Twakinnye umukino wa videwo ya Demna Gvasalia yo gukusanya kugwa kwa Balenciaga 2021: Dore uko byagenze.
Umwigisha w'imyiyerekano yimyambarire, Demna Gvasalia yongeye guhumbya hamwe no kwerekana icyegeranyo cye cya Balenciaga aheruka gukina umukino wa videwo wa bespoke witwa “Afterworld: The Age of Ejo.” Byatumaga abantu basanzwe bafite imico ituje berekeza mu mujyi wa New York ahagana mu 2031, kugeza na n'ubu hafunzwe na karitsiye hamwe n'amagare y'ibiryo - hamwe na drone zimurika hamwe na bisi 7 zigenda zijya mu kirere.
Ku wa gatanu, Balenciaga yohereje na Oculus VR na terefone hamwe n’urwandiko rwijimye, rwumuhondo rwagaragazaga mildew na patchouli, bishushanya umukino ukwirakwiza ubutwari bwo mu myaka yo hagati hagati ya dystopiya iri hafi hifashishijwe amafoto yerekana ubuhanga hamwe nubundi buhanga bwikoranabuhanga.
Kimwe na Jonathan Anderson yerekana-mu-gasanduku igitekerezo cye bwite na Loewe, umukino wasabye kwihangana n'imbaraga, harimo ubwoba bwo kwiruka mububiko bworohereza bateri za AA kugirango zikoreshe abagenzuzi ba handike. Ndetse na desktop ya verisiyo yumukino irashobora kuba ingorabahizi kubashya: Biragaragara ko avatar ishobora gukandagirwa na ottoman muri Zone 1, guhumeka hafi yububiko bunini bwa Balenciaga bwashyizwe mumwanya wa parikingi-garage.
Itangazo rigenewe abanyamakuru kubyerekeye umukino, bivugwa ko ariwo mushinga munini wa videwo nini cyane wigeze ukora, usobanura urukurikirane rw'imirimo n'imikoranire. . Hano, urugendo rwarushijeho gutekereza, binyuze mumijyi yangirika, ishyamba ryubumaji rifite ubuyobozi bwurukwavu rwera hamwe nibirori byera kumusozi utangaje.
Gusa kunyura muri zone eshanu - aho umuntu ahurira numuhanzi Eliza Douglas, muri Joan wuzuye wa Arc regaliya, akubita inkota mumabuye - yumvaga ari intsinzi ubwayo. Imyitozo yo guhumeka byihuse - igihembo cyo kurangiza umukino - yari amavuta yo kwakirwa kumitsi.
Kandi ni nako icyegeranyo cyabonaga Gvasaliya ifata gutegeka siloettes nini cyane hamwe na tropes yimyenda yo mumuhanda, hano yashizwemo amabara meza, imyenda yimyenda hamwe no gukata nka couture. Ikintu gikomeye cyumukino wa videwo, iyo umaze kureka byihutirwa kugirango unyureho, ni ubushobozi bwo guhagarara no kugenzura imyenda yose uhereye impande zose. Urashobora gushima ikibanza cyimbere cyimitwe yintoki; trapeze ikata kuri swatshirt; lap apron - yatijwe muri scooter - ifatanye imbere yimyenda idakabije, cyangwa udushushanyo twinshi ku mwenda wuzuye, silver-y turtleneck.
Imyenda yo hanze yari nziza cyane, uhereye kuri parike yinyama hamwe nabatera ibisasu hamwe na NASA hamwe na shitingi, ibitugu biturutse ku rutugu kugeza ikote ryuzuye igitambaro, ryuzuyeho igitambaro gitambitse mumaso. Ibintu bizwi byahawe verve nshya binyuze mugutinyuka gukata, nko muri supersized, nyamara nziza cyane T-shati; imyenda idasanzwe, nka jersey yajanjaguye kugirango idoda cyane, cyangwa ivangitirane, nko mu ikariso yambarwa yambarwa hejuru yinkweto za feza zishushanyijeho intwaro zo mu gihe cyo hagati.
Ibirango byakoreshwaga cyane kandi bisekeje, harimo nimyandikire ya Playstation 5 yanditseho amaboko yikariso, cyangwa T-shati yinginga uwambaye, nibaboneka, bajyanwa mububiko bwa Balenciaga.
Mu kiganiro abinyujije kuri e-mail, Gvasalia yavuze ko yemera ko "imyambarire ari ugukunda imyenda" no kuyikoresha nk "intwaro za kijyambere" kugirango ifashe abantu kwerekana imyifatire n'imico. Yatangiye gukusanya mbere muri Nzeri (yahinduye gahunda y'ibihe vuba aha) igitekerezo cyo gukora imyenda mishya isa neza.
Yabisobanuye agira ati: “Habayeho ubushakashatsi bwuzuye bwo kuvura gusaza ku myenda myinshi.” Ati: "Nizera ko imikoreshereze irambye kandi ifite ubwenge mu bihe biri imbere izadutera inkunga yo kwambara imyenda yacu kugeza igihe izasenyuka kandi ikangirika, bityo iki cyegeranyo cyuzuyemo imyenda isa n'ishaje, mu buryo runaka yambarwa kandi yangiritse neza."
Yakoze kandi ubuhanga bwo kuzamuka: gutemagura imyenda isigaye no kuyishushanya ku ikoti yo hasi kugirango abahe isura, yuzuye ubwoya. Nkuko yasohoye bwa nyuma, ibyinshi mu byegeranyo bifatwa nka unisex na uni-size, ikoresha ibikoresho birambye byuzuye: 93.3 ku ijana byazo, kugirango bibe byiza.
Gvasalia yavuze ko yahisemo imiterere y'imikino ya videwo muri Mata umwaka ushize, maze avumbura ko gukora imwe bisa na haute couture, ateganya gukemura muri Nyakanga itaha.
Yatangaye ati: “Urema isi yose uhereye ku ntangiriro - ni ubuhe bwoko bw'ibiti washyizemo, hamwe n'ibibabi kuri byo, ni ubuhe bwoko bw'izuba rirenze?” “Kugira ngo umukino ugaragare neza kandi ushyira mu gaciro, ugomba rwose gusuzuma buri kantu kose.”
Nubwo bigoye gukina umukino, yavuze ko ahanini akina amarushanwa yimodoka "mugihe gito mugihe akora murugo kuko bimfasha guhagarika no kugarura ubwonko bwanjye, bityo bigira ingaruka nkubwunzi, nuburyo bukoreshwa muburyo bwo gukina mumikino yanjye rubanza ”. Ati: “Ariko nashimishijwe cyane n'uburanga bw'imikino ya videwo n'uburyo bwateye imbere kuva muri mirongo cyenda kugeza ubu.”
“Afterworld” byiswe “adventure allegorical” byometse kuri “amateka ya kera ndetse n'ibiteganijwe ejo hazaza” aho intwari igaragara nk'umutware w'isi ibiri.
Biragaragara ko intwari za Gvasaliya ari nyinshi.
Ati: "Nyogokuru, ababyeyi banjye n'umugabo wanjye Loick ni intwari zanjye bwite mu bihe byose". Ati: "Mu migani ni Achilles, kuko nkunda intwari ifite intege nke ariko ziteje akaga. Mu mateka, ni Joan wa Arc kuko ari ikimenyetso cyubusore budashira ubutwari nubutwari. Kandi mu gukina, ni Aloy wo muri 'Horizon Zero Umuseke' kuko ari umunyamahanga, nkanjye. ”