PARIS, JANUARY 24, 2016
ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Nostalgia ndi chinthu champhamvu, monga momwe nyengo ino yatsimikizira. Ngati anthu sanali kutsutsa izo, iwo anali kulengeza izo monga kudzoza kwawo kwakukulu kotsatira. Kukumbukira zinthu zakale kumakhala ndi chikoka champhamvu cha mafashoni, pomwe zitsitsimutso zazaka makumi angapo zapitazi zimazungulira nthawi zonse m'magulu omwe akucheperachepera. Zodabwitsa ndizakuti, Yves Saint Laurent adakonda pang'ono Proust-pali mlandu wa Louis Vuitton wopangidwa mwapadera kuti unyamule mavoliyumu ake omwe akuwonetsedwa ku Grand Palais, pachiwonetsero chofotokoza mbiri yakale ya mtunduwo. Vuitton, ndikutanthauza; ngakhale pali nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale ya Saint Laurent yomwe ili pamwamba pa rue.
Mphamvu yokumbukira inali lingaliro lomwe Thom Browne adafufuza: Chiwonetsero chake chakugwa chinali, adatero, pafupifupi anyamata 13 omwe adayenderanso kalabu ya abambo awo zaka 30 zapitazo, mwina mwakuthupi, mosasamala. Chifukwa chake, chovala chilichonse chimawoneka mu triptych: woyamba mu nsanza; ndiye mlingo wopepuka wa kusautsika; potsiriza, pristine. Chilichonse chinali ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zovala zachimuna - malaya am'mbuyo, malaya ankhondo, ma chesterfields ometa ubweya - ndipo anali atavala chipewa chopindika kumaso modabwitsa. Sizinali njira ya kupasuka, koma kubadwanso, kubwerera ku ulemerero wakale. Poyamba, mitundu iwiri yamitundu iwiri idakwapula zobvala za kalabu ya anyamata akale, kuphatikiza chandelier, mipando yakumbuyo yamapiko, ndi mafelemu a ophika mkate khumi ndi awiri.
Ku À la Recherche du Temps Perdu, Proust amagwera mkwatulo chifukwa cha kukumbukira komwe kudachitika ndi madeleine wothira tiyi. Panali zakudya zambiri zofananira pawonetsero wa a Browne: zokumbukira mwachisawawa - malingaliro obwera mwangozi, koma omwe nthawi zambiri amakhala amphamvu. Pamene zitsanzozo zinatenga malo awo, choyambirira choyambirira chikuyang'anizana ndi awiri a "zopanda ungwiro", zinali zosavuta kuona mithunzi ya Dorian Gray-osati chifukwa cha mtundu wa ubweya wokonda kwambiri wa Browne. Zitsanzo zonyansazo zikhoza kukhala chithunzi chake chamafuta, chomwe chilakolako chake chaunyamata chimasonyeza kachitidwe ka mafashoni. Kodi tonsefe sitikukakamizika kuchitira umboni kuwola kwathu masiku ano? Ndipo si nthawi yomwe ngakhale olemera kwambiri sangagule? Sitingathe kuchibweza, ndithudi. Nthawi inali kutengeka kwa wojambula René Magritte, ndipo panali zomveka mosakayikira za ntchito yake mu zipewa za masking bowler, kubwerezabwereza, mafelemu opanda kanthu.
Nthawi ndi chinthu chomwe opanga nthawi zambiri amachiwona ngati chinthu chamtengo wapatali, makamaka m'zaka zingapo zapitazi, pamene chakhala chamtengo wapatali. Zinatenga nthawi yochuluka kupanga zovala izi, zomwe zinali zamtengo wapatali mosakayika. Zina mwa zigamba, zovutitsa, ndi kuvala mwadala ndikung'ambika mosakayikira kunapangitsa opanda ungwiro kukhala olimbikira ntchito-angwiro-kuposa zovala zopanda chilema. "Nthawi zina zimakhala zokongola kwambiri," adatero Browne, wa ngale zomasuka zomwe zimakongoletsedwa ndi kape kakang'ono ndi jeti yokongoletsedwa ndi tailcoat.
Munakumbukiranso maulendo akale akale, pamene okonza amapitadi kukawonetsa chiwonetsero, kuti adzutse nkhani pazovala zawo. Palibe ambiri otsala a sukulu yakale imeneyo. Mwina nthawi zasintha; kapena mwina opanga sakhala ndi zambiri zoti anene, kapena nthawi yoti anene, munjira yofulumira yanjira yamakono. Thom Browne amapanga chiwonetsero panyengo iliyonse ya zovala za amuna; akuwonetsa zosonkhanitsa za Pre-Fall ndikuwonetsa zovala zazimayi pasanathe milungu iwiri. Mosakayikira nthawi ili m’maganizo mwake.
Mafashoni abwino amatha kuyankhula pamagulu ambiri. Kuthamanga pa Oscar Wilde ndi Proust ndi Browne akhoza kuphethira mosabisa (anandichitira ine). Pachiyambi chake, chiwonetserochi chinalinso chokhudza njira yowonetsera zovala zokopa, zopangidwa mwaluso, koma ndi tanthauzo lobisika lophatikizidwa mumsoko uliwonse. Chimodzi mwazovuta kwambiri, mukamakumbukira ziwonetsero zamafashoni zakale.