Kumayambiriro kwa chaka chino, a Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation adalumikizana ndi Raf Simons. Iwo anamufunsa ngati angafune kugwira nawo ntchito pa chinachake. Iye anati inde. Uwu ndiye nkhani yachidule ya nkhani yomwe adapereka ku Pitti Immagine Uomo, wosangalatsidwa bwino ndi mawonetsero awiri a Mapplethorpe ku LACMA ndi Getty Museum, ndi zolemba za HBO zotchedwa Onani Zithunzi. Inali nthawi yoyenera. Ndipo Simons ndi wokonda Mapplethorpe, kotero anali wojambula bwino. "Ndinalemekezedwa," adatero Simons pambuyo pawonetsero, mawu ake akunjenjemera ndi malingaliro. Chifukwa chake adayimitsa lingaliro lomwe anali kugwirirapo ntchito kuti asonkhanitse (sakanaulula chomwe chinali; mwina, adatero, tuluka m'chiwonetsero chamtsogolo) ndikuyamba mgwirizano wake waposachedwa.
Nthawi zambiri, Simons akamagwira ntchito ndi wojambula, amawafikira. Panthawiyi, mphamvuyi inali itasintha. Kuwolowa manja kwa zopereka za Mapplethorpe Foundation kumawoneka mwa kuwolowa manja kwa kutanthauzira kwa Simons: Palibe chovala mu Simons's Spring 2017 chisonyezero chomwe sichikhala ndi chithunzi chojambula cha Mapplethorpe. Zitsanzo zake zazimuna zatsitsi lopiringizika, zokhala ndi zisoti zanjinga zopindika mokopa, nthawi zambiri zinkafanana kwambiri ndi wojambulayo—ngakhale kuti Simons ananena kuti, m’malo mwa ojambula zithunzi, “mnyamata aliyense amaimira ntchito inayake.” Aliyense akhoza kukhala Mapplethorpe sitter. Mashati othamanga anali ndi mithunzi ya mbiri yakale ya Mapplethorpe Patti Smith pachivundikiro cha Album yake ya Mahatchi. Robert Sherman, wojambula yemwe alopecia adapangitsa khungu lake kukhala lofanana ndi miyala ya marble muzithunzi zake zambiri zojambulidwa ndi Mapplethorpe, adapezekanso pawonetsero. Simons adayenera kuchotsa ufulu wachipani chachitatu ndi onse okhalamo asanapangenso zithunzi zawo. Zinayamba kukambirana zomwe zinachititsa kuti amizedwe pa gawo la Simons mu ntchito ya Mapplethorpe.
Izi zikunenedwa, wojambulayo adakhala yekha kwambiri. Mapplethorpe anali munthu wochititsa chidwi, ndipo zojambulajambula ndizosawerengeka kuchokera kwa munthu. "Mukaganizira za ntchitoyi, ndi yochuluka za iye," adatero Simons, ndipo, ndithudi, zinali zambiri za zovala zomwe ankavala, nayenso. Paulendo wodziwonetsa okha, zithunzi zambiri zoyambirira za Mapplethorpe zinali zojambula za Polaroid, zokongoletsedwa ndi zida zachikopa, kuyesa malire a zosangalatsa ndi zowawa. Pambuyo pake, adalemba zamatsenga zake zachiwerewere; mawonekedwe achikopa ndi BDSM makamaka. Zovala zinali zofunikira kwambiri: Panthawi ina, Mapplethorpe anayamba kutambasula zovala zake zamkati (zovala) kudutsa mafelemu amatabwa kuti apange ziboliboli zosavomerezeka; kenako anavala chikopa chakuda.
Simons amadziwa zonsezo. Chifukwa chake ulemu wake kwa Mapplethorpe unkawoneka wozungulira kwambiri, wokonda komanso wowona. Kuchenjera kwa maumboni angapo a Simons kunapatsa chiwonetsero chakuya-phale lake lakuda; woyera; mitundu yamitundu yofiira, yofiirira, yofiirira; ndi burgundy wa magazi coagulated; zikopa zachikopa zonyezimira ndi zomangira zachitsulo. Simons adakhala masana awiri akudutsa m'malo osungiramo mabuku a Mapplethorpe. Adalimbana ndi mawu achingerezi kuti afotokoze izi: Adawatcha "mapu," lomwe ndi lingaliro losangalatsa komanso lopatsa chidwi kwambiri likagwiritsidwa ntchito pakusaka kwa Simons, kuti apeze gawo latsopano la Mapplethorpe, kuti amve kuti ndi wofunikira komanso wosangalatsa kwa m'badwo watsopano. . Ndi zomwe adawona udindo wake.
Ndinenso wokonda Mapplethorpe. Sindinachitire mwina koma kugwirizana ndi chiwonetserochi ku chidwi cha Mapplethorpe ndi mafelemu, ndikupereka chithunzi chake cha mbali zitatu, chiboliboli chojambula popanga ma velveti owoneka bwino ndi matabwa akunja, kumata zithunzi ku zinthu. Kupanga zithunzi zake zambiri kuposa momwe zingawonekere poyamba. Simons adapanga zithunzi za Mapplethorpe ndi nsalu, koma kenako adaziyikanso pathupi: chithunzi chosindikizidwa pamasamba, tinene, chokwera ndi makatani a malaya a jekete, kapena kuwululidwa pa T-sheti pansi pa sweti lotayirira. Simons amakopeka ndi zithunzi za maluwa za Mapplethorpe, zithunzi zake zodziwika bwino za anthu otchuka monga Debbie Harry, yemwe adagwidwa ndi kuwala kowala, komanso ojambula omwe Simons nawonso amawasilira, monga Alice Neel, adajambulidwa sabata imodzi kapena kupitilira apo asanamwalire. chodabwitsa cha 1984 chithunzi. Kugonana kunali mmenemo, nakonso; Simons anaumirira pa izo. Jekete lokhala pansi losakumbukika linatembenuzidwa kuti liwonetse chithunzi cha phallus yokhazikika.
Anagwiritsanso ntchito mawu akuti “curation” pofotokoza chiwonetserochi: “Ndinkafuna kuti chifike ngati chiwonetsero chamyuziyamu, kapena chiwonetsero chazithunzi. Zomwe zachitika nthawi zambiri zikafika pantchito ya Mapplethorpe. Cindy Sherman anachita izo, David Hockney anachita izo. Koma nthawi zonse amakhala mu gallery. ” Simons anakwinya. “Ndine wopanga mafashoni. Ndinkaganiza kuti vuto lalikulu lingakhale kuchita zimenezi m’dera langa.”
Kusungirako kunapanga lingaliro lochititsa chidwi, makamaka panthawi yomwe okonza ambiri amayenerera ndi kutchula popanda ngongole-ndipo pamene anthu ambiri amatchula mawu oti "curate." Ndichiwonetsero cha chikhalidwe cha Simons-waulemu, chete, wokwezeka mwaluntha-kuti adawona zosonkhanitsazi osati monga zomwe adapanga ndi zithunzi za Mapplethorpe, koma monga mgwirizano wofanana ndi chiwonetsero chazithunzi, pomwe gawo lake linali, gawo lina, labwino kwambiri. kuwonetsa ntchito zomwe adapatsidwa. Koma kunalinso kugwilitsila nchito mabuku amenewo kukamba nkhani yatsopano, yokondweletsa, ndi yodzutsa maganizo. Kuti atiwonetse china chatsopano kuchokera ku zodziwika bwino, komanso zowoneka bwino, zakale za Mapplethorpe. Zimene iye mosakayikira anachita.