Imyenda iba igitsina rwose binyuze mu kwangirika kwa John Galliano kuri Maison Margiela Yiteguye Kwambara Kugwa / Itumba 2019 Paris.
Ku wa gatatu, “Swan Lake” yabyimbye mu batanze ibiganiro muri iki gitaramo ubwo itsinda ry’abanyamideli ryerekanaga ubutunzi bushya bwo kudoda bwanditseho ibicapo.
John Galliano yaribeshye muganira ku cyegeranyo cye cyo kugwa kwa Maison Margiela. Mu gice giheruka cya "Kwibuka kwa ..." podcast aho anyura muri inspirations hamwe nibikorwa bijya muri buri cyegeranyo, arangiza akoresheje ijwi ryumvikana neza. Ati: "Ntabwo ari ibicuruzwa byarangiye. Ni urugendo. ”
Nibyo, urugendo rwo gushakisha, kuvumbura no kubimenya ni ngombwa, cyane cyane kubuhanga nyabwo nka Gallliano. Ariko iyi ni imyambarire, kandi ibicuruzwa byanyuma ni imyenda. Ibyo basa kumurongo wanyuma bifite akamaro kanini, byibuze kubashaka inyungu zubucuruzi. Ibya Galliano byari byiza - bikomeye kandi bikozwe neza muri minimalisme igoye yakuye mumitwaro iremereye yumutwe byerekanaga ko yayobewe mubyegeranyo bye bya Mutarama Artisanal.
Aho guhuha kubwinshi bwibihe byinshi, nkuko byagenze m.o. hamwe na motif zashize, Galliano yihutishije inzira kugirango ikemurwe. Muri podcast, avuga kubyerekeranye n'inzira byanze bikunze ya decadence, kuva kurenza urugero kugeza kubora mugushakisha ukuri Millennial ishaka. Binyuze mu kwangirika, ibintu bifatika birashobora kugabanuka kubintu byera, kandi ubwo bwari uburyo bwe hano. Wabonye?
Ntabwo aribyo byose. Amajwi yavugaga ngo "Ikiyaga cya Swan." Niko Galliano yabigenje kuri podcast ye, nubwo uzigama ikintu cyangwa bibiri, ntiwaba ufite ibimenyetso udafite amagambo ya Cliff Notes. .
Icyo cyegeranyo cyari kigamije mubyukuri: imyenda myiza, ishimishije cyane, yasohotse muri cacophony ya couture irenze, ishema ryubatswe neza.
Akenshi ibi byarimo ubudozi bwo kudoda, bwakoraga nkibintu byo gushushanya no kwibutsa ubuhanga buhanitse mugukora iyi myenda. Benshi mumurongo wari wijimye, urigaragura ndetse, hamwe nigitekerezo cya Yohji muri silhouettes ikomeye ikozwe mumyambarire yabagabo ba kera bambara tweed, flannels na herringbones.
Ibyibandwaho byari kuri silhouette, kandi ubwo buryo bwubatswe-bwubatswe Galliano afite bwo guhindura ikote rya flannel mukwambara cyangwa gutwara ipantaro muri bustier na skirt.
Ariko nanone byari bijyanye nuburyo bwo guhindura ibintu byubaka: uburyo igitugu cyanyeganyega cyumukara wa Crombie cyaremye ishusho yikizenga; cyangwa burya ikiboko mumyenda itandukanye hamwe no gukabya gukabije, birebire kandi byuzuye kuruta uko byari byitezwe, amakoti n'amakoti byahinduwe kuva kera kugeza kumyambarire; cyangwa uburyo igitambaro cyibumoso cyafashe trope imenyerewe ahantu hashya. Ikoti ry'umukara utamenyereye? Wowe betcha, muri chiffon yubururu hejuru ya wadding yera, wambaye ikote ryirabura Mackintosh.
Nyamara iki cyegeranyo nticyari kigamije gusa. Bimwe bisa nkibikorwa bitandukanye cyane, motif yatangijwe nubushishozi mubwiza bwimyambarire, neoprene yumukara imbere hamwe nudushumi twiza inyuma. Ingingo: guhungabanya imigenzo, kandi Galliano yinjiye byose ashyiraho ibipapuro byanditseho vibrant byerekana flamingo ishyushye (kwimuka hejuru, wowe haute poodles yubururu) imbere yimyenda ya herringbone hamwe namakoti yinyuma namakoti. Kandi ni ubuhe buryo busanzwe burenze ikanzu ya Harris yabagabo? Gusa Galliano yarayikatiye mu ikoti rigufi, ryuzuye agasanduku, ikibaho cyayo cya flamingo gishushanyijeho gihuza ipantaro ya jacquard yambaye uruhu hamwe n'inkweto z'uruhu, kandi yambarwa n'umugabo wo mu isanzure rya Galliano ridafite igitsina.
Muri rusange umwuka wari utuje, ariko muri ibyo, Galliano yarasetsa, rimwe na rimwe akajyana imyenda n'abamuteze amatwi. Umuntu arashobora rwose kugura mubushakashatsi bwe kugirango abone ukuri muri decadence; ntamuntu numwe umuhanga kumurusha-ibitekerezo byimbitse. Cyangwa umuntu yakumva gusa ashimishijwe no kubona iyo kote nziza yo kugura kugwa gutaha kandi akagira iteka. Inzira zose, urugendo rwa Galliano nibicuruzwa byanyuma birakwiye rwose urugendo.