PARIS, JANUARY 21, 2016
ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Nyengo iliyonse, zikuwoneka kuti pali zosonkhanitsa khumi ndi ziwiri za Issey Miyake zomwe ife, atolankhani, sitiwona. Amasokoneza zikoka zomwe nthawi zambiri zimakhala zosaoneka bwino za mzere waukulu kukhala zosintha zabwino. Amapanga zokometsera zambiri, zomwe nthawi zambiri zimadziwika bwino, ndipo nthawi zambiri zimadzaza masitolo awo ambiri.
Itha kukhala ng'ombe yandalama, koma vuto ndi china chake chomwe chili ponseponse monga momwe Miyake amakondera - ndipo, kunena mosapita m'mbali, china chake chomwe chimatchulidwa pafupipafupi ndi opanga ena - ndikuti mumatopa. Monga mlengi komanso wopenyerera. Kotero, momwe mungayesere popanda kudzipatula? Kodi mungapereke bwanji china chatsopano popanda kutaya chidziwitso chanu? Ndilo vuto lomwe wopanga zovala za amuna a Issey Miyake Yusuke Takahashi amakumana nazo nyengo iliyonse.
Nthawi zambiri, Takahashi amapewa kuchonderera - chomwe ndi chisankho chanzeru. M'malo mwake, adapeza zovala zachimuna za m'nyumba mu teknoloji ya nsalu komanso kukhala kosavuta - chikhalidwe cha pleats, popanda kupindika. Kwa Fall, adatcha chiwonetserochi kuti Neonomad, gulu la udzu wa scrubland mozungulira msewu wonyamukira ndege womwe umapereka mawonekedwe achilendo. Zinamveka pang'ono spaghetti Western, makamaka motsutsana ndi zomangamanga za konkire za Palais de Tokyo, likulu la chikhalidwe cha anthu ku France lomwe lili ndi dzina louziridwa ndi Chijapani. Zikuyenda bwanji kale?
Zovala zenizenizo zidalimbikitsidwa ndi zikhalidwe zosiyanasiyana-chiwonetsero chachikale cha a Go roamin 'chiwonetsero chophatikiza zoluka za ku Mongolia, kukwera pamahatchi, madiresi ochepa ndi masiketi a amuna, ndi mathalauza a sarouel, shorthand wachilendo. Chidutswa cha "neo" chidabwera muukadaulo wazovala womwe tatchulawu, mu nsalu zoluka zahatchi zowoneka bwino za Takahashi zomwe zimafotokozedwa ngati zopanda makwinya, zokhazikika, zogwira ntchito, zopepuka, zotsuka, zopanda chitsulo. Zinthu zonse zomwe moyo wamakono wamakono ungafune kuvala - zovuta zapaulendo wamasiku ano, zomwe zimathetsedwa mwachangu.
Sindikutsimikiza kuti zikufotokozedwa mwachidule ndi jacquards of horseshoes (Azungu ambiri) omwe zithunzi zawo zimafanana ndi kukoma kwa Ettore Sottsass kapena zovala za '80s teen sitcom Zopulumutsidwa ndi Bell, kutengera kukhwima kwa diso. Ndinakhala ndi omaliza. Akabudula othamanga othamanga mu zoluka zazifupi analinso osamvetseka (kwa Fall, aliyense?). Koma wojambula zithunzi wa Kenji Hirasawa wochititsa chidwi wa thermochromic, wosindikizidwa molimba mtima pa zovala za Takahashi, sanawapatse malingaliro a psychotropic trippiness, komanso kumverera kwa munthu wamoyo pansi. Thupi lawo, ndithudi, komanso zosowa zawo, kudzera mu nsalu. Chimene chinali pamtima pa kukopa kodabwitsa kwa gululi.