Paul Smith Fall/Zima 2016 Paris

PARIS, JANUARY 24, 2016

by LUKA LEITCH

Sir Paul Smith nthawi zonse amaimitsidwa mumsewu wa ku London ndi kupitirira apo ndi amuna omwe amamuthokoza chifukwa cha masuti omwe anakwatira. ndi mpingo waukulu.

Ndicho chifukwa chake, pofuna kutha kutha, iye anafunikira kulinganiza utali ndi ndandanda ya maulaliki ake pang’ono—mwa kuphatikiza zisanu ndi ziŵiri za zosonkhanitsa zake za amuna ndi akazi kukhala ziŵiri. "Zomwe zachitika zakhala zabwino," adatero kumbuyo kwa siteji lero: "Takonzanso situdiyo yonse, ndipo takwera pang'ono."

Mwina ndichifukwa chakuti Smith tsopano akufinya malingaliro angapo omwe kale anali ofotokozedwa mosiyanasiyana - oyenerera, osasamala, komanso otsogola m'mafashoni - pansi pa mbendera imodzi, koma zosonkhanitsira masiku ano nthawi zina zimamveka movutikira kuwonera. Zinali chidwi cholimbikitsidwa chifukwa chakuti zitsanzozo zinabwera kwa inu kuchokera kumbali ziwiri nthawi imodzi, mpaka phokoso losakanikirana bwino, lomwe linali ngati MP3 player yodzaza bwino yomwe imayikidwa mwachisawawa pa hyper-speed-ngakhale "Step On" ndi Lolemba Losangalatsa ndi "Bwerani Pamodzi" ndi Beatles zimamveka bwino zikaseweredwa nthawi imodzi.

Komabe, polingalira kumbuyo kwa siteji, panali mgwirizano wopezeka m'machezawo. Zovala ndi mathalauza a Smith okhala ndi mikwingwirima yakutsogolo ya jacquard anali ndi oomph, ndipo malaya ake apamwamba amtundu wopapatiza wokhotakhota akumeta ubweya wonyezimira kwambiri. Maonekedwe a mathalauza amayambira pamoto wocheperako kupita ku mbewu zazitali (ndibwino kuwunikira boot). Panali zambiri zosokera zomwe zidasinthidwa ndi zip-ups zamitundu yowoneka bwino. Zovala za eccentric zinaphatikizapo ndondomeko yopindika ya misozi ya paisley pa suite ndi ma denim otsukidwa, ndi ma dinosaur otsegula mano pa malaya ndi zoluka. Monga kaŵirikaŵiri pa zovala zachimuna, zovalazo zimawoneka bwino mu nyumbayi kuposa momwe zimawonekera m'thupi: Maonekedwe apa anali oti mumangomva ngati munangoyang'ana nthawi yomweyo chinthu china chosiyana kwambiri chisanabwere. Ndi gripe yaing'ono, komabe. Sir Paul sasiya kutengeka ndi makasitomala okondwa mumsewu posachedwa.