Virgil Abloh yateguye igitaramo cyiga ku nsanganyamatsiko iranga amoko no kugabana umuco.
Ninde ubona nyir'igice cy'imyenda? Ni ikibazo Virgil Abloh yasigaye atekereza nyuma y’icyegeranyo cye cya nyuma yakoreye Louis Vuitton, nyuma y’ibirego by’umubiligi w’umubiligi Walter Van Beirendonck ko yakuyeho bimwe mu bishushanyo bye - avuga ko Abloh yabihakanye yivuye inyuma.
Byatumye Abloh atekereza ku bijyanye no kwishyiriraho umuco, ndetse n'imyumvire ye yo gushushanya nk'umwangavu w'umwirabura muri Amerika ati: "Nakuze numva ko igishushanyo atari njye, kuko ntigeze mbona umuntu umeze nkanjye mubishushanyo".
Ahubwo, imvugo gakondo ya Abloh yari "normcore: ibintu biboneka byoroshye, bidashizweho. Imyenda yari kumaduka yanjye yagabanijwe, ntabwo yari yarakozwe, nimyenda kumuhanda mwiza, ibyo byarakozwe. Ubwo rero ni bwo burezi bwanjye bwo kwerekana imideli. ”
Ibikoresho bya Wardrobe - ikositimu yubucuruzi, ikoti ya denim, ikote ryumukungugu cyangwa ikariso ya jans - byashizeho urufatiro rwo kugwa kwa Vuitton. Ariko na archetypes zirashobora gufata umwanya wa politiki iyo urebye binyuze mumoko. Mw'isi itabona ibara, umunyeshuri asa ate, cyangwa umucuruzi, nyir'imurikagurisha, umwubatsi?
Ikibazo cyashimangiye ikiganiro cye cyimbitse, cyahuzaga ibintu bigize imivugo ya slam, choreografiya, igitaramo, gushyiraho ibihangano - ndetse no gusiganwa ku rubura. Yatunganijwe n’umuhanzi Josh Johnson, igitekerezo cyahumetswe n '“Umunyamahanga mu Mudugudu,” inyandiko yo mu 1953 yanditswe n’umwanditsi witwa James Baldwin.
Ubusanzwe byateguwe kugirango bikorwe imbonankubone, igitaramo cyafashwe amashusho nta bashyitsi kubera imbogamizi zihoraho zagenewe gukumira ikwirakwizwa rya COVID-19.
Guhagarara nk'imiterere ya Baldwin yari “Slam” umustar Saul Williams, watanze imikorere ya rukuruzi. Ahantu hafunguye yamweretse ikoti ryirabura ryerera mu misozi yubura, mbere yo kwimurirwa muri marble igezweho yashyizwe muri Tennis Club de Paris.
Abagabo bambaye amakositimu meza baranyuze mugihe umugabo aryamye hasi atazi ubwenge, yambaye nkabo. Ku majwi, umusizi w’Ubwongereza Kai-Isaiah Jamal yagize ati: "Nka Abirabura, nkabantu bahindutse, kandi nkabantu bahejejwe inyuma, isi iri hano kugirango tuyifate, kuko idutwara byinshi." Igitaramo cyasojwe nigitaramo cyakozwe numuraperi Mos Def.
Imyambarire yasomwe nka verisiyo yongerewe ya silhouettes imenyerewe: ikositimu yumukara yahinduwe hamwe na trompe-l'oeil ya marble, mugihe amakoti yarambuye kuburyo bugaragara hasi. Abloh yagize ati: "Nifuzaga gukora imyenda yari isanzwe, ariko nkayongerera imbaraga, ku buryo bahinduka abanyabukorikori, cyangwa umuhanda, cyangwa ubwanditsi."
Ibishushanyo mbonera byakunze kuvuga kubijyanye n amategeko ye "3 ku ijana": guhindura igishushanyo kiriho 3% gusa kugirango gihinduke ikintu gishya. Nuburyo bwamugaragarije ibirego byo gukopera, yizera ko bifite imperialiste, kubera ko abazungu basanzwe baguza indi mico.
Ahindukirira ameza abamunenga, Abloh yahisemo kwerekana ibishushanyo mbonera byirabura bishobora kutamenyekana mumico yuburengerazuba. Imyenda yagenzuwe, ikoreshwa kumyenda yo hanze cyangwa ijipo isa na kilt, yashizeho ikiraro hagati ya tartans ya Scottish hamwe nigitambara cya kente yambarwa na se wa Gana mugihe kidasanzwe.
