MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Mitu yamagulu a Giorgio Armani sizinthu zochititsa chidwi, zophimbidwa ndi zachinsinsi zomwe opanga ena amakonda. "Mpaka Patsiku," adatcha chiwonetsero chake cha kugwa kwa amuna cha 2016 cha Emporio Armani. Kodi sizomwe mafashoni ayenera kukhala nthawi zonse?
Ndipo kodi sizimawonetsa kalembedwe ka Bambo Armani? Chifukwa, ngakhale titha kuganiza za Armani ngati munthu wamwambo wakufa wokhazikika pa amuna omwe amayamwitsa pawiri kuti azitha kukonza zozolowera, zotsatira zake zadziwika ndi masiku ano. M'zaka za m'ma 70s adapanganso suti yodzaza ndi chinsalu kukhala chinthu chaulere, chomasuka komanso chamakono. Imakhalabe imodzi mwazinthu zofunika kwambiri pakusoka kwachimuna kwamakono, kumachotsa kapangidwe kazinthuzo ndikuzipanga kukhala zoyenera mosiyana, m'malo mongocheza ndi ma hemlines.
Armani adapangitsa kuti Emporio wake aziwoneka waposachedwa pano popereka mwayi womasuka, kachiwiri. Anapanga denimu, kudula mowolowa manja koma osati m'lifupi; kwambiri, iye anamasulira ethos ya zochita ndi kuphweka kotero kunyengerera mu jeans blue mu mbali zosiyanasiyana za chosonkhanitsa ichi. Panali mbali yaukadaulo, yolumikizana ndi tweed ndi chikopa, kujambula ndi mapanelo owunikira. Armani anatsegula ndi thalauza la skiwear, zojambula za aluminiyamu zonyezimira pansi pa zoluka zowongoka ndi magalasi agalasi, zomwe zimakhazikitsa chisangalalo, ngati sichokongola kwenikweni.
Kawonekedwe ndi mitundu ya zovala zamasewera zidakhudza gulu lonselo, kudzera muzosoka za Prince of Wales, ma tuxedo amadzulo a velvet, ndi zovala zamasana zokhala ndi makola a Nehru zokhala ndi zida zankhondo. Phale la Emporio, Armani adati, linali lachilengedwe - koma kwa ine, limawoneka lozizira kwambiri, laukadaulo kwambiri: kuchuluka kwa ma skyscrapers ndi ma kiyibodi apakompyuta, mitundu yabuluu ndi zowonera zobiriwira za zowonera ndi ma laser. Hackneyed, koma zinali ndi zotsatira.
Nthawi zina, kufuna kwa Armani kukonzanso kumatha kusokoneza omvera ake, ngakhale makasitomala ake nthawi zonse amawoneka kuti amatha kuyang'ana njanji ndikutulutsa china chake chomwe chimamveka chogwirizana pamoyo watsiku ndi tsiku. Kuphweka osati kungovala chosonkhanitsa ichi, koma kuchiyang'ana - ndikuchigwirizanitsa ndi moyo watsiku ndi tsiku wa munthu aliyense - kunali kunyamuka kosangalatsa. Ndipo chizindikiro china chilichonse ku Milan chikadakhala ndi zobvala "zenizeni" (ndipo nthawi zambiri amapereka china chilichonse), zopereka zenizeni za Armani zidamveka ngati zaposachedwa.