Kutsegula, kupepuka ndi kutsika. Amuna chilimwe 2022 runway show. Zosonkhanitsa zopangidwa ndi Véronique Nichanian, motsogozedwa ndi Cyril Teste.
Yopangidwa ndi Cyril Teste, chopereka cha amuna chachilimwe cha 2022 chimakhala ndi mpweya womasuka komanso womasuka. Zatsopano zolondola zimakhala ndi zokambirana zokhala ndi zolemba zakale zomwe zimawonetsa zowoneka bwino, zowoneka bwino komanso zopindika, zosinthidwa pogwiritsa ntchito njira zamakono.
"Ndi malingaliro atsopano, ndipo ndi osangalatsa." Pamene adanena izi, Véronique Nichanian amakambilana zatsatanetsatane wa kalembedwe kakang'ono (masokisi akuda akusuzumira pa nsapato za mbuzi pansi pa Bermudas). Komabe, ndemanga yake yowoneratu Zoom idagwiranso ntchito pagulu lonse la zovala zachimuna za Hermès. Zinawonetsedwa masanawa pakubwerera koyamba kwa nyumbayo ku bwalo lamiyala lopangidwa ndi Auguste Perret la Mobilier National kuyambira Juni 22, 2019 (tsiku la chiwonetsero chake chomaliza cha masika). Kubwereranso anali wotsogolera zisudzo waluso Cyril Teste, chifukwa cha filimu yake yachitatu yogwirizana ndi Nichanian motsatana.
Monga nyengo yatha, zowonera zowoneka bwino za Teste ndi mapoto osalala zidalola omwe amawonera kutali - kuphatikiza ine - kuti apangitse pang'ono zochitika zenizeni zomwe ndidazifotokoza panthawiyo kuti "maso anu amayenda uku ndi uku kuti apange mbiri yolimba komanso yanthawi yochepa chabe. malingaliro omwe ndi anu omwe muyenera kuwongolera. " Kusiyana lero kunali kuti panalinso omvera enieni pamanja, kuyang'ana izi moona mtima livestream (ambiri sali), ndi kugwiritsa ntchito maso awo. Monga Nichanian adanena: "Ndikofunikira kuti ndisakhale ndi filimu yopangidwa kale ndi montage yambiri ... ndi moyo weniweni ndi anthu enieni akuyang'ana pamsewu."
Pambuyo pa nthawi yomwe moyo wakhala ukuwoneka kuti ndi wosakhala weniweni, moyo weniweni ndi womwewo. Zosonkhanitsazo zinali zolimba, zokhala ndi maonekedwe 41 okha: "Sindimakonda kukhala ndi zovala zambiri, koma kukhala ndi zoyenera," adatero Nichanian. Poyamba zinkaoneka zosavuta. Koma m'mene mudalola diso lanu kuyang'ana mozungulira m'menemo, m'pamenenso chodabwitsa, chobisika mkati mwa zinthu zooneka ngati wamba, zidawululidwa.
Nichanian adatcha gululi kuti "Double-Jeu," kapena "Double Game," ndipo adazifotokoza m'njira zingapo. Zambiri mwazovala zakunja, kuphatikiza chotseguliracho, zidapangidwa ndi mapanelo a gabardine osiyanitsidwa ndi "spinnaker," kapena chinsalu, chomwe chinali ndi utoto wowoneka bwino komanso wokhazikika ndi kusokera kwa zigzag kuti zigwirizane ndi mayendedwe aulere, kudzoza kumodzi kumbuyo kwa malingaliro a wopanga. Chovuta kuwona panjira, pa Zoom yathu, ndipo ngakhale kuyandikira kwachikondi kwa Teste kunali pentimento yosamala ya cholowa chamitundu iwiri cha Mors et Gourmettes, choyera-pa-choyera, ndipo nthawi zina chimalimbikitsidwa kwambiri ndi kuwonjezera adasokoneza chithandizo cha Hermès Quadrige equine. Gawo lalikulu la zidutswazo zinali zosinthika, zomwe zimapatsa mtengo wowirikiza kawiri ndi mawu awiri omveka. Izi zinaphatikizapo mapaki okhoza kusinthidwa; kuwonjezeredwa kwatsopano kwa jekete ya Nichanian yomaliza ya nyengo yomaliza yokhala ndi chovala chamkati chosunthika; blouson wobiriwira wotuwa mu ng'ona yofewa; ndi jekete yomaliza ya zipper (yomwe, inverted, inali hardware yaulere, chidziwitso chodziwika kwambiri).
Zosindikizidwa zosanjikiza padera, panali mawonekedwe achilengedwe mu abstracted intarsia daisy relief knitwear, kuphulika koopsa kwa utoto wa malaya alalanje ndi pinki a cashmere, ndi zolumikizira zofewa zomwe zimaphatikizapo malaya osokedwa panyanja ndi Bermuda pamodzi ndi zikopa za nkhosa zapinki. Kulumikizana ndi kamphepo kayeziyezi ka mutuwo, kuyenda panyanja, malambawo ankapangidwa kuchokera ku zingwe ndipo matumba ambiri ankadulidwa munsalu komanso zikopa. Pamodzi ndi nsapato za socked zimenezo, panalinso nsapato zachikopa zachikopa, zotsuka pansi, ndi nsapato zachikopa cha ng'ombe.
Zophatikizira za Nichanian zinali zokongola zachimuna zomwe zimalola kuti zapaderazi zikhale zobisika kwa onse kupatula omwe ali ndi masomphenya kuti azindikire. Monga momwe iye anati: “Ndi za kudzitsegulira nokha ku njira zatsopano zowonera. Kusewera, ndi kuyambiranso. Chifukwa tiyenera kukhala ndi miyoyo yambiri, yochuluka. Ndipo nthawi zonse ndimakonda kukhulupirika pochita china chake popanda logo yayikulu. ”
Lingaliro linali, molondola, kuti kuyenda mozungulira ndi dzina pachifuwa, thumba, kapena nsapato kumawululira pamwamba koma osazama. Ananenanso kuti: "Kuno ku Hermès, sindikuchita mafashoni, ndikuvala zovala. Ndipo ndikuchita m'njira yomwe ndikuyembekeza kuti ziwonjezera zomwe takumana nazo ndikuthandiza kuti zisinthe. ” Ichi chinali chosonkhanitsa chomwe chinakumbutsa zomwe Antoine de Saint-Exupéry mu Le Petit Prince anafotokoza kuti "chinsinsi chosavuta kwambiri: Ndi mtima wokha umene munthu angathe kuwona moyenera; chofunikacho n’chosaoneka ndi maso.” Unali mkhalidwe watsopano, ndipo unali wokondweretsa.
