.

Touitou analankhula poyamba. Walandira udindo wake ngati professor wamawonekedwe owoneka bwino, ndipo adilesi yake, yowonetsedwa ndi mitundu ingapo yapagulu la A.P.C.'s Fall, inali yosokoneza kukongola. Anayitanitsa mizimu ya amuna anayi omwe amawaona ngati ma paragon a mawonekedwe: Yves Saint Laurent (chifukwa cha kalembedwe kake pankhaniyi, osati zolemba zake), Marcel Proust, Kurt Cobain, ndi Marc Jacobs (masewera olimbitsa thupi asanayambe ntchito). Kukongola kwa Saint Laurentian kunali koyenera, kawonekedwe ka malaya ndi tayi, ngakhale kuti malaya amkati amawonetsa ulendo wake wa kumpoto kwa Africa. Touitou adalamulanso opanga magalasi owoneka bwino a YSL, Maison Bonnet, kuti apange masitayilo angapo ofanana amakona a A.P.C. Proust ankayimiridwa ndi malaya opangidwa ndi ubweya, ndipo Jacobs ndi Cobain, zipilala ziwiri za grunge, ma jeans ong'ambika ndi malaya a flannel omwe amavala momasuka. "Marc anali ndi kalembedwe kake asanakhale katswiri wa yoga," adatero Touitou. "Ndili ndi chikhumbokhumbo cha Marc. Ankawoneka ngati mphunzitsi wa semiology ku Princeton, New Jersey.” Ngakhale panali ma jeans apa, chimodzi mwazinthu zazikulu zomwe adatenga pawonetseroyi chinali lamulo la Touitou kuti asavale denim kupitilira tsiku limodzi mwa awiri aliwonse. "Ndikutcha uku kumenyera ufulu wanu kuti musavale jeans."

Kumadzulo atafika kuti alankhule, atavala malaya a Thom Browne omwe adawasintha podula manja ndi kolala, adatenga udindo wa wophunzira wodzichepetsa kwa pulofesa wa Touitou. "Ndili ndi maphunziro osowa kwambiri a mafashoni, chifukwa pamene ndinapita kwa Louise Wilson ndikupempha kupita ku Central Saint Martins, anandiuza kuti sindingathe kupita kusukulu," adauza khamulo. Pulofesa Wilson mwachiwonekere amadziwona kuti anali wotchuka kwambiri kuti asalembetse. "Choncho kwenikweni," West anapitiriza, "Ndinayenera kuphunzira za zovala kudzera mu Style.com ndi Tommy Ton ndi zoipa monga choncho."

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