ndi ALEXANDER FURY
Kusintha kwa mawonekedwe, kusintha kwa liwiro. Wopanga zovala zachimuna woyitanidwa ndi Pitti Immagine kuti achite nawo chiwonetsero ku Florence cha Spring 2017 ndi Gosha Rubchinskiy.
Gosha Rubchinskiy
Wobadwa ku Moscow, wokhazikika, komanso wotengeka pang'ono, zosonkhanitsa zake mpaka pano zavumbulutsa mbiri yake yaku Soviet, ndikukumbukira nthawi yomwe chinsalu chisanagwe, komanso pambuyo pake. Adaperekanso zovala zamasewera ngati ersatz '80s zida za Olimpiki zaku Russia, komanso zovala zachinyamata zazaka zapakati pa'90s. Kodi Gosha akanatani ku Italy, komabe?
Choyamba, anapeza “nyumba yokhayo yooneka ngati Soviet ku Florence,” kubwereka mawu a wolemba masitayelo wake Lotta Volkova—fakitale ya fodya m’kalembedwe kapamwamba kolingalira bwino, yomangidwa m’ma 1930 ndipo inasiyidwa zaka 15 zapitazo. Nyumba zambiri za nyumbayo zinali zitawonongeka, chiwonetserocho chinachitikira m'bwalo lomwe lili m'malire ndi konkriti wothimbirira komanso mazenera osweka. Zinaperekanso maziko a filimu yaifupi ya Renata Litvinova-Rubchinskiy ndi Volkova nawonso. Filimuyi idaperekedwa kwa "Pier Paolo".
Pasolini anali kudzoza kofunikira kwa Rubchinskiy-moyo ndi imfa ya munthu mwiniyo, komanso zotsatira zake za kulenga. Iye anali wachikominisi, chifukwa chimodzi, chomwe mosakayikira chinakopa chidwi cha Rubchinskiy's Eastern Bloc (ndiyenso, momwemonso Miuccia Prada). Kugonana mochenjera komwe kumawonekera nthawi zambiri m'mawonetsero a Rubchinskiy kunali kowonekera bwino: Mtundu woyamba, wopanda chifuwa pansi pa suti ya pinstripe, ukhoza kuyimirira pachibwenzi cha Pasolini Ninetto Davoli, kapena Pino Pelosi, 17- Hustler wazaka zakubadwa yemwe adavomereza kupha kwake mu 1975.
Ngati Rubchinskiy adanenanso za mibadwo ya achinyamata aku Soviet m'zaka zapitazi, ragazzi ya ku Italy iyi idawoneka yolumikizidwa kwambiri ndi zenizeni za misewu yamakono Rubchinskiy yathandizira kwambiri ku-ndiko, magulu ankhondo ovala mumsewu amavala amuna amasiku ano. Wopangayo adawonetsa maubwenzi angapo ndi kabati yowona ya zovala zamasewera zaku Italy zomwe ndi Fila, Kappa, ndi Sergio Tacchini. Kubwereza kulikonse, kuphatikiza zinthu zakale zamtunduwo ndi chizindikiro cha Rubchinskiy, zinali ndi malingaliro achinyengo amsika wakuda. Zowonadi, zinali zitachitika chiwonetserochi (poyang'ana zilembo, ndikufunsa anthu oyenera mafunso olondola) kuti mutha kudziwa ngati ma sweatshirt amtundu wa Canal Street okhala ndi logo ya serpentine ya Fila ndi dzina la Gosha losokedwa pansipa pachizindikiro cha Cyrillic anali enieni kapena opangidwa- khulupirirani. Ambiri amatsikira ku kampu yomaliza. More kuwapusitsa. Panalinso kugwirizana ndi Levi kuti apange Gosha-brand denim ndi jekete za corduroy.
Zoposa zonse zamagulu ena a Rubchinskiy, izi zimagwirizana ndi lingaliro la zovala za zovala: masewera a masewera, ndithudi, koma kodi moyo wonse wa anthu suli wokonzekera masewera othamanga? Zoyimilira mu kuwonekera koyamba kugulu kwa Rubchinskiy ku Italy zinali, chodabwitsa, zidutswa zokongoletsedwa, kuzungulira chipinda cha mnyamata wake, kupereka makasitomala ake okhulupirika chinachake chatsopano, ndipo mwinamwake ngakhale kupeza magazi atsopano. Pinstripe yotsegulira, majekete a velveti okhala ndi mawere awiri, odulidwa molimba mtima komanso otambalala paphewa, anali ndi kukhudza kwa mlengi wina wotsogola ku mawonekedwe awo odabwitsa. Giorgio Armani. Ndi zomwe simunayembekezere za Gosha. Ndithudi chinali chinachake chimene iye sanasonyezepo kale.
Nyengo yatha, Rubchinskiy adatchula kutha kwa kuzungulira, ndi chiyambi cha chinthu chatsopano. Mwina izi zikutanthauza kuchoka pamalo ake omwe amapondapo nthawi zonse, mwaluso komanso mwakuthupi. Kusintha kwa Florence kukuwoneka kuti kwasintha luso lake. Icho chinachikweza giya.