ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Zovala za Fausto Puglisi zimagwirizana ndi ndondomeko yeniyeni, yodziwika kwambiri ya mafashoni a "Italiya": okongoletsedwa kwambiri, opangidwa ndi floridly, amitundu yowala, ndipo, kwa ambiri, pang'ono chabe. Ali kunyumba ku Florence, ndi palazzi yake yokongola komanso malo owoneka bwino aluso la Renaissance.
Mosasokoneza, Puglisi adasankha kuwonetsa pamalo okwerera masitima osagwiritsidwa ntchito. Mwina ndi chifukwa chakuti adaganiza zopereka chokongoletsera-phalanx ya matupi, amuna ndi akazi, ngati frieze ya Roma, adakwezedwa pamtengo ndikuvala zopereka zake zatsopano. Ndiko kuti, malo ake a Resort kwa iye, ndi zovala zake zachimuna ku Spring 2017. Anakhala pamodzi mwangwiro, m'dziko lapadera lomwe Puglisi ali nalo, monga Michelangelo mural kudzera ku Las Vegas, kapena oyambirira-'90s Gianni wamitundu yambiri. Makampeni a Versace omwe adawomberedwa ndi Richard Avedon. Azimayiwo ankavala madiresi aafupi, onyezimira amaluwa amitundumitundu okhala ndi masiketi otsetsereka otsetsereka kapena masiketi okongoletsedwa bwino omwe Puglisi amati ndi ake (letsani mkangano ndi cholowa cha Versace chomwe tatchulachi). Amuna onsewo ankaoneka ngati machismo akummwera kwa Italy—ochuluka kuposa ochepa anali ndi ndevu, akufanana kwambiri ndi Puglisi mwiniyo.
Zinkawoneka ngati zosagwirizana pang'ono - koma mwanjira ina sizinali zenizeni. Mutha kufotokozera mwachidule zovala za Puglisi ku Versace, komanso mawonekedwe atsopano operekedwa ndi Olivier Rousteing ku Balmain. Malemba onsewa amachita bizinesi mwachangu kwa amuna - ndipo ndi ochepa panjanji.
Funsani Puglisi chifukwa chake anasankha tsopano kusonyeza amuna, ndipo akugwedeza. "Ndinali kuyankhula ndi Selfridges, kapena Bergdorf Goodman, kapena Joyce, kapena Lane Crawford," adatero, akumangirira anthu anayi akuluakulu omwe anali nawo pa nyimbo zophulika zomwe zinatsagana ndi nkhani yake ya Pitti Uomo. Iwo anati, ‘Nanga bwanji za amuna? Chifukwa amuna ambiri akugula ziduswa zanu zazikazi.’ ” Mwachionekere pali mpata woti munthu winanso wosakhululukidwa, makamaka m’mafashoni aku Italy, ngakhale simunaganizepo kuti Puglisi ndi mlengi amene angatsogolere zovala zatsopano zosagwirizana ndi jenda. Makamaka pamene masomphenya ake aamuna ndi aakazi-amuna opopa-amuna omwe amaponyedwa muzovala zamasewera zonyezimira motsutsana ndi A-line ovala, akazi ovala zidendene-akuwoneka motalikirana ndi G.I. Joe ndi Barbie.
Ngakhale mtundu wa amuna omwe adzatulutsa ndalama zazikulu chifukwa cha chovala chachikazi chokhala ndi bedazzled ali, ngakhale lero, ochepa komanso ochepa, pali anyamata omwe adzakopeka ndi kukongola kwa Puglisi. “Amuna nthaŵi zambiri amakhala omasuka,” akutero mlengiyo. "Mkazi akuganiza kuti, 'Kodi ndine wokongola mokwanira? Ndine wachigololo kwambiri?’ Pamene mwamuna: Ngati umaikonda, umavala.” Ngati mungakonde Puglisi, mudzakhala mutavala majekete oponya mabomba opangidwa ndi siginecha yake yokongoletsedwa ya starfish ndi zipolopolo, mikanda yothira miyala yamtengo wapatali ya korali, T-shirts zodindidwa ndi zithunzi za milungu yachiroma kapena zipewa za Centurion, ndi nsapato za gladiator zodzaza ndi ma medalioni, kukulunga. mmwamba mwendo pansi pa zazifupi zosindikizidwa ndi maluwa a hothouse kapena denim shredded.
Zinali, ndizoyenera kunena, zonse pafupifupi pang'ono kwambiri. "Sindisamala zomwe zili zabwino komanso zoyipa," akutero Puglisi. Ndipo pali zina zomwe tinganene za momwe Puglisi amalowera ndi mtima wonse komanso wokhazikika m'masitayelo ambiri omwe angagwirizane motsimikizika pamapeto pake. Zimatsimikiziranso. Mwachirendo, ndikosavuta kuwona kasitomala wa zovala zake zachimuna kuposa za akazi ake, kotero kuti mawonekedwewo atha kusokonekera mosavuta kukhala zinthu zachiganizo chimodzi - bomba lokongoletsedwa, T-shirt yaifupi, yokongoletsedwa - ndikuphatikiza ndi zina (mwina, zokongoletsedwa pang'ono) zinthu. Mwina ndichifukwa choti mwamuna wa Puglisi siwodalirika ngati mkazi wake. Simungasangalale ndi ma jekete ake ochepa osavuta, ocheperako akulowa muzovala zake zachikazi, komwe kumawoneka kowoneka bwino sikumakhala ndi mantha, komanso chitsimikizo. Koma mwinamwake mkhalidwewo udzasinthidwa kwa ogulitsa malonda apamwamba; mukhoza kulingalira mkazi wa Puglisi akuviika mu zovala za mwamunayo chifukwa cha mabomba omwe ali ndi zipolopolo.