Virgil Abloh adakhala pagulu lamasewera komanso lazany lodzaza ndi chidwi ngati chamwana pamawonekedwe ake oyamba osakanikirana.
Virgil Abloh akupereka malo oyamba oyimira #LouisVuitton ulendo wake weniweni komanso weniweni padziko lonse lapansi. Kuchokera kunyumba ya makolo a Maison kunja kwa Paris, gulu lamitundumitundu la anthu otengeka ayenda ngati njira zonyamulira zotengera zotengerazo mpaka kukafika kumadoko a Shanghai.
"Zowonadi, zili ngati kundilembera ine ndi gulu la anzanga," adatero Virgil Abloh poyimba foni kuchokera ku Chicago dzulo, patsogolo pa chiwonetsero cha abambo cha Louis Vuitton chomwe chinachitika padoko ku Shanghai lero.
Abloh amakambilana zamaganizidwe amitundu yambiri omwe amalumikizidwa muzinthu ndi zophiphiritsa, komanso onse akuda-opanga makanema, oimba, ndi stylist Ibrahim Kamara - omwe adawabweretsa atakhala kwaokha, kuyankha kwake pazomwe adafotokoza kuti ndi "zosokoneza izi. nthawi…chaka chino cha kuwerengera.”
Louis Vuitton Men's Spring-Summer 2021 Show ku Shanghai
Mwambowu unali wochititsa chidwi wanthawi zonse wanthawi zonse, womwe unachitika pamaso pa alendo am'deralo omwe anali atakhala mizere monga momwe anthu amachitira nthawi zonse Epulo asanafike, osavala zophimba nkhope. Zitsanzo zinapangidwanso kumaloko. “Kusonkhana kuli kotetezeka kumeneko,” iye anatero. Komabe palibe wotsogolera wopanga, yemwe pano ali kwathu ku America, kapena aliyense wochokera ku likulu la L.V. ku Paris yemwe adapita ku China.
Zovala zokha zinadutsa makontinenti. Ndipo apa ndipamene Abloh adatenga nkhaniyo, yomwe idayamba mkati mwa makanema ojambula pa Zoooom With Friends, kanema wodzaza ndi nyama zamakatuni "stowaways" omwe adalumphira m'ngalawa ya L.V. zotengera zotumizira. Iwo adawonedwa komaliza mu Julayi, akuyandama pabwato m'mphepete mwa Seine kumapeto kwa projekiti yotchuka kwambiri ya YouTube yomwe adapereka kuchokera kwa director of Black animation director Reggie Know ku L.A.
Masiku ano mabwatowo anali ataima, ndipo zitsanzozo zidawonetsedwa poyenda kuchokera m'makontena enieni osungidwa padoko la Shanghai, ndi pontoon yolumikizidwa yomwe ikuyandama mumtsinje. "Masabata atatu kapena anayi apitawa, Ibrahim Kamara ndi ine tidalemba ndikunyamula chilichonse ku Paris ndikutumiza momwe mukuwonera." Panali gulu lotsegulira la amuna ovala maovololo amtundu wa turquoise ndi zophimba kumaso za bandana zofananira atanyamula mitambo yamtunda ndi mbalame zam'madzi.
Mtengo wotsika kwambiri wa magawo a L.V. zolengedwa zojambulajambula zinkakhala paziwiya zapanyanja zopaka utoto wofiira.
Ndipo zidapitilirabe zomwe zidazungulira mozungulira kuti zitsimikizirenso mzimu wa chilichonse chomwe Abloh adachita mnyumbamo kuyambira masika a 2019 - kuyambira ndi zobvala zamakono mpaka kutha ndi ulusi wosweka komanso thambo lowoneka ngati la Magritte komanso mitambo yamtambo kuyambira kugwa kwatha. koma kenako adachiyambitsa chomwe adachitcha "hypnovisualism": kutsimikizira malingaliro a Black.
Tanthauzo la mkhalidwe wamaganizo umenewo unalongosoledwa m’chiwonetsero chake kuti: “Dziko lodabwitsa la kuphatikizidwa ndi umodzi, limalingalira dziko kupyolera m’masomphenya osadetsedwa a mwana, wosaipitsidwabe ndi maprogramu a anthu.” Mukuya kwa mkwiyo wokhudza kuphedwa kwa George Floyd, kusintha komwe Abloh akuyima kumbuyo kuli ndi Sun Ra's Afrofuturism, mphamvu ya "kulingalira dziko lina" - lopangidwa ndi luso la katatu la magalasi opangidwa ndi mafelemu osagwirizana, komanso mawonekedwe. wa chithunzi cha duwa chotengedwa ku classic LV sindikiza.
