MILAN, JANUARY 17, 2016
by LUKA LEITCH
Ku Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier wakhala akutsogola pakuphatikizika kwamitundu yonse yamagulu othamanga m'magulu apamwamba kwambiri. Koma mathalauza a cashmere tsopano ndi khumi-ndalama. Chifukwa chake mgululi Maier adakankhira mtsogolo-ndipo nthawi imodzi mmwamba ndi pansi. Iye anati: “Ndi za silhouette. Ndinaona kuti pakufunika kusintha. Zinthu zonse zokongoletsedwa ndi masewera zomwe takhala tikuyikamo: Yakwana nthawi yoti tipitirire. Zikukhala chizolowezi, anthu ambiri akuchita izi, sindiyenera kuchita mpaka kalekale. ”
Kukana kwapang'onopang'ono kwa mgwirizano kumeneku kunamveketsedwa bwino potsegula zovala zakuda kapena zotuwa zakuda, ndi chipale chofewa cha malaya oyera. Majeketewo anadulidwa pang'onopang'ono ndipo sanatulutsidwe, kuti aziyenderera mpaka pansi pa matako. Mathalauza pansi pake sanali opapatiza kapena otambasuka: Anali aatali. Kupuma pang'ono pachibowo, pang'ono kwambiri, kudakhala ngati njira yobisika ya silhouette yowoneka bwino iyi. Komabe, ma sutiwo adabwera, opangidwa ndi masilafu opapatiza.
Kodi chikopacho chinali kuti? Idafika kudzera pa tote ya matte zip mu rasipiberi wakucha, barolo wofiira wokhala ndi parka yayikulu yachikopa yakuda. Kenako kudzera mwa authoritarian chikopa greatcoat incongruously accented ndi cravat zopotoka. Chofiyiracho, kuphatikiza buluu wodzaza ndi wobiriwira wa botolo lavinyo zidatsimikiziridwa kuti ndizofunika kwambiri pankhani yamtundu wamtundu wamtunduwu mumajasi ndi mathalauza achikopa opangidwa ndi zipi kutsogolo kwa mwendo uliwonse kuyambira pamwamba mpaka pansi. Zovala ziwiri za cellophane zomangika zachikopa zonyezimira ndi kuwala. Ubweya wolemera wowoneka bwino wokhala ndi fuzz - Cheviot, wokonda ubweya pafupi ndi ine, adachitapo kanthu - anali achikasu ndi akuda. Suti ya cashmere mu loden wobiriwira idapakidwa utoto kuti ulemeretse mtundu wake mozama. Amuna aŵiri aamuna ndi aakazi mmodzi anavala masuti atatu a velveti—a azitona, amtundu wa turquoise wa teal-touch, ndi wofiirira—omwe mtundu wawo unkalimbana ndi mthunzi wakuda wa dzuŵa lolowa. Panali maonekedwe ambiri achikazi chifukwa cha kukonkha kwa zinthu zowonjezera zochokera ku Pre-Fall. Majekete a cheke osasunthika ndi zingwe zokhala ndi makola adawonetsa kubwera kwa malaya awiri okhomeredwa ndi singano omwe anali omangika opanda msoko amakona akumanja olumikizana mofewa. Kugogomezera kwenikweni kwa zosonkhanitsazo kunali koyimirira. Muyenera kukhala wamtali ndi wotsamira kuti muvale masuti amenewo mpaka pamlingo waukulu; mukatero mudzawoneka wamtali komanso wowonda. Anthu amfupi timatha kungoyang'ana ndikusirira - kenako ndikugula kabani.