LONDON, JANUARY 10, 2016
ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Zovala za James Long ndizokoma zomwe wapeza. Pali amuna pakati pa abale ake omwe amamukonda Lurexes ake, ma denim ake opaka utoto, malaya ake okongoletsedwa ndi akambuku. Nkhanga zamtunduwu sizimangokhalira makasitomala okhulupirika a Long koma kudzoza kwake kwa Fall 2016. "Akatswiri am'deralo," adawatcha, kutchula anthu ngati Eddie Peake, yemwe ntchito yake nthawi zambiri imaphatikizapo mitundu yonyezimira, mawu omveka bwino a scatological, ndi maliseche ambiri. -adachita masewera amaliseche a mpira wamaliseche pamene amaphunzira ku Royal Academy. Mwachiwonekere, atavala, Peake amavala Long. Kulalikira kwa otembenuka mtima? Ndiyeno ena.
"Pamene pali mafashoni ambiri, ndinaganiza zoyang'ana anthu omwe amavaladi zovala zanga," anatero Long, pambuyo pa perete yomwe, malingana ndi malingaliro anu, inali yodabwitsa, kapena yosangalala; mokweza, kapena wapamwamba. Panali ulusi wambiri wachitsulo, ndi zingwe, ndi nsomba, ndi milu yayikulu yamtundu wa psychotropic ngati trippy ngati ma opiate poppies omwe amakula ngati ma prints ndi ma intarsias. Zomangira lamba zimazungulira kukhala maluwa amitundu itatu. Tsitsi linapakidwa mafuta kumbuyo, maso atapakidwa ndi kunyezimira, nsapato za Christian Louboutin zokwera ng'ombe zinali zamitundumitundu zonyezimira. Zinali, ndizomveka kunena, zonse.
Mitu ya ntchito ya Peake-yopanda pake pokumana ndi zonyansa-akumva ngati adakumana ndi machesi awo ku Long. Mu chikhalidwe chofala cha kupatukana, kuvala kwa chidutswa chimodzi, mudakonda kuwona ntchito ya Long ngati "mawonekedwe," koma ngati munthu payekha, zinthu zopangidwa mwaluso zomwe zitha kuchotsedwa ku mphamvu zonse kuti zigwire ntchito mu zovala za a. munthu yemwe si m'gulu la anthu okonda kupanga (nthawi zambiri East London) mafani.
Koma kodi mungavutike? Nkhani yokongola ngati ya Long ndikuti imatha kukhala yosokoneza komanso yotalikirana ndi munthu wamba. Kodi mungayime pang'ono kuti muyang'ane panjanji ya jekete za jean zokutidwa ndi utoto wonyezimira ndi zofiira kuti mupeze jekete ya velvet tuxedo kapena, mwina thalauza lowonda, losavulaza? Kapena ingolunjika kwinakwake kosavuta kugaya?
Long ndi m'modzi mwa opanga zovala zachimuna. Ndiye mutu watsopano wa zovala zachimuna ku Iceberg ya ku Italy, yemwe zizindikiro zake zachisokonezo ndi zokongola zimamukwanira bwino. “Sindinafune kubwereza ndekha,” anatero Long. "Uku kunali kukonza zinthu zazikulu zomwe ndimakonda." Nthawi zambiri amakonda zinthu zambiri. Kusintha pang'ono, modabwitsa, kukanapita kutali.