LONDON, JANUARY 11, 2016
by LUKA LEITCH
Kodi pali woyimba aliyense amene amavala amuna kuposa David Bowie? Ayi ndithu: Bizinesi ya zovala zachimuna imayenera kumulipira malipiro. Pawonetsero wamasiku ano wa Burberry, woyamba wofunikira kuyambira pomwe nkhani zidamveka m'mawa uno wakufa kwa Bowie, nyumbayo idapereka ulemu kwa onse omwe adayambitsanso mokondwa kwambiri. Chiwonetserocho chisanachitike komanso chitatha, nyimbo zake zinkasewera. Ndipo wojambula zodzoladzola Wendy Rowe anapaka utoto wonyezimira wonyezimira pamasaya a zitsanzozo.
Backstage, Christopher Bailey adati chikoka cha Bowie chinali: "Chachikulu ndikukula. Anali nyimbo yomwe ndinalimbikitsidwa nayo ndili mwana. Iye anakusonyezani inu njira zosiyanasiyana za moyo, kufotokoza umunthu wanu, mu nyimbo zake ndi mafashoni. Ndipo apo panali momwe iye ankakhalira moyo wake; panali mbali yachinsinsi kwa iye ndi mbali yonyada kwambiri. Anakhudza kwambiri anthu ambiri, inenso. Osati dzulo koma dzulo lake tinali kuyang'ana chithunzi cha Bowie atavala trenchcoat Burberry mu '60s. Ife timangolankhula kwenikweni za chikoka chake. Ndiyeno, mmawa uno. . . ndi zomvetsa chisoni kwambiri.”
Mark Ronson anali m'gulu la anthu otchuka: "Starman" akusewera pa PA, tidafunsa malingaliro ake. Iye anati: “Kwenikweni ndinali ndi mnzanga ameneyu, yemwe anamwalira zaka zisanu ndi chimodzi—osakwana zisanu ndi zinayi—zaka zapitazo tsopano. Ndipo tidasewera 'Starman' pamaliro ake. Izo ziribe kanthu kochita ndi chirichonse chimene mwangondifunsa ine, koma ine ndinangoganiza za izo. Inde, zimamveka zachilendo kukhala pawonetsero wa mafashoni. N'kutheka kuti iye amakhudza kwambiri aliyense—mochuluka kwambiri m'nyimbo, muzojambula, ndiponso m'mafashoni. Ndilibe njira yachidule yofotokozera. Ndizomvetsa chisoni. Koma ndiye, nyimbo zake zidzakhudza mibadwo yambiri. Zakhudza kale mibadwo itatu—yake, yanga, mpaka ina—ndipo ndikukhulupirira kuti zidzakhala choncho kwa zaka mazana ambiri.”
Kotero Bowie anali wochuluka kwambiri m'chipindamo. Ndipo ngakhale kuti zinali zodabwitsa kukhala pawonetsero wa mafashoni, zinkawoneka ngati zosayenera. Zoyenera. Pansi pa Bowie, zosonkhanitsira izi zinali zodziwika pakuzama kwake komanso (zowoneka) kuphweka: Kutengera ndi momwe mumaonera, mwina chinali chosonkhanitsira chopanda lingaliro kapena chosonkhanitsa chomwe lingaliro lake linali lophatikiza zonse kotero kuti limatsutsana ndi gululo.
Nyama ndi mbatata zake, mwachidule, zinali zovala zakunja. Pafupifupi mitundu yonse. Ndipo-kudzera muzosungira zakale za Burberry-zotengedwa kuchokera ku mpesa uliwonse. Mu 1856, chaka chomwe Burberry idakhazikitsidwa, Mfumukazi Victoria adawona zowunikiranso zankhondo pomwe mazana mazana ankhondo zapamadzi zomwe zinali zazikulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi panthawiyo - kuchokera ku ma ironclads kupita ku mabwato owombera mfuti - zidadutsamo kuti asankhe. Chiwonetserochi chinali chowunikiranso zovala zakunja za Burberry: Flotilla inali ndi malaya owoneka bwino onyezimira, malaya apamwamba, zipewa zankhondo, malaya angapo owoneka bwino, Arctic parkas, mapaki a fishtail, ngalande zingapo - oyendetsa, oponya mabomba, mabulawuni, ma piumino, ubweya, ma aviator ometa m'mbuyo, ndi ma jekete ochepa okonzedwa bwino. Chidutswa chachikulu, komabe, chinkawoneka ngati nsonga yapamwamba-nthawi zina yokhala ndi zipi, nthawi zina yodzaza-yomwe idagwiritsidwa ntchito kamodzi kapena kawiri ngati zovala zakunja koma nthawi zambiri ngati chingwe cholumikizira pakati pa mitundu yonse ya malaya ovala pamwamba pawo. Wokhala ndi zipi yoyera, komanso wokhala ndi kolala yayitali yotayirira yomwe imalola chitetezo champhamvu komanso chokongola cha thupi, kusiyanasiyana kwa Burberry pa track top ya nayiloni kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 70s kumapereka malo opanda kanthu-omwe pambuyo pake adawoneka bwino muzojambula - zomwe zimayenera kuperekedwa. zovala pamwamba. Pokhapokha ngati pansi pa suite, mathalauza nthawi zambiri anali osakanizidwa ankhondo, opapatiza komanso opepuka, nthawi zambiri okhala ndi okwera pamahatchi amawalira mwendo. Izi zinkavala pamwamba pa nsapato zakuda, zosavuta zokhala ndi tinthu tating'onoting'ono ta mphira pa chala ndi zitsulo zokhala ndi thovu losaoneka bwino, kapena zopota.
Ngati panali mutu wogwirizanitsa, unali Kugwirizanitsa. November watha Burberry adalengeza kuti 2016 ndi chaka chomwe amaphatikiza mizere yake yonse - Prorsum, London, ndi Brit. “Chinachake chakale, china chatsopano, china chobwereka, china chabuluu,” anali mawu amene analembedwa m’manyuzipepala. Apa njira zachikhalidwe zaukwati wabwino zidakwaniritsidwa ndi malaya osungira zakale, chikwama chatsopano cha satchel, nsonga zama track, ndi malaya abuluu, wonyezimira wofiyira motsatana. "Ndi kuyimira chinachake ndi kunyadira kuti ndinu ndani," anatero Bailey, "kunena kuti uwu ndi umunthu wanu, ndi zonse zikugwira ntchito limodzi m'dziko lomwe likusintha kwambiri."