MAN Fall/Zima 2016 London

Rory Parnell-Mooney

Grace Wales Bonner

Charles Jeffrey

LONDON, JANUARY 8, 2016

ndi ALEXANDER FURY

Chofungatira cha talente cha amuna ku London MAN - mgwirizano pakati pa Lulu Kennedy's Fashion East initiative ndi Arcadia behemoth Topman kuti awonjeze anthu opambana amtsogolo - adakhazikitsidwa mu 2005. Ndipo nyenyezi zambiri zabadwa kuchokera pamenepo - makamaka, Craig Green ndi Jonathan Anderson.

Komabe, m’kaonekedwe kochulukirachulukira m’mafashoni masiku ano, mumadabwa kuti ana a mafashoni—monga gulu la anthu okonza zovala za MAN la Kennedy—angapangire chibowo, osasiyapo chisonkhezero. Yankho? Popereka china chosiyana: kusanyengerera, munthu wankhanza, kukoma komwe adapeza. Iwalani zotsatsa mamiliyoni ambiri, MAN ali ndi moxie.

Osachepera, zidachitika mu Fall 2016, pomwe okonza atatu adapereka malingaliro apadera paumuna wamasiku ano: anyamata akusukulu achikatolika ovala zovala zakuda adapaka mapewa ndi mbuye wamwambo wonyezimira waku West Indian yemwe adatsatiridwa ndi mwana wa kilabu ya East London mu Party Monster flatforms ndi miniskirt-up corduroy miniskirt. Zimatengera mitundu yonse kuti dziko la mafashoni lizizungulira.

MAN amachita monga choncho. Yang'anani kwa Anderson ndi Green, omwe mapangidwe awo akhudza mafashoni padziko lonse lapansi: Chongani chiwerengero cha ziwonetsero za amuna ndi akazi zokhala ndi maubwenzi (chizindikiro cha Green), kapena chiwerengero cha akazi omwe akukwera mumasewero a amuna (à la Anderson).

Kuphulika kwa nyengoyi kunali Grace Wales Bonner-ngakhale anali atalandira kale Mphotho ya British Fashion Award komanso kuwonetseredwa kwapadziko lonse, anali kubetcherana kotsimikizika yemwe momveka bwino sanapatuke pa njira yake yokhazikitsidwa. Njirayi ndi yachimuna chokongoletsedwa, makamaka ku West Indies; Wales Bonner adasanthula mitu yokhudzidwa ndi ku Africa mu ntchito yake yonse, yomwe, ngakhale yayifupi (anamaliza maphunziro ake ku London's Central Saint Martins pafupifupi miyezi 18 yapitayo), yakhala yochititsa chidwi. Potengeka ndi mbiri yakale - yolemera munkhani komanso wolemera - Wales Bonner mwiniwakeyo adanena kumbuyo kuti sanamve kuti sakumuona. Chifukwa chake kusanja kwa zaka za m'ma 1970 ndi 1870s, nyimbo za akapolo aku Africa-America, Bollywood, ndi Afrofuturists amisala, wopeka waku Nigeria waku Ireland Tunde Jegede akuimba zeze waku West Africa pomwe ma model akuyenda. Zitsanzozi zinkavalanso zosokera za Funkadelic wide-lapel, Victoriana crystal atavala ma tracksuit a silky, ndi malaya opindika m'chiuno, ngati madiresi a cotillion. Zachikazi? Wales Bonner adapambana. "Ndizokhudza kubweretsa kukongola ndi zokopa kwa amuna," adatero. Koma ndani akunena kuti sizingakhale zachimuna?

Ulusi umenewo—wofunsa mafunso unalandira malingaliro otukwana—ndiwo unagwirizanitsa MAN ménage à trois. Rory Parnell-Mooney anabwerera ku zaka zake zaunyamata pasukulu ya Katolika, akusindikiza mawu ngati "Nancy Boy" (nyimbo ya gulu la Placebo) kapena "Lapani" (palibe mphoto chifukwa cha chiyambi chake) pa zovala zomwe zinagwedezeka pachitsime- anakhazikitsa yunifolomu ya achinyamata othamangitsidwa: ma hoodies, malaya otayirira, sweatshirt, '90s nostalgia. Mosakayikira mwaziwonapo kale pafupi ndi malo ogulitsira pafupi ndi inu.

Mwina yunifolomuyo yasintha, komabe? Umu ndi momwe mudamvera ndi Charles Jeffrey, yemwe gulu lake la zigawenga zopyoza, zaufa, komanso zodukaduka zimasamala za makatoni. Anali omwe amavala masiketi komanso ma jekete opindika komanso opindika (Jeffrey adawatcha "amanjenje," masiketi awo amawonetsa ma tic ndi ma tugs omwe amakhala ndi nkhawa). Zinkawoneka zosokoneza. Nachi chinthu chanzeru: kumbuyo kwenikweni sikunali. Zovala, makamaka, zokhala ndi lamba wokwera kwambiri wa nthiti, mapewa odulidwa, kapena chigamba cha buckshot pointelle pachifuwa, sichiyenera kungokhala choyenera, komanso chidwi. Okonza onsewa ali. Konzekerani kukhudzidwa.

MAN Fall/Zima 2016 London

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