M'malingaliro a Abloh, kupitiliza kusakanikirana ndi cholowa chake cha Ghanian, komanso poganiza za udindo wake ngati bambo Wakuda. "Ndili ndi ana omwe amayenera kukhala pamodzi," adatero. "Ndipo mwachiwonekere, sindikufuna kuti akumane ndi zovuta zomwe tidakhala nazo." Zithunzi zojambulidwa zachidole, zomwe zidali ponseponse popanga - zowoneka mu 3D, zomangidwa ku jekete zamitundu yoyambirira, ndikusuzumira m'matumba - ndi njira yomwe idayambira tsiku lomwe anali kunja "kukagulira ana anga mphatso. .”
Pamwamba pa zilembo zanyengo zomwe amatumiza zidabweranso zonena za makolo ake. "Abloh, Eunice: amayi ake a Virgil Abloh, anakulira pakati pa Accra, Ghana. Atakumana ndi Nee Abloh, adalumikizana naye ku Rockford, Illinois, mu 1973, komwe adagwira ntchito yosoka. Eunice anaphunzitsa mwana wake kugwiritsira ntchito makina osokera, kugwira ntchito mwakhama nthaŵi zonse, ndi kukhala wachifundo.”
“Abloh, Nee: bambo ake a Virgil Abloh, anakulira mumzinda wa Tema, womwe uli m’mphepete mwa nyanja, ku Ghana, ndipo ankagwira ntchito m’madoko a Accra potsitsa zinthu zonyamulira katundu.”
Zomveka mkati mwa maula! Sizinthu zonse zomwe zimawonekera nthawi zonse pazomwe Abloh amachita, koma ndi njira yomwe ali nayo: "Nuance ndi masewera anga. Liwu langa ndi unyinji wa zigawo ndi maumboni. " Kupitilira mugululi, adaganizira za kuphatikizika kwa nyimbo za Jamaican ska ndi nyimbo zamitundu iwiri zaku Britain zazaka za m'ma 70s ndi 80s - chifukwa chake zolemba za psychedelic zakuda ndi zoyera, zomwe zidapanga gulu lanzeru la Vuitton kukhala Damier. masuti ndi nsapato za slip-on. Panali sweti ya mizere yobiriwira, yachikasu, ndi yofiira ya mbendera ya Rastafarian; zosoka mapewa otakata anamangidwa polemekeza bambo ake. "Ndikuganiza, ndine waku Ghana, mumapanga bwanji suti yaku Africa?"
Panalinso zina. Chimodzi mwazolemba zomwe zidabwera ndi chiwonetserochi chidatchedwa "Upcycling Ideology," kufotokoza kuseri kwa ndime yoyambira yowoneka bwino. Zina mwa zidutswazo, zimatheka, zinali zopangidwa ndi nsalu zobwezerezedwanso. Ena "adasinthidwa kuchokera ku malingaliro obwezeredwa" kapena "zobwerezabwereza za nyengo yapitayi." Kupumula kokhala kwaokha kudapatsa Abloh "nthawi yokayikira momwe mafashoni alili. Ndinayenera kuganizira kwambiri za ubale wa munthu padziko lapansi. Ndinaganiza kuti pali zambiri zomwe zimayikidwa pa 'zatsopano' mu mafashoni. Ndikunena kwa wogula wanga kuti mtengo suwonongeka pakapita nthawi. "
Ngati panali mfundo yaikulu, ndithudi inali tanthauzo la makhalidwe - mu chikhalidwe, pa zomwe munthu amachitira pa udindo wa utsogoleri m'deralo. Pakati pa chiwonetserochi, chinsalu chidawonekera m'mphepete mwa chidebe kuti chiwulule zomwe Lauryn Hill adachita, kuukira komwe kumachitika kawirikawiri, monga momwe Abloh adalengeza muvidiyo yomaliza, mogwirizana ndi MLH Foundation, "kuti apindule ndi Black. mabizinesi omwe akhudzidwa ndi COVID-19 ndi zovuta zina. ”
Kodi izi zikukhudzana bwanji ndi kuwonetsa mafashoni apamwamba? Kwa Virgil Abloh, nthawi yafika yoti kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ya nsanja yake kwaposa izi. "Fashoni ikugwiridwa kuti ichite zinazake zomwe sizongoyerekeza zovala," adamaliza moyimbira kuchokera ku Chicago. "Pali udindo wowonetsa njira yakutsogolo."
Yotsogoleredwa ndi @virgilabloh
Mtsogoleri wa Makanema: Reggie Dziwani (@fashionfigureinc)
Musical score by The SA-RA Creative Partners™️ @saracreativepartnersinfo (@tazarnold, @shafiqhusayn & @ommaskeith)
Ndi: Gary Bartz @bartzoyo
Musical Direction by @_benjib & @virgilabloh
Voice over : @tierrawhack & @buddy