Dries Van Noten adatengera filimu yodziwika bwino ya wojambula wazaka za m'ma 20 Len Ley kuti apange gulu lodzaza ndi mphamvu komanso kukongola kopanda mphuno.
Kukongola. Mulungu akudziwa, dziko likufunikira. Koma kodi ndi kukongola kotani komwe kumakhala komveka kwa nthawi zovuta? Kwa Dries Van Noten, yankho ndilomveka. "Ziyenera kukhala kukongola komwe kumapereka mphamvu, osati kukongola komwe kumakupangitsani kuganiza kapena kulota kapena kulakalaka zakale ndi zinthu monga choncho," adatero powoneratu.
Ndiwo malingaliro omwe Van Noten adabweretsa pazosonkhanitsa zake zamasika azimayi ndi abambo, zomwe adazipanga pamodzi, njira yofananira kwa iye.
"Ndimangofuna kupanga zovala za anthu, zinthu zokongola, ndipo pamapeto pake, sindikudziwa ngati zimapita za amuna kapena akazi."
Iye anatero. "Izi zidamasulanso magulu [opanga]. Zinali ngati kusawoneka bwino kwakukulu, kosangalatsa kwambiri. ”
Mwina ndi choncho, koma palibe chododometsa pamalingaliro a Van Noten. Zovala zake zimamveka momveka bwino mozikidwa pamasomphenya ake akuthwa a lumo a zenizeni zenizeni, zomwe zimazindikirika ndi mitundu yake yosiyana - mtundu, kusindikiza, kukongoletsa, masanjidwe - chilichonse chomwe chimaganiziridwa kwambiri, ngakhale atakhala wamba bwanji. Kwa masika, Van Noten adawongolera manambalawa mwadala m'njira yosavuta. Zotsatira zake: mndandanda woyitanitsa, wodzazidwa ndi mphamvu komanso chiyembekezo chomwe wopanga adafuna kuti agwire.
Van Noten adaganiza koyambirira kuti sangapange chiwonetsero chazowonetsa zama digito. M'malo mwake, adalemba Viviane Sassen, yemwe ntchito yake yakhala ikupita patsogolo pamalingaliro ake, omwe amatchulidwa chifukwa cha zojambulajambula, kuwonetseratu komanso kuyanjana kwamakono ndi miyambo. Nthawi yomweyo, adapeza ntchito ya wojambula Len Lye, woyeserera koyambirira ndi luso loyenda. Lye adachita zowoneka bwino pafilimu koyambirira kwa zaka makumi awiri, kujambula mwachindunji pa celluloid pazotsatira zomwe zimawonetsa psychedelia ya Sixties.
Van Noten adakopeka ndi kulimba mtima komanso kuyenda kwa ntchito ya Lye.
Analumikizana ndi maziko a New Zealand a wojambula, ndipo adagwirizana nawo pazithunzi zake zambiri - mitengo ya kanjedza; dzuwa lamadzulo lotentha kwambiri; zojambulajambula, zosasintha; mawu a nkhani, olembedwa mu script. Izi zimasewera mumasewera amasewera, omwe amakondwerera kutuluka m'nyumba. "Positivism, mphamvu, kutuluka, gombe. Chifukwa chake, chilimwe, tikusangalala ndi moyo, "adatero Van Noten, ndikuzindikira kuti ngakhale COVID-19 ikapitilira kulamulira miyoyo yathu chilimwe chamawa, "mutha kuvina nokha."
Ndipo kuwoneka bwino kuchita izo. Van Noten adayamba ndi njira yochepetsera, yokhwima. Akabudula a Bermuda - mutu waukulu - ndi jekete imalengeza zomanga zochepa zomwe zili pachimake chake ndi zamitundu yambiri yopangira zovala.
Pali zovala zambiri zakunja mu ma trenchcoats, mapaki ndi ma jekete owoneka bwino; malaya a thonje achikhalidwe ndi zowoneka bwino; kapangidwe ka ma T-shirts a mauna osavuta, zokongoletsedwa ndi toni; madiresi ongodula, mosiyanasiyana ang'ono komanso kamphepo, ndipo, mosasamala za gombe, zovala zosambira. Van Noten amaphatikiza magawo osiyanasiyana, mawonekedwe ndi mawonekedwe mumagawo aluso, kulimba mtima komwe sikumatembenuka kukakamizidwa. Ndipo, chifukwa kuphweka ndi kusinthasintha, osati udindo, kusakanikirana kwa mitundu, kugwedezeka, kutsekemera pa malaya ndi pamwamba kumawonjezera mlingo wa froth.
Maganizo amenewo adabwera mosavuta kwa Van Noten. "Nthawi zonse ndimakhala wokhumudwa," adatero. "Kwa ine, zinali zovuta kupanga malingaliro ndi zochepa." Kutengeka, mphamvu ndi zovala zanzeru, zowoneka bwino - trifecta yosangalatsa nthawi zovuta.
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