Otsatira a Riccardo Tisci oyambirira, sangalalani! Chiyambireni wopangayo ku Burberry, odzipereka akhala akuyitanitsa zambiri za chibadwa chosafa ndi zaka 10 zaumisiri wa Givenchy: kukongola kwamagazi ofiira, lumo, kukongola kwachilendo koyimitsidwa pakati pa ngozi ndi chikhumbo.
Nyengo ino, iwo ali nazo basi. Wojambulidwa m'chipululu cham'tawuni ndi Millennium Mills ku Royal Victoria Docks ku East London, gulu la amuna a Tisci lidasokoneza kukongola kwake kosiyana kwambiri ndi ntchito yake muwonetsero wake wa Burberry mpaka pano. Panali maumboni ambiri a ngalande ndi ma carcoat, koma m'mawu ake oyera, Burberry anali kuphunzira chilankhulo cha Tisci osati mwanjira ina.
˝Ndinkafuna kuti zosonkhanitsidwa ziwonetse mzimu womasuka wa unyamata ndi mtima wake wowona mtima ndi wolimba mtima, wofuna kuyesa komanso kusakonda zinthu. Pali kumverera kwamphamvu kwa umodzi komanso kulola kupita - kulimbikitsana ndi kulimbikitsana wina ndi mzake kufotokoza umunthu wathu momasuka. Ndi mphamvu yaiwisi kwambiri yomwe imakhala yopatsirana, yosangalatsa komanso yodzaza ndi moyo. Monga kudzutsidwa.˝
Riccardo Tisci
Anadula manjawo zovala zakunja ndikuzijambulanso kukhala mawonekedwe ankhondo, kuyeretsa mizere ya raglan ya zovala zamasewera, ndikupangitsa kuti silhouette ya halter-neck iwoneke ngati hunky. Zimbale za pachifuwa zolimbana zidapitilira zokambiranazo, zina zidangokhala chiwonetsero chazithunzi pa t-sheti, pomwe zomangira mokokomeza za zovala zogwirira ntchito zidapangitsa masomphenya a mafupa ndi nthiti, kubweretsanso zithunzithunzi zowoneka bwino za Memento Mori kapena Día de Muertos zomwe ntchito ya Tisci imadzutsidwa nthawi zambiri. m'mbuyomu. Atakweza mtundu uliwonse wa cheke cha Nova, anaphimba chinthu chonsecho mu bulangeti lakuda, lakuda, lafumbi la beige, loyera, lofiira, ndi lakuda, lokhala ndi mutu wabuluu wakumwamba ku "chinthu chokha chomwe takhala tikuwona" pamene ali mumsampha. kutseka.
Kutanthauzira kwake kwa ma code a Burberry - opangidwa koma okonzedwa bwino - adamva kuti ndizowona pamalingaliro ake, mudadabwa chifukwa chake sanatenge njira iyi posachedwa. Pa kanema wakunyumba kwawo ku Mayfair, Tisci adawonetsa zaka zitatu zomwe amakhala. “Zimatenga nthawi kuti wopanga apeze zoyenera mukamagwira ntchito pakampani. Kwa anthu akunja, zikuwoneka ngati umangopita kumeneko ndi…” adapuma kaye. "Ndi njira yosangalatsa. Gulu lalikulu, ndilosangalatsa komanso lovuta komanso lovuta. Kotero, ndi bwino kuti tafika pano. Pambuyo pa zaka zitatu, dzinali likuyamba kudziwika. " Kugwiritsa ntchito mawu onyansa koma oyenerera: Mumatero.
Zojambulidwa panja, zitsanzo zimayenda mumchenga wambiri, kusiyana ndi mawonekedwe a Millennium Mills ku Royal Victoria Docks, London. Nyimbo za Anthemic za gulu lopangidwa ndi Britain, Shpongle, zimasewera mumlengalenga. Zokumana nazo zapagulu.
Tischi amasungunula kumverera kwaufulu ndi mgwirizano, kupanga mphindi ya positivity yachinyamata, yokhazikika pa zauzimu ndi mphamvu za nyimbo ndi kuyenda.
"Muyenera kumvetsetsa cholowa chakampani, ndipo ndi kampani yayikulu, m'dziko lolimba chotere. Pang'onopang'ono, mukuwona zomwe mukuchita. Ndi njira yanu, "adatero Tisci. Kuyang'ana m'mbuyo pazosonkhanitsa zaposachedwa, mutha kuwona njira yotsatizana ndi sitepe yomwe idatenga kuti mupeze mawu awa, kuti chizindikiritso chake chiwonekere panyumba yamafashoni zaka zana kuposa wamkulu wake.
Koma mliriwu udasintha malingaliro a Tisci: "Ndimamva kuti ndili kunyumba, ngakhale ndakhala ndikutsekeka. Dziko liyambanso, ndipo kwa ine, izi zinali zatsopano. Ndi zomwe tikufuna lero: kufotokoza, ufulu, ufulu wakuthupi; kukhala tokha. Ndi punk m'njira yabwino: kuswa malire. "
Kuyang’ana dziko likukhalanso ndi moyo—“ndipo mbadwo wachichepere wopenga ukuwonekanso!”—Tisci anakumbutsidwa za m’zaka zake zoyambirira za m’ma 20 pamene anathaŵira ku India ndipo anatsegukira maso ake ku chenicheni china. "Ndinakumbukira nyimbo yanga yoyamba ku India, ndi Shpongle, mmodzi mwa a DJs abwino kwambiri mu nyimbo za trance," adatero, ponena za gulu lomwe linapezanso chiwonetserochi, "kuchita nawo malo otseguka awa, ndi chilengedwe chonsechi, ndi zonsezi. mibadwo yaying'ono padziko lonse lapansi, kukhala ndekha ndikudziwonetsera ndekha. Ndimachokera m’banja losauka, koma nyimbo za ma rave zinali kwinakwake komwe ndimatha kufotokoza maganizo anga ndi kukhala pamlingo wofanana ndi wina aliyense.”
Potengera zomwe anasonkhanitsazo ndi zikumbukiro za rave, zinali ngati kuti chochitikacho chikumupatsanso Tisci malo oti afotokoze momasuka.
Maonekedwe: Ib Kamara
Zopanga: Isamaya French
Tsitsi: Jawara
Choreography: Josh Johnson ndi Tosh Basco
Otsogolera: Partel Oliva
Nyimbo: Shpongle