Imyenda ishushanyijeho, ikubiyemo umukono wa indabyo ya monogramu ya Vuitton hamwe na piramide hamwe namakarita yisi, byari bishingiye kumyenda ya vibrant ibishashara yatoneshejwe na nyina.
Abloh yagize ati: "Kuba ndi umwe mu bashushanyije amabara yerekana kuri gahunda ya Paris, mu buryo bumwe, ndi umuntu ugenda uharanira ubudasa." Ati: "Mvugishije ukuri, sinshaka ko ibyo bintu biba akanya gato."
Kugira ngo ashimangire ku gitekerezo cye, uwashushanyije, wavuze amagambo mu magambo ashyira umukono ku kirango cye kitari cyera, yakoresheje umuhanzi Lawrence Weiner kugira ngo akore amagambo asebanya nka “Ahantu runaka,” agaragara ku mishumi y’imifuka no ku gitambara.
Louis Vuitton yerekanye icyegeranyo cyagwa-Itumba 2021 cyanditswe na Virgil Abloh i Paris ku ya 21 Mutarama.
Filime ya Virgil Abloh na 'Yimuwe na Motion'
Gutobora igikapu cye cya silhouettes isanzwe kandi isanzwe yari inyubako ya trompe-l'oeil, nk'isonga ryakozwe mu buryo bwa 3D bwerekana amashusho y’inzibutso za Paris nka cathedrale ya Notre-Dame, hamwe nuruhererekane rwimyambarire mugicucu kibisi gisoma nkigitekerezo cyiza. kuri enterineti yacu ifunga ubuzima - kandi yari yemerewe kugaragara kuri Instagram.
Hamwe nimyandikire yikusanyirizo ryinshi, basabye impamyabumenyi yubushakashatsi bwumuco, igitaramo gikubiyemo imbogamizi zugarije abashushanya muri iki gihe: nigute wakemura ibibazo byabaguzi, gukemura ibibazo bitandukanye, gutunganya ibintu ndetse nuburyo bikomeza guca urusaku?
Abloh yaratekereje ati: “Hariho igihe kitigeze kibaho cyo gutekereza.” Ati: "Gukora igitaramo muri 2021 biratandukanye na 2020 na 2019, byanze bikunze. Bisaba gutekereza cyane kugira ngo nkore ikintu gifite uburemere n'uburemere, ariko nanone mu bijyanye no gufunga inganda, cyangwa icyifuzo cyo kuguma kuri gahunda, no gukora ikintu cy'ubuhanzi. ”
Ni muri urwo rwego, kugwa kwa 2021 kwerekanaga umushinga we ukomeye cyane kugeza ubu, kandi ushimangira uruhare rwibiranga imideli nkibicuruzwa bikubiyemo umuco. Nubwo bigoye Abloh gusaba inguzanyo wenyine kubikorwa, urebye umubare wabafatanyabikorwa barema uruhare, nibyo rwose.
UMUZIKI: Amanota ya Filime yumwimerere no kwerekana umuziki
Icyerekezo cya Asma Maroof Louis Vuitton
Icyerekezo cy'umuziki by Benji B.
Umuziki Abashyitsi ba muzika: yasiin bey & Saul Williams
Saxophone & Umwironge: Tapiwa Svosve
Cello & Piyano: Patrick Belaga
Ingoma: Mathieu Edward
Inanga: Ahya Simone
Ibindi Byakozwe na Muzika by Daniel Pineda
Ibindi bisigo by Kai-Yesaya Jamal
Erekana Igitekerezo & Igishushanyo mbonera: PLAYLAB
Ikigo gishinzwe guhanga: Ba Studiyo Nziza
Umusatsi: Guido Palau
Kwisiga: Ammy Drammeh
Igishushanyo mbonera: Igishushanyo cya Studio
Icyerekezo cyubuhanzi & Ubushakashatsi: Mahfuz Sultan & Chloe Sultan
Imyiyerekano yimyambarire: La Mode en Amashusho Serivisi yimyambarire ya KCD
Abakinnyi ba Samuel Ellis Scheinman, Piergiorgio Del Moro;
Afashijwe na Arthur Mejean. 'Yimuwe na Motion' Iyobowe na Nadja Rangel mubuyobozi bwa Outofocus.