LONDON, JANUARY 9, 2016
ndi ALEXANDER FURY
"Chitonthozo ndi Chowopsya" unali mutu wa Christopher Shannon wa Fall. Mawu olemera kwambiri. Koma Shannon nthawi zonse amakhala m'modzi wokonda kusokoneza mapangidwe ake kuposa momwe amawonera. London ili ndi anthu ambiri oyeretsa zovala zapamsewu, zodumphira mumsewu - ena mwa iwo amakana monyodola kuvomereza chizindikirocho, kutengeka ndi mawu ofotokozera pamene akuyenera kuthera nthawi yopanga zovala zabwinoko, koma Shannon ndiye wamkulu kwambiri. Ndipo, ndikuganiza, zabwino kwambiri. Iye ndiye wolowa m'malo mwa Kim Jones, ndipo ziwonetsero zake zimakondana ndi mkangano womwewo pakati pa brash, machismo ogwira ntchito komanso mafashoni apamwamba.
Mpaka Kugwa kwa 2016. Chifukwa, ku Fall 2016, Shannon adawonetsa kudzera pakuyika osati panjira. Tikukhulupirira kuti chinali chinthu chimodzi chokha, monga chutzpah ya ziwonetsero za Shannon ikadaphonya kwambiri - ndipo, zinalidi lero. Chiwonetsero chake chinachitika mu Alison Jacques Gallery m'chigawo chapakati cha London, ndipo adalimbikitsidwa ndi mgwirizano waposachedwa ndi wojambula Linder Sterling pazovala zamasewera ndi Northern Ballet Company. Ngakhale mawonekedwe awonetsero adakupatsirani nthawi yochulukirapo yosilira luso laukadaulo la Shannon, sizinali zofanana.
Pamene Shannon anasankha "chitonthozo ndi mantha" monga mutu ndi kudzoza kwa ulendowu, ankaganizira za midzi ya Liverpool, mzinda wa kumpoto kwa Chingerezi umene anakuliramo - chitonthozo cha kunyumba, koma mantha ogwidwa kumeneko. Nyumba zazitali zamatabwa zomwe zili pakatikati pa chiwonetserocho zidadzaza ndi mawindo a PVC. Amafanana ndi mafupa amatabwa opanda kanthu a nyumba yosanja, yomangidwa ndi kalembedwe ka Tudor ndi kampani yomanga yaku Britain ya Barratt. Amenewo amamera m’malo obiriŵira ndi okondweretsa kudera lonse la kumpoto kwa England—chitonthozo, ndi chochititsa mantha.
Malo okhalamo amakhala anthu wamba - omwenso ali pamizu ya zovala za Shannon. Osati kwa nyengo ino yokha, ngakhale kutuluka kumeneku kunali kokopa makamaka poyamikira kukopa kosadziwika kwa ma poplin aamuna a boxer-short poplins amtundu wa maswiti ndi macheke; ma jekete okhala ndi hood odulidwa ndi mathalauza odulidwa odulidwa pakati pa seams; ndi ma medalioni ndi ndolo zagolidi zomwe zinali zionetsero zokometsera za misampha ya chuma.
Zovala zanzeru kwambiri za Shannon ndizosavuta kumvetsetsa. "Ndimaganizira za anyamata omwe adapita kokacheza ndi ondisamalira," adatero, Shannon ndi gulu lachiwiri latsiku lolankhula za ngwazi zabuluu. Simufunikanso zakuya zakumbuyo, kapena kuti mudayendera madera aku Liverpudlian, kuti mukhale ndi malingaliro opotoka a moyo wamtawuni yaying'ono (ndipo, kukhumudwa kwachinyamata) kuchokera pazovala zake. Iwo anawombera pa pastel pastel palette, zomwe zimakumbutsa maunyolo ambiri a masewera a Esprit ndi Benetton mu zigamba, onyenga amphepo ndi ma sweatshirt ndi maonekedwe a varsity.
Awanso ndi ma tropes omwe Shannon adapereka mobwerezabwereza, kusinthidwa ndikulingaliranso nyengo iliyonse, ukonde wolumikizana mwamphamvu wa zovala zomwe zimawoneka ngati zosinthika mosalekeza kudzera m'malingaliro ake a chonde. Zinali zosangalatsa kusiya mpikisano wa makoswe ndikusilira ntchito yake yokhazikika pa Fall-ndipo zidakhala ngati Shannon adzithamangitsa pakuchita izi. Koma wina akuyembekeza kuti mayendedwe a Shannon abwereranso kumayendedwe aku London ku Spring: mzindawu mosakayikira umapindula ndi mphamvu zake, ndipo amawona kuti ndi imodzi mwazabwino kwambiri.