MILAN, JANUARY 18, 2016
by LUKA LEITCH
Tinayamba ndi chithunzithunzi chamtengo wapatali, chochititsa chidwi, chozama cha nkhalango ya chipale chofewa chowombera kuchokera kumalo a munthu wozungulira, chizungulire. Pa nyimbo, Björk Björk-ed, ndi kulimbikira kwake kwaulemerero kwa ethereal. Kodi tinali titatsala pang'ono kuchitira umboni za mtundu wina wa chipale chofewa cha Abruzzo tailoring yabwino kwambiri? Osati kwambiri. Uku kunali kulota kwanthawi yamasana, kuyerekezera kwa Alpine kuchokera pamalo otsika kupita kumtunda ndi kubwereranso - zonse musanabwerere kuseri kwa desiki yanu.
Zovalazo zinali zokongola, zosema pathupi, ndi chiuno chokwera kuti chitalike chonse. Tidayamba ndi gulu la imvi, koma jekeseni wa nsapato zoyenda m'malo mwa nsapato ya mzinda zidaloza kukwera kutsogolo. Mitunduyo inasintha—kuchoka kutawuni kupita ku zachilengedwe—kumakhala malo obiriwira obiriwira. Panali maubweya awiri odabwitsa a tinthu tating'onoting'ono tomwe timalumikizidwa mu herringbone. Munthu wathu anali wokwezeka, komabe amayang'anitsitsa machitidwe ake wamba. Panali mtundu wina wa ojambula ndi chipewa chobwerezabwereza cha Beuys-meets-Alpine chomwe chimanong'oneza za zilakolako zoponderezedwa zosonkhanitsa mphamvu.
Backstage Brendan Mullane adalongosola zigawo za sandblasting ndi overprinting, kuwonjezera ndi kuchotsa zomwe zidagwiritsidwa ntchito pa zovala izi kuti zibwereke zakuya kwawo kwa pentinto. Brioni idakhazikika pamachitidwe omwe adasinthika kwakanthawi, chigoba chosinthika chamunthu. Komabe Mullane amayesa malire amwambowu ndipo, m'mene amachitira izi, amapeza kuti akadali ndi madera ena omwe sanatchulidwepo.