Venice m'dziko lotukukanso, ngati n'kotheka, ndi chozizwitsa kwambiri kuposa kale, ndi ma dolphin omwe amawona akutchova juga ku laguna ndi alendo owerengeka ozungulira kuti aziwasilira. Mwachipambano, nyanja yosalimbayo posachedwapa inalengezedwa kukhala chipilala cha dziko, ndipo panthaŵi imodzimodziyo boma la Italy potsirizira pake linalengeza kuletsa zombo zapamadzi zomwe zinali ndi mikangano zomwe zinagonjetsa mzindawu pamene zikuoneka kuti sizibweretsa phindu la ndalama.
Ndi misewu yokhotakhota ya mzindawu ndi ma piazzas opanda kanthu, komanso mabwalo a Giardini, (okhala ndi zopereka zapadziko lonse za Venice Architecture Biennale akulumikizana pansi pamutu wamutu wakuti Kodi Tidzakhala Pamodzi Motani?) osathedwa nzeru kwenikweni ndi alendo, gulu lankhondo lowonda kwambiri. , ojambulidwa mphini, odzala ndi malingaliro, ndi kuyendayenda m'malo ongopeka a mzindawo, anawonekera kwambiri.
Izi zidakhala zitsanzo ndi zithunzi za Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent, mtawuniyi kuti ayende, kupondaponda, kuzunguliridwa, ndikuyenda mumsewu wokopa wa opanga (ngakhale kusiyanasiyana kwa thupi, zikuwoneka, sikunakhale gawo lazokambirana. m'malo ovala amuna).
Pogwirizana ndi zomwe mzindawu ukuyang'ana pa luso lazomangamanga, Vaccarello adagwirizana ndi wojambula wonyoza komanso wopanga mafilimu Doug Aitken (yemwe adapambana Mphotho Yapadziko Lonse ku 1999 Venice Biennale) pamalo owonetsera zomwe adasonkhanitsa.
Aitken adapanga Green Lens, mawonekedwe odabwitsa agalasi omwe adasonkhanitsidwa mwezi umodzi pa Isola della Certosa, ndikubzalidwa ndi nkhalango zobiriwira zanyumba. Imagwira ngati yankho ku funso lofunsidwa ndi Biennale, kusakanikirana bwino za futurism ndi chilengedwe.
"Nthawi zonse za Saint Laurent ndakhala ndikuchita ndekha m'njira," adatero Vaccarello, pamwambo wamatsenga pambuyo pawonetsero womwe unakhala pabwinja lopanda denga la nyumba yakale ya njerwa pachilumbachi, "choncho zinali zabwino kugawana nawo. lingaliro kwa nthawi yoyamba ndi wojambula yemwe ndimasilira, ndipo zinali zosangalatsa. Lingaliroli liyenera kukhala lachiwonetsero cha azimayi chaka chatha," adatero Vaccarello, "ndipo chifukwa cha mliri womwe tidawukankhira mpaka pano. Pamapeto pake zinali zomveka kukhala nazo ku Venice kuposa ku Paris, makamaka ndi Architecture Biennale-komanso ndi zosonkhanitsazo, zomwe zimasakanikirana ndi mphamvu zambiri za Saint Laurent ndi zambiri za Venetian 'New Romanticism.' Osati. kuziyika mu mbiri yakale, njira yachikale ya Venetian, koma m'malo amtsogolo. Ndikuganiza kuti pambuyo pa COVID mukufuna kuyang'ana zamtsogolo kuposa zam'mbuyomu - ndipo ndimakonda kusakanikirana kwakanthawi komwe kumawonekera pazovala, komanso zamtsogolo momwemo. ”
Pachiwonetsero chothamanga kwambiri mawonekedwewo amawonetsa mlengalenga wa buluu, kuwala kwa madzulo, ndi madzi a m'nyanja pamene kuunikira kwa Aitken kumasintha momwe anthu amakhalira nthawi ndi nthawi, kutanthauza kuti kutembenuka kwa dzuwa kumawomba kapena kutuluka kwa buluu ku Scandinavia. Poyang'aniridwa ndi magalasiwo, fuko la Vaccarello lidayenda pansi atavala ma jekete owonda kapena mabulawuzi owuluka (ganizirani za Adam Ant ndi Briteni koyambirira kwa 1980s New Romantics), ndi mathalauza amiyendo ya ndudu yokhala ndi nsapato zapakhosi zowonda motalikirabe.
Mukusintha kwakanthawi kobwereketsa kosalekeza kwa zovala zachikazi kuchokera muzovala zazimuna, Vaccarello adasangalalanso kuyang'ana zakale zosayerekezeka za Saint Laurent zobvala za akazi zomwe zitha kuperekedwa ndi anyamata, kuphatikiza malaya ajacquard crepe de malaya ndi malaya azaka zoyambirira za m'ma 70s. , ma jekete owerengeka odulidwa ndi ma spencers ochokera ku Saint Laurent's Picasso (Kugwa kwa 1979) ndi Jazz (Spring 1978), ndi bolero wopangidwa kuchokera ku China (Kugwa kwa 1977) adaganiziridwanso ngati wophulitsa bomba komanso kuvala ndi jeans yakuda, komanso nambala. za kusiyana kwa Le Smoking. Vaccarello adanenanso kuti "pali zinthu zambiri zomwe zidachokera ku zosonkhanitsa zanga zakale za amayi - zomwe zinali zokhazikika pamapeto pake," adatero, "monga malaya onse a lace, zidutswa za nyengo ziwiri kapena zitatu zapitazo."
Polemekeza mzinda womwe udachitikirawo panali sewero la zikondwerero zachiveneti zomwe zidalinso mu zipewa zowoneka bwino, kuphatikiza imodzi yowoneka bwino ya silika yachikasu yomwe idatulutsa chitsanzo chosawoneka bwino chomwe chikuwonetsedwa muwonetsero wa Saint Laurent's Fall 1983 haute couture show, (ndipo adagwedezeka ndi socialite Nan Kempner pa Costume). Institute gala yomwe idakondwerera wopanga). "Ndikuganiza kuti zinali zosangalatsa kuwona momwe mnyamata angaganizire," adatero Vaccarello ponena za malingaliro ake amadzimadzi, "Ndipo ndiyenera kunena kuti iwo ankaganiza mwachibadwa, [kaya] malaya a lace, kapena nsapato za nsanja."