Nibyemewe. Imyambarire yimyambarire yimyidagaduro ni ingendo-synonyme, mubyukuri, birihuta cyane kugirango dusobanure inzererezi, ingendo, ijisho ryabashushanya. Hano hari bitatu mubikorwa, aho ngaho. Icyo gitekerezo cyo kugenda udahwema ntabwo ari isoko yo guhumuriza Kim Jones-ni inzira y'ubuzima. Numuntu wafashwe ninzererezi, umugabo wagiye mubuyapani wenyine inshuro zirenga 70 mumyaka icumi ishize, nahantu henshi usibye.
Gukomeza na Jones nakazi katoroshye. Birakwiye, ashinzwe gutegura imyenda y'abagabo ya Louis Vuitton, inzu yashinze raison d'être yari igitekerezo cya voyager. Ni gake cyane ariko aho bikurikira hamwe na Jones, iyo bigeze kuri inspiration. Amashusho akora ingendo.
Bigenda bite rero ko muri saison itaha Jones yahisemo kudahunga, ahubwo akagaruka? Iserukiramuco rye Louis Vuitton ntabwo ryerekanaga ingendo-ahubwo, gutaha. Muburyo busanzwe bwa Jonesian, ibyo ntaho bihuriye n'akarere kamwe, ahubwo ni batatu: Afrika, aho yakuriye; London, aho yize; na Paris, aho atuye kandi akorera ubu.
Babiri ba nyuma ni bo bagaragaye cyane: Afurika, isoko y’uruhu ruhebuje rw’ingona na ostrich, cheque yahumetswe na Masai, hamwe na savanna-yera, umusenyi-impumyi palette yiganjemo buff, taupe, na ecru (twakwita beige); naho Londres yatanze abapanki. Jones yagize ati: "Buri gihe hariho ikintu gito Londres yihishe ahantu runaka." Mubyukuri, hari byinshi. Jones ni umuntu ukusanya ibintu byinshi byibukwa mu mutwe - imbaga ye ya Vivienne Westwood hamwe na Malcolm McLaren yavuye mu mibonano mpuzabitsina na Seditionaries ku mwanya wa kabiri, harimo n'inzu ndangamurage - kandi yarayikoresheje neza nk'ibikoresho byakoreshwaga mu bucakara. ipantaro, D-impeta, hamwe nimbwa, nubwo byarangiye muburyo bwigifaransa. Iyo mbwa y'imbwa, mubyukuri, yari archive ya Vuitton, ikunze gukoreshwa muri pisine, yitwa "Baxter."
Nibintu bidasanzwe, byambukiranya imipaka byatumye iki cyegeranyo kiba zing. Tuvuge iki kuri cheque nyafurika igereranya tartan muri utwo tuntu duto duto? Cyangwa ko ibisobanuro byingirakamaro bya pank bihujwe, kuri Jones, kumikorere yibikorwa byamateka ya Vuitton, clips no gufatisha imitwe gakondo. Umwiyahuzi wijimye wijimye mu cyorezo cya pomply kiranga ostrich yihishe yibutsa umugani wa kera: Punk ni nko kunyunyuza ibibanza. Usibye, niba aba Vuitton barikumwe, byari kuba muri spa muri Champneys. Noneho hariho ukuri ko imitwe yitwaga "Plastique Peculiars" kandi igitekerezo kivuga ko, mubwinyangamugayo, canvasi ya Vuitton yubatswe ni ubwoko bwa plastiki bwubahwa (kandi buhenze cyane). Jones yari afite ibintu bifatika muri iki gitaramo, kandi, imyobo ya reberi yometse kuri monogramu ya LV hanyuma icapishwa na menagerie yinyamaswa zahinduwe zandikwa ninshuti zuwashushanyije hamwe nabakoranye na Jake na Dinos Chapman.
Gutaha bisobanura iki? Ikimenyane. Mugihe udashaka kubyita icyegeranyo gikomeye cya hits, cyaragabanutse kandi kivuga kubitekerezo Jones yakoze ubushakashatsi mugihe cyose yamaze murugo. Ibyo bicapo bya Chapman byari bimwe; umunya nyafurika agenzura indi, yatangijwe kumugaragaro imyaka itanu kugeza muri shampiyona, yongeye gukora uyumunsi ariko iramenyekana. Igihe inyamaswa zo mu bwoko bwa Chapman zo muri Chapman zagendagendaga ku buntu, zari hakurya ya monogramu ya Vuitton ihumekwa na igishushanyo mbonera cy'umwimerere, cyashizweho mu 1896-umuzi wa monogramu, nk'uko Jones yakoze ubushakashatsi ku mizi ye.
Mubyukuri, urwo nirwo rugendo Jones yahisemo kutujyana muri iki gihembwe - munsi yibuka, ibye ndetse na Louis Vuitton. Imiterere yimifuka yakuwe mububiko-Steamer yabaye igikapu; a '70s-duffel style yitwa Randonnee yabonye igitambara gishya; imitiba ya Valise yaje gusohoka muri springbok cyangwa zebra amashanyarazi-ubururu. Ibintu byo gutaha byavuyemo kwerekana ibyiyumvo, wenda, bishyushye kuruta label iheruka gusohoka; rwose birenze kugiti cyawe, byanze bikunze urebye Jones ihuza amasomo ari hafi. Ibyo byayihaye izindi ngaruka, kuri glossy veneer yo gukundwa mumaso. Yayihaye ubujyakuzimu, buroroshye cyane mugihe ukemura ibibazo byacukuwe neza mbere.
Jones yerekanaga uyumunsi ntabwo yazamuye cyane nkuko pontontualize pank. Yerekanaga icyo kwigomeka bishobora gusobanura, munzu y'ibicuruzwa byiza byo mu kinyejana cya 21. Amaso azazamurwa - ariko kwigomeka ntabwo ari ukubona indaya ziyogoshesha, zifite umutekano muke wa pank zasabwe nkimyenda yabagabo ya Vuitton, ariko uwashushanyije yahaye umudendezo wo kubitanga. Mubintu bigenda byuzura ibintu byiza cyane, niyo mpamvu iki gitaramo cyagaragaye.