Tengani mpando wakutsogolo kuti mupeze Cactus Jack Dior, gulu la Dior Men Summer 2022 lomwe likuyimira zokambirana pakati pa Kim Jones, wojambula nyimbo Travis Scott ndi Christian Dior, adawululidwa kuchokera ku Paris.
Ku Dior, Kim Jones adagwirizana ndi ena mwa akatswiri ojambula bwino kwambiri, kuyambira Peter Doig mpaka Raymond Pettibon ndi Daniel Arsham. Koma mwanjira ina kuyesayesa kwanyengo ino ndi rapper wazaka 29 waku Houston kunamveka bwino. Travis Scott ndi m'modzi mwa oimba odziwika bwino padziko lapansi pano, fano la Gen Z lomwe lili ndi chikhalidwe cha chikhalidwe cha anthu komanso yemwe ali ndi mwana ndi Kylie Jenner. Iye ndi mtundu wa anthu otchuka omwe amakhala kutsogolo pamawonetsero a Jones. Koma lero gulu la hip-hop silikulamulidwanso ndi mafashoni. Iwo asintha malingaliro awo, adzinenera kuti ali ndi mphamvu pamakampani, ndipo abwerera kumbuyo.
Kugwirizana kwa Scott ndi Dior kunali chiwonetsero cha chisinthiko chimenecho: msonkhano pakati pa mlengi ndi nyumba yake yosungiramo zinthu zakale, yemwe sanasankhe bwino kuti ndani adachitidwapo gawo liti. "Kuyambira pa siteji mpaka nyimbo, sizinali za zovala zokha koma zokhudzana ndi zomwe zinachitikira," adatero Scott panthawi yokonzekera ma ateliers a Jones ku Paris. "Ndi momwe mumawonera ndikumvera, momwe mumawonera nyimbo." Amalankhula za kasewero kamene kamakhalapo, komwe kamakumbukira minda yaubwana ya Christian Dior yokhala ndi malo olemera kwambiri a Texan a ku Texan omwe adakulirakulira, koma ayeneranso kuti amajambula chithunzi cha kumvetsetsa kwake kwamafashoni. Pokhala ndi luso la masitayelo, Scott ali ndi zovala zamunthu zomwe zimasiyana ndi mawu ake. "Ndi za kukoma, sichoncho?" Jones anauza Scott. “Anthu ena ali nazo, ena alibe. Mwamwayi mwatero!”
Intaneti ikupatsani maupangiri osatha a Scott ndi omwe amamupanga kusankha, kuchokera ku Jones kupita ku Virgil Abloh, Phoebe Philo, ndi mitundu yachipembedzo yaku Japan yomwe imatsindika za chikhalidwe cha mafashoni a esoteric. Kupitilira apo, maupangiri amtundu amatha kulepheretsa kusonkhanitsa kwa Dior nyengo ino, yomwe inali medley wazomwezo. Jones adalongosola kuti adalimbikitsidwa ndi mawonekedwe a wojambulayo komanso zomwe adapanga zosiyanasiyana. "Tidakhala ndi magawo opangira zolimba kwa miyezi ingapo," adatero Scott. “Ndinkajambula zithunzi n’kuzitumiza kwa iye. Tinakhala pansi ndi achifwamba amisala, ndikusweka pomwe timamva ngati tikufuna kutenga. " Phaleli lidajambula chithunzi cha Houston, mlengalenga wake wapinki, mtundu wobiriwira wa cacti, ndi zofiirira zapadziko lapansi zomwe zakhala mitundu yamalonda muzovala za Scott.
Silhouette imamveka yokhazikika muzokonda za rapperyo chifukwa chapamwamba pang'ono wophatikizidwa ndi panti woyaka, wowonda koma wosathina. Kubwereza kwa tracksuit m'munsi kunali kolimba kwambiri, kogwirizana ndi kulondola komanso kodzaza ndi mabatani achitsulo onga ngati ng'ombe pansi m'mbali. Pogwirizana ndi chikhalidwe chomwecho, Scott adatanthauzira thumba la John Galliano la Dior ngati thumba lawiri lomwe linkamveka kwambiri kuposa kale lonse. Zina mwazolemba za ojambula: zitsanzo zomwe zinadzutsa rattlesnakes ndi maluwa a m'chipululu a m'mapiri a Texan. Anali atawotchera chimbudzi cha maison de Jouy, pomwe zojambula zomwe zimawonekera pamwamba zinali zake. "Ndi zinthu zongoyerekeza zomwe zimatuluka m'mutu mwanga, ndipo ndimazijambula pamanja," adatero Scott, akulozera kuzinthu zomwezo zolukidwa ndi zoluka. Izi ndi zolukidwa ndi manja, zomwe ndi mtedza wovuta kwambiri. Ndi misala.”
Polankhula za maulendo omwe iye ndi Jones adapita ku Dior archives, Scott anali kumwamba. "Ndikubwera ndikutha kukhala nawo m'manja mwanga ...," adayimilira, kumwetulira pankhope pake. Pambuyo pake, adafotokozanso za zokhumba zenizeni za atelier ngati Dior, zomwe zimatha kupanga chilichonse. "Kupangitsa malingaliro anu kukhala amoyo, ndi zamisala." Chidwi chake chinkawoneka m'gululi, ndipo ndichifukwa chake zidawoneka ngati machesi ochenjera a Jones. M'malo mogwiritsa ntchito ntchito ya wojambula pazovala zake monga momwe amachitira m'mbuyomu, uyu anali mlengi yemwe adayitana kasitomala wake wa Dior yemwe anali wodziwika kwambiri kuti atenge nawo mbali pakupanga, kuchokera ku silhouette mpaka kukongoletsa ndi kukongoletsa pamwamba. Zinali organic.
Mkati mwa nkhaniyi, chosonkhanitsacho chinasonyeza mgwirizano wina mu mawonekedwe a malaya ojambulidwa ndi wojambula George Condo, omwe adzagulitsidwa kuti apeze ndalama zothandizira maphunziro a m'badwo wamtsogolo wa okonza mapulani. "Travis anandiuza kuti akuyamba maziko oti ana apite ku Parsons. Ngati tichita izi ndi Dior, pali mawu otero mozungulira. Ngati ndikanapita ku koleji tsopano, sindikanakwanitsa. Ndizokwera mtengo kwambiri, ndipo ku America ndizokwera mtengo kwambiri.
Mumatuluka ndi ngongole zazikulu zana musanathe,” adatero Jones. "Ndimangoona ngati tikufunika kugwiritsa ntchito ndalama zathu kuthandiza ana awa," adatero Scott. Atafunsidwa momwe amafunira chiwonetsero cha Dior - chiwonetsero choyamba cha abambo mnyumbamo chokhala ndi omvera kuyambira mliriwo - Scott adatsamira, kuyimilira, nati, "Kodi mudapitako ku utopia?"