Chanel Mbere yo Kugwa 2015 Salzburg
Karl Lagerfeld yerekeje kuri kamera kuri iPhone 6 maze amurika ifoto iherutse kuvumburwa: Umudage wubudage nkumuhungu wambaye lederhosen. Aceceka gato ati: “Nkiri umwana nta kindi nambaraga.Amaberebere y'uruhu yahumekeye igikapu gishya cya Chanel, isazi yimbere-ihindutse umufuka wa zipper ushobora gutuma uburobyi bwa lipstick bukora ibintu bitera uburibwe.
Ati: “Ugomba kwemera ko bisekeje rwose, kumupaka wanduye. Ariko birumvikana rwose, "Lagerfeld yishimye ubwo yarebaga icyegeranyo cye cya Métiers d'arts, cyitwa Paris-Salzburg.
Muguha ubuzima bushya muburyo bwa Alpine, Lagerfeld ateza imbere umurage wamazina nyirizina Gabrielle Chanel, wabonye ihumure kuri kimwe mubishushanyo bye kandi biramba muburyo butandukanye, ikoti yimifuka ine yambarwa nuwashinzwe kuzamura Salzburg. hoteri ya Mittersall. Nyir'icyo gihe, Baron Hubert von Pantz, yari umukunzi wa Chanel muri mirongo itatu, kandi kugaruka mu kigo nyuma yimyaka makumyabiri byari byiza cyane.
Ku wa mbere, Lagerfeld yabisobanuye agira ati: "Muri mirongo itanu, yagarutse hano, niko yabonye iyi koti kandi mubyukuri uko ikoti rya Chanel yavutse". Ati: "Urareba Chanel muri makumyabiri na mirongo itatu kandi ntakintu nakimwe cyari kimeze."
Lagerfeld yakoze parade azana verisiyo nshya ya jacket ya Chanel - hamwe na serwakira ya swateri na blouses - mugihe cyerekanwa bitatu byerekanwa munzu ya Rococo Schloss Leopoldskron. Indorerezi zafashe ibintu bisanzwe bya Tyrolean, byiganjemo ibihe bigezweho, kugeza kumyambarire mpuzamahanga.
Umukinnyi w'amafirime Àstrid Bergès-Frisbey yagize ati: "Byakozwe neza, uburyo bavanga imigenzo ahantu runaka n'umwuka wa Chanel." Ati: “Hariho abagore b'ubwoko bwose.”
Mbere yiki gitaramo, VIP hamwe nabanditsi bafashe amafoto ya salon nini hamwe n’umuriro wacyo wa marble, balkoni zikozwe mu cyuma hamwe n’amaterasi y'indinganire ireba ikiyaga gituje, cyatsi kibisi. Woodsmoke yo mu busitani yamenetse mucyumba, yongeraho imitako ya wintry yameza yuzuyemo ibisuguti, amacunga yometseho amacunga hamwe nimbuto zitondekanya amashusho yibinyejana bya 17.
Bergès-Frisbey, yitegura kuzakurikiraho, nka Guinevere mu guhuza Guy Ritchie na “Knight of the Round Table.” Yatangaye ati: "Nibyiza, kandi birambuye cyane".
Ati: “Dutangira gufata amashusho muri Gashyantare, cyane cyane mu Bwongereza.” Ati: “Birakomeye. Ndimo kwitegura. ”
Umukinnyi w'amafirime ukomoka mu Budage, Mavie Hörbiger, uba muri Otirishiya, yavuze ko igitero cya Chanel cyari ikintu gikomeye: “Kugira imyambarire i Salzburg, ntabwo ari ibisanzwe ku baturage ba Otirishiya.”
Igitaramo cya Lagerfeld cyafashije gutwika ibihe byabanjirije kugwa hamwe na hyper ishushanyije gufata chic conservateur: Inyenyeri za Crystal zinyeganyega kuri prim, karisiti yinzovu mu bwoya butetse; edelweiss idoze kuri suede; na lente byahinduwe amaboko manini, yikaraga ku ikoti idasanzwe ikozwe mu mababa, umutwe wa Falconry wakorwaga naba aristocrats bo muri Otirishiya.
Ati: "Nibyiza kuri we, oya? Ngiyo hafi yawe ushobora kugera kuri dirndl, "Lagerfeld yagize ati:" Lara Stone yinjiye yambaye umwenda wambaye imyenda ya taffeta yirabura yijimye hamwe n'ikibabi kimeze nk'icyuma gifatanye. “Sinshaka ko bisa nk '' Inzu Ntoya kuri Prairie. '” )
Hariho amaso ku bwami bwa Australiya-Hongiriya, na none, Lagerfeld yavuze ko, igihe cyo gutondekanya imishumi, imishino, n'imyenda byari uburyo.
