Kuva yatangira urubuga rwe rwa e-ubucuruzi, Jeffrey yavuze ko yishimira cyane amakuru yo kugurisha kugirango yumve icyo abakiriya be bashaka.
Charles Jeffrey yarebye mu mwijima kugirango akusanyirize hamwe. Ati: "Ni akanya ko gutekereza no kwemera ko… rimwe na rimwe ugira ibi sh-y".
Kuva mumwanya ujya kumurongo - manifeste mumashusho yamenetse
Iyi manifeste yanditse muri wino itagaragara, iyi prose-igisigo izaturika. Brushstroke yatwitse kumugongo, ifeza yibikeri ikurikirana, ipfundo ryububiko bwo gukuramo ibimenyetso. Amashusho yijimye mu mwijima. Reka dusumire iyi jelly kurukuta. Fata "guhumeka mbere yo gusimbuka".
Umwijima ni ugutuza, gutuza kwa Irving Penn portrait, ya daguerreotype, yo gushushanya vanitas: imbuto ziraboze kandi abantu bose barababara bafashe ifoto, ariko muribi byifuzo harimo umunezero. Akanya mbere yuko 'umwenda' uramburwa, uhagaritswe, utwite ubushobozi.
Muri uku gutuza harimo no kugenda. Imyenda irateranijwe kugirango yerekane gutitira imyenda, gupfundura, kuza kudasubirwaho: bahora hafi yo gushonga mumaso yumuntu. Urudodo rwumutwe tartan, rushyizwe mubukene, ruroroshye, rworoshye, ruzimu kandi rugaragara. Corbusian façade yerekana imvururu imbere.
AUTUMN / WINTER 2021 'CYIZA'
Niba LOVERBOY icyegeranyo cya nyuma cyari kijyanye n'icyizere no kugerageza kuba mwiza, ituro rye AW21 ryerekeye icyorezo cyibasiye urugo.
Ati: "Nashakaga kumenyesha umwijima twese twumva". Yaba yarakoze ubushakashatsi ku bicapo bya Dr Seuss mu gicuku - “bitandukanye cyane n'inkuru z'icyizere azwiho” yavuze ko uwashushanyije nawe yari guteza imbere ibitekerezo bya David Lynch agashimishwa na Louis Bourgeois akora mu mwenda.
Ibyo bifatanije no gusya hasi yo gufunga, byatumye akora ubushakashatsi ku mpande ziteye impungenge kandi ziteye impungenge zo mu mutwe no kwerekana ko afite intege nke hamwe no gusinyira ishema rye. Ubusanzwe afata ibicapo no kuboha mubishushanyo bye bwite, ariko kuriyi nshuro, biracyari muri firime yerekana amashusho yakozwe na Thurston Redding ya firime irimo umubyinnyi Kate Coin, yacapishijwe kumyenda yimyenda yo hanze.
Kuri AW21, tartan ye ya Loverboy yasunitswe kurenza urugero kuramba hamwe na PU, biha isura isa nimpu. Noneho byasunitswe bikabije gucika intege hamwe nudodo twashongejwe neza. Uwashushanyije avuga ati: “Imyenda n'imyenda bitwara indangamuntu.” Yerekana ko imyenda ishobora guterwa. Yabihambiriye ku gitekerezo cyo “gusana amarangamutima yavunitse,” yari ku isonga mu bitekerezo bye igihe dusohokaga.
Ikirangantego cye cyavukiye mu ikipe ya Dalston Vogue Fabrics, ariko amakipe amaze umwaka urenga afunzwe. Ubusanzwe gufunga vendredi cyangwa samedi nijoro kubashushanya bamarana murugo numukunzi we bagakina na maquillage. Agira ati: “Nkomeje gutekereza ku buryo ari byiza kuba mu cyumba cyuzuye abantu bose babyina indirimbo imwe.” Nkuko clubs nka Vogue Fabrics zikora ibikorwa byingenzi byimibereho, muguha umwanya abantu mubaturanyi, niko Jeffrey yifuza ko ikirango cye kiba nko kubaka umwanya no kuzamura abantu. Umukunzi wa 2020 azaba ahitwa Warholian, yubatswe kubufatanye no kumva umuryango, hamwe nabahanzi aho batuye ndetse numuryango wabo bwite. Mu mwijima, mu mucyo.
Umuyobozi uhanga - Charles Jeffrey (@mrcharlesjeffrey)
Ufotora - Thurstan Redding (@thurstanredding)
Imyandikire - Matayo Josephs (@matthew_josephs)
Kwisiga - Lucy Bridge (@lucyjbridge) kuri M.A.C Pro (@maccosmetics)
Umusatsi - Eugene Souleiman (@eugenesouleiman)
Shiraho - Andrew Lim Clarkson (@andrewlimclarkson)
Gukina - Madeleine Østile & Aamo Casting kuri CLM (@aamo_casting)
Inkweto - Abaterankunga bv Dr Martens (@drmartensofficial)
Kwambara inkweto - Natacha Marro (@natachamarro)
Imitako yubuhanzi - Andrew Logan (@andrewlogangallery)
Icyerekezo cyimuka - Kate Coyne (@ katecoyne68)
Icyitegererezo (ukurikije uko ugaragara) - Jasper Leigh (@jasperleigh_), Lotte O'Rourke (@lottepottehotte),
Qi Han (@ q.qihan), James Potter (@waltdisco), Linnea Skoglosa (@linneaskoglosa),
Omolola Onasanya (@omogirl__), Luke Magill (@whitetrashtray);
Ishusho yanyuma irerekana kandi Niall Underwood (@niallunderwood).