Thom Browne Wakonzeka Kuvala Kugwa/Zima 2020 Paris

M'gulu lake loyamba la amuna ndi akazi, Thom Browne Ready To Wear Fall/Zima 2020 Paris adayika amuna ndi akazi pamlingo wofanana, kuwagwirizanitsa kudzera muzosoka.

Ngati madzi omwe akukwera ku Balenciaga adasiya wina ali ndi chiwonongeko komanso achisoni, ndiye kuti chingalawa cha Thom Browne chinabwera kuti chipulumutse tsikulo ndi chisangalalo chonga mwana.

Pano pali kukhazikitsidwa: Kuwonetsa amuna ndi akazi panjira yothamangira pamodzi kwa nthawi yoyamba, wojambulayo amaika amuna kapena akazi mofanana - kwenikweni - mwanzeru, block heel Ghillie boots. Kunali kusuntha kwabwino.

Panalibenso azimayi ovala nsapato zachizungulire akuperekezedwa kuchokera mumsewu atakomoka. Panalibenso masiketi omangika ndi manja omangika omwe nthawi zina amawonetsa kusaona kwachikazi. M'malo mwake, akuyenda mumsewu wodabwitsa wa chipale chofewa, amafanana ndi ma seti ake ndi ake, ovala mofanana ndi masiketi, madiresi ndi ma suti oyenerera.

Koma, popeza onse amavala zotchinga zakuda pankhope zawo (zomangidwa ndi zikhomo zazing'ono zatsitsi, aliyense movutikira amamangiriridwa ndi siginecha ya Thom Browne wofiira, woyera ndi buluu), zinali zovuta kudziwa chomwe chinali, ndipo mfundo yake inali. Tithokoze Janelle Monáe (wakukhala kutsogolo), Billy Porter, Laverne Cox ndi ena ambiri ochita ma trailblazer, zilibe kanthu.

Kusewera ku nkhani, chitsanzo chilichonse chinkanyamula chikwama chachikopa chofanana ndi nyama. Panali 33 pamodzi mu zootopia ya Browne - giraffes, nkhuku, akalulu, abakha, apembere, ana a nkhosa ndi zina zambiri, ndipo zinali zosangalatsa kwambiri kuyesa kuzizindikira zonsezi. (Chingalawa chonsecho chinawonetsedwa pazovala zophatikizika, cheke, zenera ndi pinstripe bucolic-scene patchwork coats.)

"Ndinaganiza kuti ndisokoneze mizere pakati pa mwamuna ndi mkazi, ndikuwapangitsa kuti azivala zomwezo, munsalu zomwezo komanso molingana pamwamba ndi pansi," adatero Browne kumbuyo. “Tidayamba awiri-awiri muchombo cha Nowa, kenako tidalowa awiriawiri osakanikirana, chifukwa umo ndi momwe moyo uyenera kukhalira pano, anthu azitha kukhala ndi aliyense amene akufuna,” adaonjeza pofotokoza momwe chiwonetserochi chikuyendera mpaka kumapeto komwe zitsanzo anagwirana chanza ndi okondedwa osiyana.

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  Eli Bernard wa Magazini ya PnVFashionablymale 02 Ogasiti 2019 (Ya digito Yokha)

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  Ripp Baker wa Magazini ya PnV Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Ya digito Yokha)

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  Sean Daniels wa Magazini ya PnV Fashionablymale Magazine 01 May 2019 (Ya digito Yokha)

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  Andrew Biernat wa Magazini ya PnVFashionablymale 03 Okutobala 2019 (Ya digito Yokha)

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  Alex Sewall wa Magazini ya PnVFashionablymale 04 Jan/Feb 2020 (Yapakompyuta Yokha)

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  Nick Sandell wa Magazini ya PnVFashionablymale 07 Oct/Nov 2020 (Pakompyuta Yokha)

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  Chris Anderson wa Magazini ya PnVFashionablymale 06 Julayi 2020 (Pakompyuta Yokha)

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Zovalazo zinali pafupi ndi nthawi yosewera ndi Harris tweed wakuda ndi woyera, yemwe Browne adagwiritsa ntchito ngati chinsalu cha njira zake zapamwamba kwambiri zomangira, trompe l'oeil, patchwork ndi kusewera molingana.

Nyimbo zake zonse zosakanikirana ndi jenda zinali kuwonetsedwa, kuyambira ku nouveau prep (madiresi otuwa a mwana wokhala ndi mizeremizeremizeremizeremizere, ma jekete amatumba ndi malaya okhala ndi mizere ya silika ndi zoluka za argyle) mpaka nouveau dandy (mavalidwe a malaya a trompe l'oeil okhala ndi "anthu). ,” mosiyana ndi nkhandwe, mbala; malonda onse (zovala zamtundu wa imvi ndi zomangira zomwe zimavalidwa ndi masiketi okoma a bokosi); ndi LeBron baller (patchwork parka yokhala ndi m'mphepete mwake ndi zazifupi zofananira).

Thom Browne Menswear Spring/Chilimwe 2020 Paris

Ma jekete a cardigan ataliatali ndi masiketi otakata amawonjezera kusuntha kwa masilhouette olimba a Browne nthawi zina, komanso nsonga zapa halter ndi masiketi omangidwanso kuchokera ku mathalauza opangidwa, ma jekete ndi malaya kuyesa kuyesa. Zinamveka ngati genesis weniweni.