Kukonzanso kukongola kwachifalansa kwa mibadwo yomwe ikukwera, Bruno Sialelli wojambula bwino kwambiri, akuphulika zojambula za Erté ndikuyika zowonjezera.
Opanga ambiri omwe akugwira ntchito yotsekeredwa adalandira kuthawa, kuphatikiza a Lanvin a Bruno Sialelli, yemwe njira yake yamafashoni inali yokwezeka, yophatikizidwa ndi kukongola. Kukonzanso kukongola kwachifalansa kwa mibadwo yatsopano, anakonza bwino kwambiri zachikale: suti zamawere awiri mu pastel wofewa, masilavu a silky ndi mabulauzi okhala ndi mapepala a Erté ophulika, madiresi a polka-dot ndi zovala zakunja zokhala ngati cape.
Anamaliza mawonekedwe ake ndi nduwira, magolovesi, magalasi adzuwa ndi zodzikongoletsera zagolide zodziwika bwino zokhala ndi maluwa osamveka bwino. O, ndi zikwama zam'manja. Chokokedwa kuchokera m'malo osungiramo zakale, chikwama cholimba cha pensulo ndichachidutswa chaluso - chokhala ndi chogwirira - chopangidwa ndi Armand-Albert Rateau kwa Jeanne Lanvin. Anatsitsimutsanso thumba la Shuga la pillowy kuchokera ku Aughts oyambirira.
Maonekedwe a amuna anali okwezeka mofanana, komanso amawonedwanso momveka bwino. Chovala chamtundu wa buluu chabuluu chinakhala malaya a V-khosi, opangidwa ndi mpango. Chovala chabulauni, cha suede chinakhala chamitundu iwiri, chonyezimira chachikasu pamakhafu ndi kolala, pomwe malaya opepuka a silika adamera hood ndi chiuno chokoka.
Wolemba positi wakumidzi dzina lake Ferdinand Cheval adakhala zaka 33 akupanga mawonekedwe odabwitsa a buku lowoneka bwino la Lanvin nyengo ino. Zooming, wopanga Bruno Sialelli adati adakopeka ndi Le Palais Idéal, pafupi ndi Lyon, mwina chifukwa anali asanakhaleko ndipo amafuna kuziwona, ndipo mwina chifukwa Cheval, yemwe adazipanga, "anali munthu yemwe samadziwa. za zomangamanga, amene anamanga nyumba yachifumu yodabwitsayi ndi dzanja, kusakaniza mu maumboni zachilendo kwambiri, ndipo ndi zosangalatsa kwambiri monga mlengi kulenga kuona izi. Chifukwa nthawi zina, momwe ndimagwirira ntchito, ndimasakaniza maumboni osati mwanzeru koma m'njira yophatikiza zinthu zomwe zimakupatsani zomwe mukufuna kunena. ”
Apa zomwe Sialelli ankafuna kuti alankhule nazo zinali zolimbikitsa zaka khumi zomwe nyumba ya Lanvin idayamba, m'ma 1920. Anathandizana ndi estate ya Art Deco illustrator Erté kuti aphatikizepo zina mwa zithunzi zake zokhazikika pamadindo a silika, zikwama, zipewa za nduwira, malaya achimuna, ndi chikopa cham'mphepete mwachikopa.
Kutulutsidwaku kunanena kuti mabatani adazunguliridwa kuti afanane ndi botolo lamafuta onunkhira a Lanvin omwe adapangidwa mu 1927. Pozungulira izi Sialelli adapanga maumboni ambiri, makanema ambiri, kuti apangitse gulu lokongola la zomwe adazitcha "moyo womwe ulibe chilichonse. Zambiri." Mwa izi amatanthawuza za mtundu wa kukoma kosasamala komwe kumakhala kosangalatsa komanso kuzindikira kuti kusakhale konyansa: "chifukwa tidzakhalanso opambana liti ndipo bwanji?"
Limenelo ndi funso loyenera, ndipo m’ma 1920 pali kufanana ndi kuphuka kwa Lanvin—chitsanzo cha kukongola kofulumira ndi kutsitsimuka pambuyo pa nkhondo ndi miliri. Sialelli akuyembekeza nthawi ikadzafika, zilakolako za anthu zidzayambiranso kulowera kwa Lanvin.
Lanvin Wokonzeka Kuvala Kugwa/Zima 2020 Paris