Mtsogoleri wa kulenga, Francesco Risso, ananena kuti, “zokhudza za ‘ife.’” Iye ananena mfundo imeneyi ndi vidiyo yosonyeza anzake oposa 40 yojambulidwa m’mizinda 12 padziko lonse, kuyambira ku Shanghai mpaka ku Grand Island, ku Neb.
MARNIFESTO ndiye chopereka chatsopano cha Creative Director Francesco Risso cha Spring/Chilimwe 2021 adafunsa anthu 48 ochokera padziko lonse lapansi kuti azikhala moyo wawo mu zovala za Marni.
Pomwe akujambulidwa ndikujambulidwa ndi anzawo, abale ndi okondedwa. Malo ndi momwe iwo aliri. Kuchokera ku Dakar kupita ku Tokyo, kuchokera ku Milan kupita ku New York. Chiwonetserocho ndi nkhani zawo zonse.
Mafashoni ndi "osati za 'ine'; zikunena za ‘ife.’” Anatero Francesco Risso wa Marni posonyeza chithunzithunzi cha m’kasupe wake wotolera. Panthawi yodabwitsayi, a Risso adasankha kupeŵa kudzoza kwachikhalidwe - palibe malo kapena malingaliro otere. M'malo mwake, adayang'ana kwambiri lingaliro lakuti mafashoni enieni amayambira mu gulu la anthu omwe akugwira nawo ntchito - omwe amawalenga ndi omwe amavala. Anali ndi kachilombo ka lingaliro la pre-COVID-19, ndipo zidayamba kulimba mtima pamene mliri udasintha miyoyo yathu ndi dziko lapansi.
Kuti afotokoze mfundo yake, Risso adakonza zowonetsera kanema wapamtima, wofuna kutchuka: mtsinje wamoyo womwe ungaphatikizepo nkhani za anthu oposa 40 m'mizinda yambiri padziko lonse lapansi, ena amayembekezera, ena osati: Asheville, N.C.; Dakar, Senegal; Detroit; Grand Island, Neb.; London; Los Angeles; Milan; New York; Paris; Philadelphia; Shanghai, ndi Tokyo. "Osati zitsanzo koma anthu ... Osati malo, koma dziko," zolemba zake zawonetsero zinatero. Panali zolakwika zambiri, chifukwa cha zochitika zapadziko lonse lapansi komanso kuti kujambula kudachitika ndi, filimuyo imati, "banja / abwenzi okhala ndi makamera." Risso ndi gulu lake adachikoka bwino.
Tsopano, sizinali ndendende monga momwe mlengiyo adafotokozera powonera. Iye anatchula zochitika zonse zamoyo, ndipo adanena kuti osati-zitsanzo-koma-anthu-anthu adatumizidwa zovala kuti apite nawo. Inde ndi ayi. Magawo a kanema adawomberedwa kale, ndipo zomaliza zimazindikira kutenga nawo gawo kwa wolemba mndandanda wa AAA Camilla Nickerson.
Osatengera. Mfundo yake ndi yakuti: Mafashoni sikuti amangokhudza zovala zokha. Zimakhudza moyo ndi malingaliro onse ndi zochitika zomwe zimakhudzidwa mmenemo. Timawona zovala - kapena molondola, anthu ovala zovala - muzochitika zenizeni zenizeni: pamsewu wapansi panthaka, pa golosale, akugwiritsa ntchito cello, kujambula chithunzi.
LUKIDWA PAMODZI MOYO
Kanemayo adapangidwa mwanzeru mpaka kumapeto komwe kumakhala ngati kanjira kakang'ono. Munthu aliyense anasankha malo oti aziyendapo ndipo anajambulidwa pamenepo, zomwe zimalola owonerera kuyang'ana kumutu ndi kumapazi pa zovalazo. Pali zambiri zoti mutenge. Zithunzi zowoneka bwino za graffiti zochokera ku polojekiti yolemba ndakatulo ya m'nyumba. Mikwingwirima yapamwamba kwambiri yakuda, yofiira ndi yoyera. Zoluka zowawa. Dissonant layerings. Zovala za skirt zakunja. Zambiri mwa izo ndi zokakamiza, zomwe zimawonetsa kuchulukira mwaluso kuti zikhale zokopa, ngati zongosangalatsa. Ndi kusakanikirana, mphindi zochepa za bata: suti yoyera ya denim; Chovala chakuda ndi choyera chogawanika pamwamba ndi siketi, chowoneka bwino mwachikhalidwe.
Pafupifupi samavalidwa ndi mamembala oponya: masks, kusowa kwawo kumalembetsa pokhapokha wina atavala. Kenako, kusowa kwa masks kumakhala kosamvetseka, chifukwa chotengera moyo weniweni munthawi yeniyeni.
Chidziwitso chofunikira chimenecho pambali, "nkhani" zosiyanasiyana za ochita Risso zimapanga mtsutso wamphamvu wa kutsimikizika ndi kufunikira kwa mafashoni. Monga momwe zovala zilili zapamwamba, anthu omwe amavala amawapanga kukhala awoawo mokhulupilika, choncho, telegraph kuti kuvala kwenikweni kumamveka bwino pa moyo watsiku ndi tsiku.
Chosowa: Lingaliro lililonse lochita zimenezi limalimbikitsa mzimu. Ngakhale opanga ambiri akusewera kuti mu nthawi zowola mafashoni amatha kuchita mbali yake ya psyche, Risso sapanga choncho pano. Inde, pali kumwetulira pang'ono ndi kuseka kapena kuwiri, koma zonse, palibe chifukwa choti anthu omwe ali muvidiyoyi amapeza chisangalalo chapadera kuchokera ku zovala zawo zolimba mtima, zamphamvu, zofunafuna chidwi. Izi si zovala zachabechabe. Ndipo ngati mupanga khama, kodi zovala siziyenera kubweretsa chisangalalo chochepa?
MARNIFESTO:
Creative Director: Francesco Risso @asliceofbambi
Art Director: @babakradboy
Wotsogolera Kanema: @talrosner
Mawonekedwe: #camillanickerson@artpartner
Kutulutsa: @midlandagency
Kupanga: @kennedyldn