LONDON, JANUARY 11, 2016
ndi NICK REEMSEN
"Sitikufuna kusintha," atero director director a Dunhill, a John Ray, madzulo ano. “Munthu wina akasiya kuchita zimene ukudziwa kuti n’zoyenera, ndikuganiza kuti amuna . . . kukhala wokwiya pang'ono." Mawu owona, makamaka kwa odziwa masitayelo, sanalankhulidwe konse. Ndipo ku Dunhill, nkhaniyo ndi imodzi mwachisinthiko chaching'ono kusiyana ndi kusintha-palibe kusintha pano.
Kwa Fall, Ray ndi kampani adagawa zosonkhanitsirazo kukhala mizati isanu, iliyonse idapatsidwa dzina: Country Weekend, Blazers, Formal Attire, Eveningwear, ndi china chake chotchedwa Motorities (zambiri pa izi mumphindikati). Loweruka ndi Lamlungu la Dziko linali losaiwalika kwambiri chifukwa, ngakhale linkasunga miyambo yonse ya kavalidwe kachingerezi (tweeds, Shetlands, ndi chipinda chodzaza ndi zithunzi za haunds pafupi ndi zitsanzo za Eton-esque, ngakhale bulldog ya antchito akugwira ntchito ngati prop), idatembenukiranso kumayendedwe apamwamba: Mapewa ovala ma jekete anali "achilengedwe" komanso "owoneka ngati ma cardigan." Kuonjezera apo, anamasuliridwa mumitundu yambirimbiri ya cashmere ndi alpaca, opangidwa mwaluso kutengera (ndi kufewetsa) “nsalu zonyazitsa zachingerezi.”
Magalimoto, makamaka gawo la zovala zakunja, analinso amphamvu, ngati zotheka. Zinali m'zinthu zosawoneka zomwe Ray adawala, monga kansalu ka cashmere mkati mwa chovala chamoto chambuzi. Ma Tuxedos anali osiyanasiyana, kuchokera ku tayi yakuda yakuda kupita ku jekete ya shawl mu velvet ya "salmon", yowoneka ngati yokalamba pang'ono (ichi chinali chidutswa chokha chomwe chinalembedwa ngati chosakhazikika). Zonse, komabe, makamaka zikawoneka pamodzi, zotsatira za Dunhill zinali zokongola, ndipo amuna ozama kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi adzazilakalaka.