Mawonekedwe a: Maison Margiela Wokonzeka Kuvala Kugwa/Zima 2020 Paris John Galliano adafufuza "mawonekedwe a Bourgeois" pamene akuyambitsa "Recicla," kuphatikizapo zidutswa za mpesa m'gulu lake.
"Mawonekedwe a bourgeois" adatenga malingaliro a John Galliano mochedwa, kuyambira ndi Maison Margiela Artisanal collection yomwe adawonetsa mu Januwale. Kuti akonzekere kuvala, adapitiliza kufufuzako ndi chisomo ndi mphamvu yabata.
Galliano adagwira ntchito kuchokera pazoyambira zodziwika bwino, kuyambira ndi mavalidwe a yunifolomu, kuphatikiza ma siginecha amayendedwe opumira - usodzi, kukwera maulendo, kuyenda panyanja - komanso mayunifolomu ochezera, monga chovala choyenera cha dona kapena bulawuti yolimba kapena bulawuti yolimba. chovala, choponyedwa pamapewa.
Mu podcast yake, adatchula njira yake ngati "yobwezeretsa," ndipo adati, "Ndimakonda lingaliro loti mwina ndiyambe kuzindikira kuti musangalale ndi manja awa." Zizindikiro zodziwika bwino, iye amasungabe, zimabwezeretsa kudzimva kuti ndinu okondedwa. Anatsegula ndi mndandanda wa zovala zakunja, malaya a "memory" omwe amatsitsidwa mpaka ku kolala ndi zoyang'ana zomwe zimamangiriridwa ku maziko ang'onoang'ono kapena mtundu umodzi wonyezimira, wochuluka wa manja ndi kolala ya khosi. Izi zinadutsa madiresi ovala muzitsulo, tulle yowonekera kapena chiffon pa "chovala choyambira" mu silika. Pambuyo pake, adawonetsa malaya ovala mokwanira bwino, ena amtundu wolimba ndipo ena, ophatikizana, ngati kuti mahafu a zovala ziwiri zosiyana.
Luso losayerekezeka la Galliano linali kuwonetsedwa kwathunthu m'mawonekedwe omwe adagwiritsa ntchito zomwe amachitcha "njira yopitilira patsogolo", ndipo ndizomwezo. Nthawi zina zimabweretsa maonekedwe odabwitsa koma othamanga okha; apa, zidutswazo zinkawoneka zoyenera kuti zisinthe ku moyo weniweni. M'malo mwake, chimenecho chinali chimodzi mwaulemerero wa chopereka ichi; pazovuta zonse za kudula, ndi kukonzanso ndi kumanganso, Galliano adapeza malingaliro okakamiza omasuka. Chimodzi mwazokopa zotonthoza zidachokera ku phale, kuphatikiza kokongola kwa mabuluu, masamba ndi malalanje, owuziridwa ndi zojambula za Edward Hopper.
Lingaliro la "kubwezeretsa" silinayambe ndi kutha ndi kupempha kwa Galliano kwa zizindikiro za bourgeois. M'malo mwake, zidatenga tanthauzo lenileni ndi zomwe adayambitsa "Recicla", zidutswa za mpesa zomwe iye ndi gulu lake adazipeza ndikuziphatikiza muzosonkhanitsa, nthawi zina ngati chinthu chimodzi, ndipo nthawi zina zimaphatikizidwa muzinthu zina, monga madiresi odulidwa otsegulidwa pa cashmere yakale. majuzi. Chidutswa chilichonse chokwera chidzabwera ndi chizindikiro chofotokozera zaka zake ndi chiyambi; kuti pamajasi a ubweya wofiyira amalembedwa, mwa zina: “Makope Ochepa: Chigawo Chapadera…Kale: Avenue de Clichy, Paris (kuna : rue Jules Vallès, Paris); Nthawi: Kumayambiriro kwa 1980.
Galliano adanenanso mu podcast yake kuti kukweza kotereku kumagwira ntchito ziwiri.
Choyamba, imatchulanso za kukumbatira koyambirira kwa Martin Margiela kwa zinthu zakale zomwe angatengenso m'magulu ake, ndipo ikunena za kufunikira kwa mafashoni kuti achepe, kwinaku "akupereka moyo wina." Pa wotchi ya Galliano, moyo wachiwiri wa mafashoni udawonetsa ndalama zachic.
Maison Margiela Wokonzeka Kuvala Spring / Chilimwe 2020 Paris