"Ndi DIY komanso wamisala komanso wamisala - si njira yanu yothamangira." Anatero Glenn Martens pa Lachisanu lapitali m'mawa, patadutsa maola asanu ndi limodzi atamaliza kujambula ndikuwoneka m'buku lake loyamba lapamwamba la Dizilo.
Atakhala masiku angapo akuyenda mailosi asanu ndi anayi akuthamangira uku ndi uko panthawi yopanga, ndiyeno theka la usiku atalandidwa mwachidule, tulo tating'onoting'ono ta Negroni, atha kugwirizana kwambiri ndi maloto a Run Lola Runprogress wa heroine watsitsi lamoto wa filimuyi, omwe ankavala jeans (zowona) ndi nsonga yoyera ya thanki yoyera yomwe inalowetsedwa mu denim kudzera pa lamba lamba kumbuyo.
Kanemayo adawona kusintha kwake kudutsa magawo anayi osiyana: maphwando atatha, kuyenda movutikira, kufika kuofesi, ndipo pomaliza kugunda kwa Mars katatu. Unali ulendo, ndithudi—kodi unalinso loto chabe?
Titabwerera ku Milan, a Martens adakoka khofi wakuya wa espresso pomwe amalongosola malingaliro ena kumbuyo kwa chopereka chomwe chaperekedwa mwachangu chomwe chikuyimira chizindikiro chachikulu m'mbiri ya mtunduwo. Monga tafotokozera kale m'mafunso athu owoneratu, wojambula wobadwa ku Belgium wobadwa ku Bruges adafika pamalo osalemekeza mbiri ya denim yaku Italy yomwe idakhazikitsidwa ndi cholinga chofuna kusintha chikhalidwe komanso chilengedwe.
M'gawo loyamba la zosonkhanitsira mabala onse a denim adatengedwa kuchokera ku Laibulale ya Denim yomwe yangokhazikitsidwa kumene ya Martens, chopereka chobiriwira nthawi zonse chomwe mtsogolomu chidzayimira 40%, osachepera, mwa ma jeans akampani. "Ngakhale," adatero momveka bwino, "si zidutswa zonse za filimuyi ndi zosonkhanitsa zomwe zimakhala zokhazikika, monga momwe zimakhalira ndi zokutira zapadera." Gawo lotsegulirali linali ndi zida zomwe Martens adazitcha "zovala za denim": mathalauza am'matumba asanu okhala ndi chiuno chachikulu okhala ndi nsapato zophatikizika ndi zoluka zazikulu za denim (zonse zowoneka bwino za Y/Project-y), komanso zidutswa zopaka utoto ndi trompe l' mapepala a mafuta.
Titatuluka mumsewu, tikuthamanga, protagonist wathu adatitsogolera ku denim vista yoyesera, yokhala ndi utoto wambiri, wowoneka bwino wa zovala zakunja zakunja ndi Giro d'Italia kinky athleisure. Maonekedwe aamuna anali ndi pepala lomangidwanso lopangidwanso losindikizidwa pa malaya a denim osasinthidwa utoto ndi panti, denim yachikale ya ku Paris, madiresi a organza ndi masiketi okulungidwa kuti apachike (monga momwe Lola amawonekera komanso zidutswa zambiri zachikazi apa) kuchokera m'chiuno.
Atakwezedwa pamalo okwera muofesi - gehena yatsopano yam'mawa pambuyo pa usiku watha - mawonekedwe ake adakhazikika modabwitsa. Panali njira zambiri zanzeru kuseri kwa zidutswa za bulbous, zosinthika mu denim upcycled ndi jeresi zosindikizidwa mobisa ndi mbiri yakale ya Dizilo komanso kumaliza ngati utoto. Mathalauza achikopa akuda ndi ma jekete a trucker ndi zovala zogwirira ntchito za silky za satin zokhala ndi fumbi lapinki ndi buluu wamwana zimayimira zovala zantchito zopatsa chidwi. Panali "siketi yothandiza kwambiri," makamaka chovala chachitali kwambiri komanso chokhala m'thumba, chomwe chikhoza kuvala ngati mini kapena kulendewera pawindo kuti chigwiritse ntchito ngati makwerero othawa muofesi.
Anzake ochulukirachulukira atadzaza chikepe, ngwazi yathu idayima pafupi ndi potulukamo ndikukhala ndi nkhawa zambiri - kodi adapita kwa anthu? Chitseko chikatsegulidwa, chinali m'dera lomwe linali lankhanza kwambiri: malo abodza otera ku Mars okhala ndi mawonekedwe achilendo a Martens. Mwinamwake zabwino kwambiri zinali chovala chachikulu cha organza chokwera pamwamba chomwe anali wofooka kwambiri chifukwa cha kutopa kuti asakane kuvala panthawi yowoneratu. Opambana ena adaphatikizanso zovala zamasiku ano za NASCAR, mayunifolomu amtundu wa retro Jetsons, ndi kavalidwe kakang'ono kopangidwa ndi apurikoti Milky Way swirl.
Martens akukonzanso malo a tinthu ta Dizilo kuti asinthenso. Zomwe adapeza makamaka akukondwera panthawi yowomberayo, adanena kuti zitsanzozo zinali zokondwa kwambiri ndi zidutswazo mpaka kufika poyang'ana mitengo yamalonda ndi masiku otsika, kuti atsimikizire kuti adzigwira okha. Kuphatikizika koyamba kwa Dizilo kwa Martens kunali kocheperako komanso kudumpha kwakukulu: umboni wam'tsogolo wodzaza ndi zovala zopotoka komanso zowoneka bwino zomwe ungalumikizanenso ndi nyumba yopindika yopindika ya denim.
Zowonjezera:
Dizilo Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Art Director: Christopher Simmonds
Mtsogoleri: Frank Lebon
Wojambula: Larissa Hoffman
Stylist: Ursina Gysi
Tsitsi: Cyndia Harvey ndi Wella Professionals Italia
Zopanga: Inge Grognard
Kutulutsa: Midland Agency
Kapangidwe kake: Jabez Bartlett
Nyimbo: Leon Vynehall
Wojambula: Ella Snyder
Kupanga & Kukhamukira: North Six
DoP: Eric K. Yue
1st AD: Franco Basaglia