Umuyobozi wa gihanga Pierpaolo Piccioli yashishikajwe no gukusanya umukara n'umweru kandi byakozwe cyane mu cyegeranyo cya 2021.
Pierpaolo Piccioli yafunguye inyandiko zegeranijwe za Valentino akoresheje amagambo yavuzwe na Lucio Fontana, umuhanzi w’umutaliyani washinze Spatialism kandi uzwi cyane gutema no gutera icyuma. Ibivugwa byari bikwiye, kubera ko uwashushanyaga yerekanaga silhouette nshya - imyenda migufi migufi hamwe nijipo - gukata no guhindura igipimo cyumukono we hasi-uburebure bwamazi.
Ipantaro y'abagabo nayo yahinguwe hejuru y'ibirenge. Piccioli yari yagerageje kureba mu gihe gito, ariko yemeye ko iki ari igitekerezo cyingenzi cyo kugwa.
Igishushanyo mbonera cyahuye nitsinda rito ryabanyamakuru - byose byageragejwe muburyo bukwiye kandi bitandukanijwe nabantu - nyuma yiki gitaramo, cyerekanwe kuri Piccolo Teatro di Milano kumunsi wambere, umunsi Milan nakarere ka Lombardy bagarutse kubibujijwe bikabije, binjira mubyo bita. agace ka orange - intambwe iri munsi yumutuku - uhabwa ipikipiki yanduye coronavirus. Umwuka mubi wariyongereye binyuze mu gitaramo cya Live na Orchestre Symphonic ya Cosima na Milan Giuseppe Verdi, yerekana Sinéad O'Connor “Nta kintu kigereranya 2U.”
Ariko uwashushanyaga yashakaga gutanga ubutumwa bwubwisanzure nicyizere, avuga ko gufungura ikinamico nyuma y amezi menshi yo gufunga byari "ikimenyetso gitinyutse, hafi ya pank," gushobora "gusangira amarangamutima yerekana mugihe ibikorwa rusange ari byanze. ” Yashimangiye ko Piccolo ari “ikimenyetso cy’umuco utera imbere kandi ikubiyemo indangagaciro zose ikirango cyacu gihagaze, ni ahantu hatabangikanywa n’ubwisanzure.”
Piccoli yavuze ko ashaka gushimangira, atanga ubutumwa busobanutse. Kandi rero yarabikoze, nkuko icyegeranyo coed cyibanze kubintu byuzuye na palette yumukara n'umweru, usibye zahabu nkeya. Byari ode kubukorikori bwa Valentino nabanyabukorikori, kuko ibishushanyo na intarsia byari byiza kandi birambuye kuburyo budasanzwe, hafi ya couture. Piccioli ntajya yitandukanya nibyo yise "umwuka wa couture nk'umuco, ariko kubikoresha buri munsi kandi nta nostalgia ya kera."
Ibyasaga na mesh turtleneck mubyukuri byari bikozwe mumigozi ihindagurika yimyenda yashyizwe kuri tulle, ikora ishusho ya diyama, kandi yambarwa mubice munsi yishati, pullover na kote. Ikirangantego cya macro V cyangwa macro cheque ya gride irabagirana hamwe na intarsia, yongeramo ubwiza, mugihe lace ya Victorian imitako imeze nkimyenda ya polka. Imyenda yo hanze yari indashyikirwa, kuko Piccioli yasubiragamo peacato na jacketi nka capa - ikindi kibutsa couture.
Ku mugoroba, uburebure bwagarutse ku makanzu atemba.
Igihagararo cyari ikanzu ya chiffon yumukara mu mbaho imwe ifashwe hamwe nimyenda. Urukundo? Birashoboka, ariko Piccioli, yasobanuye ko gukundana mu magambo ye bidasobanura "ubwiza ariko Sturm und Drang, ni uguhitamo kuba umuntu ku giti cye, ntabwo ari itsinda, ni anarchy ya pank na subitifike. Ubu ni bwo buryo bwo gukundana ku giti cye, bwimbitse, hariho eroticism ariko uyu ntabwo ari umugore wigitsina cyangwa umugabo wa macho, nta stereotypes ihari, gusa abantu babonwa muburyo bwihariye, nta clicés. ”
Ibikoresho nabyo ntibyatengushye. Usibye kwambara pompe yambaye ubusa, stiletto inkweto zifite amano manini, uwashushanyaga yerekanaga inkweto zometseho amabuye ya reberi, bikagabanya ubukana bwabo.
Piccioli yahinduye imirongo yerekeza ku cyegeranyo cya couture cya Valentino Garavani cyo mu 1989 cyahumetswe n’umwubatsi wa Vienne Joseph Hoffman, nacyo cyaranzwe no gushushanya umukara n'umweru.
Ati: "Ntabwo ndeba ibyahise cyangwa ububiko, kubisubiramo byaba ari ukwigana, kandi nyuma yimyaka 20 kuri Valentino, ndizera ko nakiriye kode yikimenyetso nkongera nkagisobanura muburyo butandukanye, ni bimwe mubigize. njye. Byaba bigoye gutandukanya indangamuntu yanjye n'iya Valentino ". “Guhuza ibyahise ni kimwe mu bigize indangamuntu.”
Pierpaolo Piccioli
Mubyukuri, icyegeranyo cyasaga nkibishya kandi kigomba guhuza abakiri bato ikirango cyarambagizaga. Icyemezo cya Piccioli cyo gukorana n'umukinnyi w'amafirime, umuririmbyi akaba n'umurwanashyaka Zendaya kugira ngo berekane amatangazo yo mu mpeshyi bihuye n'intego ye yo gukora ikirango kurushaho guhuza n'ibihe kandi bikubiyemo, mu gihe gikomeza kodegisi zayo.
Ndetse nkuko inyandiko zerekana zavuzwe na Fontana, Piccioli yavuze ko nta nsanganyamatsiko yihariye yakusanyirijwe. Mubyukuri, uwashushanyije adakunda kuvuga inkuru muburyo bw'imyambarire, yizera ko rimwe na rimwe byahindutse amayeri. Ati: “Ibisobanuro ni icyegeranyo ubwacyo, binyuze mu kazi kanjye nshobora gukora politiki, kuzana indangagaciro n'amarangamutima, ururimi, kandi kuba hano ni igikorwa.”