MILAN, JANUARY 16, 2016
by LUKA LEITCH
Malo apakati pa chilimwe ku Sicily amakhala ndi fumbi ndi kutentha kwambiri kotero kuti amafanana ndi mawonekedwe owuma a Spaghetti Westerns a Sergio Leone. Zomwe ananena, Stefano Gabbana adati, penapake pakati pa Palermo ndi Catania - ndizomwe zidathandizira kusonkhanitsa komwe masiku ano kuphatikizirapo malingaliro ambiri aku Western. Koma pamene owombera asanu ndi limodzi, cacti, ngolo, zipewa za ng'ombe, apakavalo, ndi lassos anali paliponse pa zovala, iwo sanali mu izo. Poncho yamphamvu yotsegulira yometa padera, panalibe aliyense wa Wild West - zenizeni - mitu ndi zipewa - zomwe tidawona nthawi yomaliza nyumba iyi idatembenukira kumapiri, kumapeto kwazaka za zana lazaka zomwe zidavala ndi Madonna mkati mwake. Kanema wa “Musandiuze”.
Chifukwa chake ngakhale a Morricone ndi chifunga chafumbi chomwe zitsanzo zomwe zidakwera pamsewu wonyamukira ndege, izi zinali zosonkhanitsira zomwe zimagwirizana ndi zomwe zikuchitika masiku ano a munthu wa Dolce & Gabbana. Panali munthu wina wantchito wa ku Sicilian yemwe anali wotentha kwambiri, yemwe nthawi yake inatha, anali atavala malaya aatali kwambiri komanso chipewa chathyathyathya. Panali okondedwa otukuka a zovala zapamwamba zamasiku ano zometa thukuta zokhala ndi mikanda yopatulika ya nyumbayo ndi nsapato za Velcro monk-strap zokhala ndi ubweya. Chomwe chinkapezekapo kwambiri chinali mtundu wakale wa playboy princeling wapadziko lonse, wokongoletsedwa bwino ndi malaya oyera amipope ndi masitayilo akuda omwe amanyezimira ndi okongoletsedwa kapena tonal jacquard. Pamapeto pake, okonzawo adawombera ma pijamas amasiku a silika, ena amalumikizana ndi zoluka: Mawonekedwe awa, akuti, akuyambitsanso ziwonetsero m'masitolo, nawonso.
Westernalia sinali zokometsera zokhazokha zomwe zidawazidwa pamndandandawu. Zovala zokongoletsedwa ndi malaya am'mwamba ndi ma jekete agalimoto - gawo la denim linali loyenera kudikirira - munalinso maluwa opindika ndi ma putti. Kulira kwatsopano kunali kachizindikiro kakang'ono ka njuchi pamatcheni agolide, zigamba, ndi zovala zogona. Panali mitundu yakumadzulo ya zithunzi zongopeka zochokera kwa opanga aposachedwa a zovala zachikazi za mamma-themed-imodzi, pa sweatshirt, yojambulidwa Domenico ndi Stefano-komanso zithunzi za meme-tastic za Zambia, mphaka wa Stefano. Panali zambiri zomwe zinkachitika apa-zitsanzozo zinkagwiritsa ntchito mapiritsi kuti ziwonetsere kanema wamtundu wamtunda wopita kumalo okwera pamwamba pathu, nawonso - kotero kuti kupyolera mu fumbi nthawi zina zinkamveka ngati zovala za amuna za peyote. Zilekanitseni, komabe, ndipo zomwe muli nazo ndi zina mwazovala zapamwamba kwambiri komanso zovala zakunja zakunja mubizinesi — kuphatikiza ma pijamas opangidwa ndi D&G (omwe tsopano akukhala gulu lawo).