Wolemba Joelle Diderich
Letisi. Bowa. Salimoni. Mgoza. Khofi. Mayonesi. Pichesi. Maula.
Mndandanda wogula? Ayi, mitundu ina yokhayo yomwe yatchulidwa muzolemba zowonetsera kugulu la masika la Dries Van Noten. Wodziwika chifukwa chogwiritsa ntchito ma opulent hues, wopanga nyengo ino adasankha phale losawoneka bwino lomwe kuphatikiza zomwe adazitcha "khungu lachilendo," khaki, chikasu chotumbululuka ndi buluu wopepuka.
"Ndiko kuphunzira za mtundu ndi kusindikiza komanso momwe zinthu ziwirizo zimakhudzira ma voliyumu, komanso momwe mumawonera silhouette ndi momwe mumawonera munthu yemwe wavala mitunduyo kapena kusindikiza," adatero wojambulayo muvidiyo yakumbuyo.
"Mtundu ndi amuna ndi [sic] sizikuyenda bwino nthawi zonse, kotero mwanjira imeneyi ndimafuna kuphunzira gulu lonse lamitundu yomwe siili yowala nthawi zonse," adawonjezera. “Iyi ndi njira yosiyana kwambiri yowonera mtundu. Zinali kuyenda kutali kwambiri ndi izo. "
Pokumbukiranso masewero ake aposachedwa onena za ma voliyumu okulirapo, Van Noten anajambula mithunzi ya pastel yokhala ndi ma toni olimba a dziko lapansi pamawonekedwe amasewera koma okhazikika. Ma blazer aatali, ma trenchcoat amalamba ndi malaya okhala ndi mabatani anali ndi tinge ya retro pang'ono, yokulitsidwa ndi ma tonal otsogola akale.
Pofika tsiku lolanga malo owonetsera ziwonetsero mu likulu la France lomwe lakhudzidwa ndi kutentha kwa mphepo, Van Noten adatenga alendo kuti akwere zipinda zisanu ndi zitatu pamwamba pa maofesi akale a nyuzipepala ya tsiku ndi tsiku ya Libération, pomwe makabati akale amafayilo adayimilira odzaza ndi zikwatu zotayidwa.
Malingaliro ake omenya kutentha? Zovala ndi zazifupi, ndi masokosi ndi nsapato osati zochepa. Ngakhale mavalidwe akuofesi amasulidwa, ndizomveka kunena kuti mawonekedwe awa sakusesa pa boardroom. Mashati amfupi - kuphatikiza ma silky prints ndi zokongoletsera - adawoneka ngati njira yolimbikitsira.
Momwemonso, kunyengerera amuna kuti atenge ena mwa mithunzi iyi - mpiru ndi terracotta komaliza anali ndi mphindi mu Nineties - kungakhale kutambasula. Koma iwo akhoza kugwedezeka ndi jekete la bomba kapena mvula yamkuntho yojambula pazithunzi za geometric. Ndipotu, Chinsinsi chabwino ndi funso la kuchuluka.