Uwashushanyije ati: "Nkunda umwuka." Ati: “Sinshaka gukora ikintu na kimwe cya rubanda. Ibi nibyinshi mubitekerezo. Igomba kuba igezweho, igomba kuba iy'uyu munsi, ibipimo, byose. ”
Kubitekerezaho: Heidi imishumi yakomerekejwe mumatwi, mugihe ayo mabere yasobanurwaga nkikabutura ya kicky denim, idoze hamwe nudoda.
Igitaramo cyafunguwe hamwe nuruhererekane rwaka, cape isa na jacketi hamwe na zahabu cyangwa amabara ya veleti. Lagerfeld yakoresheje ingaruka zisa na cape kuri swateri ya turtleneck, imyenda y'ibirori itondekanye, hamwe na capitike yuzuye yuzuye yubatswe mumababa adasanzwe.
Ode ya Lagerfeld kuri Mitteleuropa yazungurukaga hagati y'urugo - indabyo z'urushinge zihita zidoda aho imifuka ya Chanel ikozwe mu mifuka ikunze kwicara - ku giciro cyiza, nk'ipantaro nziza ya flannel ifite imirongo iboshye hamwe n'udukariso twa zahabu cyangwa feza.
Kwambara nimugoroba byari bidasanzwe, hamwe n'ibinyugunyugu n'amababa byerekanaga kuri chiffon yubururu bwerurutse, kandi amaboko ya musenyeri yongewemo yongeraho gukundana kumyenda ya satine yumukara hamwe na dirndl yuzuye.
Mu muheto we, Lagerfeld yakuye pretzel ku meza ayiha Cara Delevingne, wafashe akantu hanyuma awufata hejuru nk'umupira w'amaguru nyuma yo gukoraho.
Abakiriya beza ba Chanel bagera kuri 220, harimo nitsinda rinini ryaturutse mu Burayi buvuga Ikidage, bamanuka kuri uyu mujyi mwiza, uhabwa agaciro kubera amateka yarwo, amateka y’imigani, opera n’ingoro nka Leopoldskron.
Ati: "Nibyiza cyane. Ni hamwe mu hantu nkunda cyane mu Burayi. Nkunda ubusitani. Niba nta gihu ushobora kubona imisozi, ”Lagerfeld. Yavuze ko mu myaka 26 ishize yarashe ubukangurambaga bwa Chanel hamwe n’umunyamideli Inès de la Fressange ku ngoro, imwe mu nzu ye ya mbere mu nzu y’Abafaransa.
Umushushanya yagize ati: "Najyaga hano cyane." Ati: “Ndetse nakodesheje amazu muri kariya gace. Nkunda Salzburg, nkunda kariya gace. ”
Ku mugoroba wo kuri uyu wa mbere, abashyitsi bitabiriye ifunguro ryiza kuri St. Peter Stiftskeller, bemeza ko ari resitora ya kera cyane mu Burayi maze binjira mu kigo cy'abihaye Imana. Mbere yuko abantu bose batura ifunguro ryamasomo arindwi yafunguwe na tartare ya fawn, ibirayi rösti na plum chutney, uwashushanyije yerekanye amashusho yiminota irindwi yerekana umuririmbyi “Byishimo” Pharrell Williams nkuriya muhungu wa ultra-chic lift na Delevingne nka a kuvuka ubwa kabiri Umugabekazi Elizabeth wo muri Otirishiya, uzwi cyane ku izina rya Sissi.
Williams croons mu ndirimbo y'umwimerere yanditseho ko ari duet hamwe na moderi, uri mu gukina no gucuranga.
Ibyifuzo byo kuruhande kuruhande rwuru ruzinduko rwa Alpine harimo amasoko azwi cyane ya Noheri ya Salzburg nibitaramo byumuziki byumuhungu uzwi cyane muri uyu mujyi, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
Abashyitsi bari mu kwerekana imideli basize bafite isakoshi ya tote irimo gusubiramo “Der Rosenkavalier,” opera isekeje yakozwe na Richard Strauss ishingiye kuri libretto y'umwimerere yo mu kidage yanditswe na Hugo von Hofmannsthal, hamwe n'ubuhinduzi bwayo bw'icyongereza hamwe na portfolio ya beribboned ibishushanyo byakozwe na Alfred Roller y'imyambarire no gushiraho umusaruro wa 1910.
