M'gulu la Giorgio Armani Menswear Spring 2022 ku Milan sutiyi imasinthidwanso mawonekedwe ake, ikupereka lingaliro logwirizana pamwamba ndi pansi: malaya amadzulo okhala ndi kolala yoyimilira kapena jekete la denim ngati lodulidwa pamodzi ndi mathalauza okhala ndi mivi yopangidwa mkati. ubweya wa pinstripe womwewo, kapena jekete la gilet ndi akabudula a Bermuda.
Zosonkhanitsazo zimadzazidwa ndi kupepuka kwapadera: zida zopanda kulemera, mawonekedwe omwe amasinthitsa thupi mozama, mtima wodekha komanso wosasamala. Kavalidwe kamasewera-mwamphamvu, womasuka komanso wolimba mtima-wopangidwa ndi zosankha zachibadwa komanso zofunikira komanso mitundu yomwe imachokera ku buluu kupita ku mchenga wamchenga ndi choko choyera, ndi ma pops ofiira ndi obiriwira omwe amakumbukira dziko lachirengedwe - nthawi zonse mogwirizana, Inde.
Kwa Giorgio Armani, kukonzanso kwakukulu kwakhudza kwambiri. “Ineyo ndaphunzira kusangalala ndi zinthu zambiri ndiponso kugwira ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku, osakonzekeratu kwambiri kapena kupanikizika kwambiri. Ndipo ndiyenera kuvomereza, zakhala zathanzi kwa ine, "adalemba mu imelo pamaso pa chiwonetsero chake choyamba ndi omvera kuyambira February 2020.
Awa anali mawu ofunikira kwa munthu wodzilamulira yekha, ndipo zomwe tidaziwona kuchokera ku Armani chaka chatha zidamusangalatsa kwambiri. Zosonkhanitsa zimenezi zinali chimodzimodzi.
M'malo mobwerera komwe adasiyira - HQ Teatro yokhala ndi anthu 800 - adayitanira anthu 80 okha komwe zidayambira: nyumba yake (komanso likulu lakale) pa Via Borgonuovo 21, komwe zida zake zodziwika bwino zidachitika. malo. Mukudziwa kuti zinali zofunika kwa iye chifukwa adapirira ndi omanga ndi mamvekedwe omveka omwe amalowerera pa idyll yake yakunyumba kwa milungu iwiri isanachitike. M'masiku amenewo, Armani amachitira ziwonetsero m'chipinda chapansi panthaka cha palazzo, pulani yoyambirira ya Teatro yokhala ndi mipando 300 komanso dziwe losambira lanjira imodzi yodutsa m'mawa.
M'munda wa ku Japan wa bwalo, kutali ndi zojambula za Silvio Pasotti za Armani wopanda malaya wosafa pamodzi ndi anthu a m'zaka za m'ma 1900 (Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Liza Minelli), adawonetsa zomwe malingaliro ake osungunula amatanthauza pa zovala za Armani: wochenjera, wowongoka, zovuta, ndi pang'ono achigololo.
Popereka zosonkhanitsira pagulu lachitsanzo lomwe limawoneka lolunjika kwambiri kuposa nthawi zonse, adapanga mawonekedwe ake owoneka bwino ndikumasula mizere yakuthwa kuti amvetsetse momwe 'zovala zamasewera' zimawonekera zaka zapakati pazaka zisanafike. Mwina ndi momwe zovala zowoneka bwino zimawonekera mu 21st?
Kulingalira kunali kwachisawawa popanda kudutsa gawo laulesi. "Makhalidwe onse ndi opepuka kwambiri, chifukwa ndikuganiza kuti tonse taphunzira kukhala osasamala komanso omasuka m'mavalidwe athu,"
Armani anafotokoza.
Iye sanagwirizane ndi suti wamba, akumapatsa mibadwo yatsopano—komanso akale—mavalidwe osinthidwa kuti atsatire: “Kungoganiziridwanso, kotero sikupangidwanso ndi blazer ndi thalauza.” Tsopano, Armani amakhulupirira kuti 'suti' ikhoza kukhalanso malaya ndi thalauza mu nsalu zofananira, kapena combo yamtundu wa blouson-ndi-trouser.
Kapena: ma jekete ansalu ngati a Armani-gray omwe adapanga posachedwa ku timu ya mpira waku Italy, motsogozedwa ndi zovala za mphunzitsi wodziwika bwino Erzo Bearzot. Malirime oipa m'manyuzipepala a ku Italy adanena kuti jeketeyo inapangitsa osewerawo kuwoneka ngati ophika, zomwe zimangosonyeza kuti ngakhale Armani - chipilala cholondola cha sartorial - chiri pamwamba pa mavalidwe achikhalidwe. “Sindimakonda anthu akamavala zovala m’malo movala. Izi zakhala zofunika kwambiri pamasiku ano," adatsutsa.
"Mwanjira ina, mliriwu watsimikizira kuti malingaliro anga amtundu wanthawi zonse komanso osagwira ntchito nthawi zonse akhala amtengo wapatali. Ndipo izi ndi zomwe ndikufuna kufotokoza ndi gululi: lingaliro lachitonthozo lomwe likugwirizana kwambiri ndi nthawi yomwe tikukhalamo. " Pomwe kusintha kwa ma wardrobes mwina kuli pachibale panjira ya Armani - ma mini-skorts achimuna omwe aperekedwa kwina sabata ino adasinthidwa ndi akabudula apa - vuto la mliri pa wopangayo likuwoneka bwino.
Ngakhale atapitilizabe kufotokoza malingaliro omwe angakhale akugulitsa kampani yake, monga mphekesera za sabata yatha kuti Armani adalumikizana ndi Ferrari. "Kuti ndipitirize ndi fanizo loyendetsa galimoto, ndidakali pampando woyendetsa. Ndapanga zonsezi m’zaka zoposa 40 za ntchito yanga, ndipo ndapanga mapulani achindunji ndi atsatanetsatane amtsogolo. Chifukwa chake, palibe chifukwa choti anthu azidandaula, ”adalemba mlengiyo. Pakuchoka kwina kwa njirayi, adatenga uta wake m'manja ndi wothandizira wake woyamba, Leo Dell'Orco. Armani, mwa njira, samayendetsa Ferrari. Pakuti ngakhale atakhala pampando woyendetsa galimoto mophiphiritsira, anawonjezera kuti, "Ndiyenera kuvomereza kulekerera kwanga pang'ono: Ndili ndi woyendetsa galimoto, ndipo ndimakonda kuyendetsedwa mozungulira kuposa kuyendetsa galimoto ndekha."
Director: @amaranta957
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