Thom Browne Menswear Yaguye / Itumba 2019 Paris

Anonim

Reba inzira ya Thom Browne Yabagabo Yagwa 2019 yerekanwe kuri Beaux-Arts de Paris.

Umudozi wumuhanga muri iki gitaramo gishimishije yatanze urukurikirane rwimyenda irambuye ikozwe mubice byikoti.

Mw'izina rirambye, Thom Browne yabanje kwerekana ibintu byiza, azenguruka ahazabera - yashyizwe muri École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts - mu gupfunyika, ibyicaro birimo. Tutibagiwe n'urugendo rwimibare isa na farawo yafunguye igitaramo.

Browne, nawe Saran yapfunyitse mu maso h'icyitegererezo, yari ashishikajwe no kutabyumva cyane. Yongeyeho ati: "Byari ibyo kwishimisha gusa." Ati: "Dukoresha ibipfunyika mu kohereza ibicuruzwa mbere na mbere, bityo rero bifata cyane cyane ibyo dukoresha kubwimpamvu zikoreshwa hanyuma tukabishyira mubikorwa."

Umuyobozi w'ikinamico - kuri iyi nshuro arusha imbaraga ubushobozi bwe bwo gutwara abamwumva mu isi ibangikanye - umudozi w'umuhanga, ufite ubucuruzi butera imbere ndetse na nyir'umushinga mushya, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, na we akunda gufata umuhanda nk'imyitozo muri Imiterere. Hano yafashe urukundo rwimyambarire yuburyo bwa mirongo itanu aruturitsa imyenda na fantasia yambukiranya.

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Yakinnye mu bice bitatu, ifungura hamwe na feminised, corseted spins on the classic classique, ikoresheje imyenda gakondo "nziza yumugore" nka tweede yo guhiga icyongereza, ubwoya bwa Shetland, Harris tweeds no guteza imbere amafaranga ya gisirikare.

Reba harimo amakoti yuburyo bwa Mary Poppins arimo ibintu byabagore nkibikoresho byubwoya ku ntoki, hamwe nudukariso twabigenewe twahinduye amajipo maremare yimbere, hamwe nuwabishushanyijeho, agabanya umubiri wikoti risanzwe rya bombe, kuvuga, kugirango akore isp. -ingaruka

Ubukurikira haje ijisho-uburiganya trompe l'oeil verisiyo yo kwambara, amashati na karuvati. Hanyuma, mugihe utekereje ko uzabibona byose, yajyanye kurundi rwego hamwe nuruhererekane rwimyenda irambuye ikozwe mubice bya koti ikozwe hamwe hanyuma ikazenguruka umubiri, igenda hagati ya trompe l'oeils nukuri imyenda idoda. hamwe. Browne yashoje agira ati: “Byasaga nkaho ari byiza, byiza, byiza.”

Thom Browne Impeshyi / Impeshyi 2019 Paris

Yakomeje agira ati: "Birashimishije kubona uko abagabo bambara ubu kandi ndatekereza ko imyambarire y'abagore nyayo, y'abagore ishimishije rwose muri iki gihe." kubagira igitsina gore cyane, ”nkumwambaro wa nimugoroba. Browne yashimangiye ati: “Kuba uzi neza ko ukoresha buri kintu cyose gisa n'imbere wabonye imbere.” Ati: “Birambye cyane, byumvikana cyane.”

Umukino wanyuma wari ufite igitambaro cyo gupfunyika hejuru-yambaye ikanzu yerekana moderi yerekana ibipupe byambaye neza na kopi yimyambarire yari imaze kugaragara kumuhanda. Yashimangiye urwego rwa couture yicyegeranyo.

Ubwiza: #isamayafrench

Umusatsi: #eugenesouleiman

Soma byinshi