Demna Gvasalia yerekanye icyegeranyo gishimishije yavuze ko ari ode kubakozi bakora, nubwo bamwe babonye inzira ya politiki.
Mu myaka myinshi ishize, Joan Baez yaririmbye ati: “Zamura ikirahuri cyawe ku bantu bakora cyane.” Demna Gvasalia yari afite abantu bakora mubitekerezo bye mugihe yashushanyaga icyegeranyo cye cya Balenciaga - nigihe yerekanaga kumuhanda ku cyumweru mugitondo. Icyegeranyo, gahunda ye yanditse kigira kiti: “reba imyambarire ku kazi: kwambara imbaraga, uko umuntu yaba akora kose.”
Kugira ngo agire icyo abivugaho, mu bakinnyi be batandukanye cyane harimo abantu bo mu myuga itandukanye ndetse no mu bice bitandukanye by’uburezi, kabone niyo, bitandukanye n’umunyu wa Joan w’umunyu w’isi, umurongo wa Gvasalia wazungurukaga cyane cyane umukara wera (injeniyeri w’umukanishi, umufatanyabikorwa wigenga, umunyeshuri mu by'amategeko), kandi akenshi birema (umwubatsi, galleriste, styliste, gucuranga). Nibyo yego moderi, keretse niba umukobwa uri muri velheti yamenetse yari umwambaro muto imbere n'ikabutura yamagare inyuma ni impeta kuri Bella Hadid. Benshi muri iki gitaramo bari inshuti ze.
Bagendeye ku kintu gishimishije, cyo mu byiciro bine bya elliptique gisa na Gvasalia yashyize kuri sitidiyo ya sinema ya La Cité du Cinéma, ibintu byose bitwikiriye veleti - umwenda muremure wa etage kugeza ku gisenge, itapi, intebe amagana azunguruka hejuru. Bikorewe muri EU ubururu, umwanya wunvikana, gutumira no kwizihiza icyarimwe; umuntu yashobora kubitekereza nkurubuga rwibiganiro bimwe bikomeye.
Mubyukuri, hari ibintu byinshi byaberaga muri domaine ya Gvasaliya, kandi bamwe mubari bateraniye aho babonye satire ya politiki yo muri Amerika: imyenda y'imbaraga - Ivanka; imyenda yo hanze ya diva - Melania; hyper puffed-up parkas - guhindagurika kwa Donald Trump.
Gvasalia yakwemera ko nta subplot nk'iyi (nubwo yavuze ko yari kwiga uburyo bw'ishusho idashoboka, Angela Merkel). Ahubwo, mu kiganiro nyuma yo kwerekana, yavuze ko ubutumwa bwe bujyanye no kwambara kimwe. Yatanze ati: "Ni nk'imyambarire imwe kuri njye." Ati: "Nkanjye, ndagerageza gutekereza no gukora ubu buryo bwiza."
Gusa wasangaga habaho uburinganire buke muburyo bukomeye bwo gutekereza, akenshi butinyuka yatangaga kubagore nabagabo, kuva mubudozi busize kugeza kumyenda yakazi kugeza imipira. Na none kandi, niba "yambaye" yashakaga kuvuga indangamuntu ya Balenciaga yatezimbere kuva yahagera, yari ihari ari benshi - mu myenda yo mu muhanda, yavuze ko idapfuye cyangwa ko ari inzira, ariko ubu ikaba ari imwe mu myambarire. ; muri flaunting na manipulation ya logo, na cyane cyane mubunini, binini, binini, binini. Yatangiriye ku ikositimu isanzwe ku bagore n'abagabo ku rugero rwafunguye ibisobanuro bibiri - - imyambarire cyangwa frump. Ntabwo aribyo bigufi, byaciwe neza na shobuja umukecuru wambaye hamwe na kositimu yintambara hamwe nibitugu hanze - gusa ntibigomba. Gvasalia yaremye umurongo hamwe na corsetry boning ikurwaho, ituma igitugu kigwa mubyo umuntu atekereza byaba arc yoroheje.
Kugira ngo ibyo bigerweho, hagati y’uko akunda imiterere itagaragara ndetse n’umurage wa Cristóbal Balenciaga, Gvasalia arashaka gutunga no gukomeza gusunika, “uko bishoboka kose mu bijyanye no gupima amajwi:”. Ati: "Ibi nibyo numva ubutumwa bwanjye bujyanye na Balenciaga, kugirango nkomeze kugerageza amajwi."
Kandi si ku manywa gusa. Gvasaliya yerekanaga imipira myinshi nini cyane, amajipo yabo atimuka hejuru ya crinoline nini. Barebye - kandi basa nkaho bareremba - nk'abamikazi ba Disney ba animasiyo, ariko bahumekewe na Cristóbal yo hambere ishingiye ku gishushanyo cyo muri Esipanye.
Balenciaga Yiteguye Kwambara Kugwa / Itumba 2019 Paris
Nyamara kurekura crinoline, maze amajipo agwa mubyo yise "A-line neo-Gothic. Nashakaga gukora ikintu gishya muri byo, ”Gvasalia. Tekereza ko byakozwe, muri kimwe mu bishimishije, byegeranijwe bishya byigihe.