Igihe cyose ambasaderi w’umuco, Lagerfeld yanashishikarije abashyitsi gutondekanya ibyokurya biryoshye byaho, harimo Kaiserschmarren, igikoma cyacagaguritse cyitiriwe umwami w'abami wa Otirishiya, Franz Joseph I, Williams yongeye kwisubiraho muri filime iherekeza iki gitaramo.
Uwashushanyije yinginze ati: "Ugomba kuryoha: Ni ikintu cyiza ku isi".
Icyegeranyo cya Métiers d'art, gikoresha inyungu zibiri, kigaragaza igice cyihuta cyane mu bucuruzi bwa Chanel, nkuko byatangajwe na Bruno Pavlovsky, perezida w’imyambarire ya Chanel.
Ati: "Hariho ibintu byinshi, kandi abakiriya bacu bakunda ibi bitekerezo byose bikikije ikirango". Ati: “Vuba aha bizaba ari bike cyangwa bike cyane nk'icyegeranyo cyo mu Kwakira cyangwa Werurwe.”
Yatangijwe mu 2002 kugirango izamure umwihariko wa ateliers Chanel afite, harimo inzobere muri cashmere yo muri Ecosse Barrie hamwe n’isosiyete ikora tweede yo mu Bufaransa A.C.T. 3, ibyo yaguzwe byagaragaye kuwa mbere, icyegeranyo ngarukamwaka cya Métiers d'arts ubu gishyigikiwe niyamamaza ryabigenewe - i Salzburg rigomba kwerekana Delevingne na Williams - kandi rikaba ritwarwa muri butike zose zo mu Bufaransa 189, ndetse no muri hafi 100 hitamo ububiko bwihariye.
Kugurisha ibicuruzwa, Pavlovsky yavuze ko kubyara hakiri kare - hagati muri Gicurasi hagati muri Amerika mbere, bigakurikirwa n'Uburayi hanyuma Aziya hagati muri Kamena - hamwe n'inkuru zikomeye ziri inyuma y'icyegeranyo, buri wese akazana ubuzima bushya mu mwuga w'amabara ya izina ry'inzu. Chanel yagiye i Dallas, Shanghai, Edinburgh na Tokiyo kugirango yerekane umurongo mushya.
Pavlovsky yagize ati: "Abakiriya bacu, bamenyereye kubona silhouettes nshya n'udushya muri butike buri mezi abiri." “Igihe cyose, hari byinshi byo kuvuga ku buzima bwe - nyabyo kandi bitekereza. Ibirimo ni ukubaka Chanel y'ejo. ”
Pavlovsky abajijwe mu cyumba cyometseho ibiti kireba ikiyaga cyahoze ari ibiro bya Max Reinhardt, umuyobozi w'ikinamico uzwi cyane akaba ari nawe washinze iserukiramuco rya Salzburg, Pavlovsky yavuze ko kwitegura kwambara ari cyo cyiciro cy’ibicuruzwa byihuta cyane muri Chanel, kandi ko cyavuguruwe. n'amaduka manini, byose byubatswe na Peter Marino, bigomba kwakira neza imyambarire.
Chanel iherutse kwimura iduka ryayo rya Vienne, ikirindiro cyonyine cya Otirishiya, kubera iyo mpamvu, kandi iherutse kubikora i Hamburg na Frankfurt. Dusseldorf iri hejuru.
Mugihe urutonde rwa Métiers d'art rwasunitse ibiciro muri zone nshya - amakoti arashobora kugera ku $ 25.000 - Pavlovsky yavuze ko hari ibintu bihendutse, nabyo. Ati: "Ntabwo ari ikibazo cy'ibiciro, ahubwo ni agaciro k'ibicuruzwa".
Abajijwe niba ibyegeranyo bya Métiers d'art - ubusanzwe byatewe n'ahantu nk'Uburusiya, Ubuhinde, cyangwa Turukiya - byumvikana muri ayo masoko yihariye, Pavlovsky yarashubije ati: “Tuvugishije ukuri, ntitugenzura. Kuvuga inkuru ya Dallas byari bikomeye mu Bushinwa no mu Buyapani nk'uko byari bimeze muri Amerika. ”
Nyamara kuba Lagerfeld aboneka muri Otirishiya, amakuru yo ku rupapuro rwambere mu mpapuro zirimo Salzburger Nachtrichten na Kronen Zeitung, hamwe n’icyegeranyo cye cya Chanel byanze bikunze bizamura imidugudu n’umurage gakondo.
Lagerfeld, wambaye blazeri yo gucumbika mu gihe cye, yahamagaye amagambo yavuzwe mu bihe byashize agira ati: “Ibisekuruza biza kandi bigenda, ariko lederhosen izahoraho.”
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