Alexander McQueen Impeshyi / Impeshyi 2016 London

Anonim

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016191

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016192

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016193

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016194

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016195

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016196

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016197

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016198

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016199

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016200

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016201

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016202

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016203

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016204

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016205

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016206

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016207

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016208

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016209

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016210

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016211

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016212

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016213

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016214

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016215

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016216

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016217

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016218

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016219

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016220

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016221

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016222

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016223

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRINGSUMMER 2016224

Uyu munsi, Samuel Taylor Coleridge yise “Rhyme of the kera Mariner” yibutse ubwo twibonaga igitaramo cya Sarah Burton kuri The Arches muri Southwark uyu munsi. Ibishushanyo mbonera, ibiremwa by'imigani, n'ubudozi bwa Edwardian byavugaga urugendo rudasanzwe ku nyanja. Ibyiyumvo byugarije akaga byakwirakwiriye mubyinshi mu bitaramo bya Lee McQueen byiganje mu mucyo utukura w’umwanya kuko urusaku ruteye ubwoba rwinjiye mu majwi no hanze. Hamwe nimurikagurisha ryubwiza bwa Savage riracyakomeje mungoro ndangamurage ya Victoria & Albert, biragoye gufata ibyerekanwa uyumunsi agaciro keza utabanje guhambira romantisme yijimye yihishe hamwe nibitekerezo byamakimbirane yimbere imbere yibuka Lee. Niba ibimenyetso byari mubutumire, hariho ifoto yumugabo wumuteramakofe wa Victorian pastiche yanditseho amagambo ya Bright Eyes yishushanyijeho ku ntoki: “Iyo ibintu byose ari wenyine, nshobora kuba inshuti yanjye magara.” Insanganyamatsiko yo kwiherera ni imwe ikunze gusangirwa munzira nyabagendwa za McQueen, Coleridge, na Mariner - kandi nanone bibaho kuba ijwi ryumvikana cyane mucyegeranyo.

Imbaraga zayo, nkuko byari bimeze muri saison ishize, yari muburyo bwo guca. Gufungura neza kwa optique kugaragara hamwe nubudozi bwa Victorian hejuru yigituza byumvikanaga kwizihiza Sarah Burton kwizihiza ubwitonzi bwashize. Tuvugishije ukuri, abasare muri iki gihe basaga nkaho batameze neza, ariko byafashe inzira kubice byinshi. Icyerekezo cya Cardinal icyerekezo hamwe na ankeri zishushanyije pajama ihujwe na cola ya pisine; icyuma cy'icyuma cyacumise peaco nini cyane; n'imirongo ya nautical yakuweho, irashwanyaguzwa, kandi ishushanyijeho imyenda yo kurya. Habaho kijyambere kubudozi tutigeze tubona mugihe gito: hemlines yarahinzwe, ikibuno kirahina, hamwe nibisobanuro (nkumufuka) birenze-kilteri. Iyerekana crescendo-ed mu matsinda atatu ashize hamwe namaraso yuzuye yerekana ibikoko byo mu nyanja bitangaje kuva ku ikarita ya Medieval yo mu kinyejana cya 16 na 17 byari kuba byoroshye kuza mu migani ya Coleridge. Ikanzu ya regency yafunze igitaramo yahagaritse icyegeranyo mugihe cyiza; kwiruka byari byiza cyane.

Nkuko bigenda, Burton azahorana umurage wa Lee McQueen yegereye inzu. Ariko ubuhanga bwe mukwegera kumutima wabafana ba Lee cyane, abinyujije mubuhanga bwa nostalgia namakinamico, akwiye gushimirwa. Igitaramo cy'uyu munsi cyerekanaga ubushobozi bwa Burton bwo gukuramo imyenda itangaje cyane twavuga ko ari ibuye rikomeye ry'umurimo wa Lee - ikindi gikorwa cyiza kibaho kugeza aho inzu ihagaze.

51.5073509-0.1277583

Soma byinshi