Onani buku la Walter Van Beirendonck Menswear Spring/Chilimwe 2021 Paris
Walter Van Beirendonck anagwira ntchito ndi wophunzira wake wakale, Eli Effenberger wa ku Tokyo kuti apange kanema wabwino kwambiri wowonetsera ndi mbiri. Pre-Zooming, iye anati: "Ndinalimbikitsidwa ndi zomwe ma couturiers anachita nkhondo itatha, "Théâtre de la Mode." ... Chifukwa chake tinapanga zosonkhanitsazo pang'ono ndikuveka zidole zagolide, zopakapaka ndi chirichonse ... imeneyo inali njira yokha yomwe ine ndikanachitira izo panthawiyi. Chifukwa tikupangabe zovala zathu zomaliza, zomwe zidzakhale m'chipinda chowonetsera digito sabata yamawa. "Wopangayo adawonetsa zotolera zake muzojambula zazing'ono pazidole.
Monga Maria Grazia Chiuri ku Dior, malingaliro a van Beirendonck adapita ku Théâtre de la Mode, chiwonetsero choyendayenda pambuyo pa nkhondo yachiwiri yapadziko lonse yomwe ili ndi mannequins ang'onoang'ono atavala zolengedwa zopanga.
"Panthawiyo kunalinso kusowa kwa zinthu, ndipo opanga ku Paris sakanatha kugwira ntchito ndi mannequins wamba," adatero Van Beirendonck. “Chotero ndinatenga lingaliro limenelo monga poyambira. Tinapanga zinthu zonse m’kabuku kakang’ono.”
Atatha kunena kuti choperekacho chili ndi mutu wakuti Mirror, maumboni a shamanistic practice, ndipo ali ndi mapanelo a nsalu zowoneka bwino, ndidadzifunsa ngati Walter adapanga mawonekedwe onse. "Ayi, chifukwa ndidapanga mawonekedwe 22 ndipo onse amavala kwambiri," adatero. "Sindinkafuna kuchita chinthu chovuta kuvala."
Nsomba za ng'ombe zamizimu, zamitundu yosiyanasiyana zokhala ndi poliyesitala zowoneka bwino zimawoneka ngati zoyenererana ndi shaman, komanso zokonzekera bwino - nthawi iliyonse yomwe zingachitikenso mosavutikira - monga zidachitira zidutswa zopalasa njinga za animalia. Malingaliro owunikira ndi kupitilira apo adatchulidwa mumutu wake ndipo mapanelowo adayang'ananso ndalama zomwe zidachitika panthawiyi. Kuyang'ana zovala zomwe zimapangidwira pang'onopang'ono, zinali zokondweretsa kuzindikira mawonekedwe a scaled-up of drill and fringing.
Kwa okonza ambiri mu sipekitiramu, chosonkhanitsachi chikhoza kuwerengedwa molimba mtima. Komabe Van Beirendonck amakondedwa chifukwa cha kulimba mtima kosasinthasintha kotero kuti choperekachi chinawoneka choletsedwa. Monga momwe iye ananenera: “Kuchita chinthu chopambanitsa kukanakhala kochulukira. Kwa ine, ino ndi nthawi yoganizira zenizeni zenizeni. " Kuyang'ana pa zenizeni ndi njira yolondola yochitira zinthu pakali pano. Koma gawo lokhutiritsa la ntchito ya Van Beirendonck ndikuti zidutswa zake zimawoneka zokonzekera phwando ngakhale munthawi zovuta kwambiri.
Van Beirendonck adatcha choperekacho kuti "Galasi," chomwe chidabweretsa m'maganizo magalasi omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pamiyambo ya shaman. "Ilinso ngati khomo lolowera kudziko latsopano," adatero. "Ndinali ndi kumverera komwe kungagwirizane bwino ndi chikhalidwe chamasiku ano."
Zinatero. Panali maonekedwe 22, okhala ndi magalasi ochotsamo. Magalasi adapatsa pakiyo mawonekedwe owuma.
Van Beirendonck anali ndi pakati "zojambula zamatsenga" zowonekera pazidutswa ngati malaya a mesh. "Ndi zokambirana zonse za khungu zomwe zinkachitika, ndinkafuna kugwira ntchito ndi buluu ndi pinki - mitundu yambiri ya thupi," adatero.
Wopangayo adagwiritsa ntchito poliyesitala yochokera ku Japan popanga masuti, kupereka mawonekedwe owoneka bwino, akuthwa. Mosiyana ndi izi, zovala zakunja zowoneka bwino zidapangidwa ndi nayiloni yokhala ngati ubweya.
Zosonkhanitsazo zidafupikitsidwa, komabe zonse, ndikulola kuti dzanja lamanja la Van Beirendonck liwale.