Isura ya: Maison Margiela Yiteguye Kwambara Kugwa / Itumba 2020 Paris John Galliano yakoze ubushakashatsi kuri “Burugumesitiri” igihe yatangizaga “Recicla,” guhuza ibice bya vintage mu cyegeranyo cye.
"Ikimenyetso cya burugumesitiri" cyigaruriye ibitekerezo bya John Galliano byo gutinda, guhera ku cyegeranyo cya Maison Margiela Artisanal yerekanye muri Mutarama. Kugirango yitegure kwambara, yakomeje iryo perereza n'ubuntu n'imbaraga zituje.
Galliano yakoraga uhereye kumyitozo imenyerewe, ahereye kumyambarire imwe yimyambarire, guhuza umukono wa regalia yimyidagaduro - kuroba, gutembera, kugenda - kimwe n imyambaro mbonezamubano, nko mumyambarire myiza yumudamu cyangwa blusse ya pusi-umuheto cyangwa ikomeye. ikote, yajugunywe ku bitugu.
Muri podcast ye, yavuze ko uburyo bwe ari “kugarura ibintu,” maze agira ati: “Nkunda igitekerezo cyo wenda gutangiza igitekerezo cyo kwishimira ibyo bimenyetso.” Kode yamenyereye, akomeza, agarura imyumvire. Yafunguye hamwe nuruhererekane rwimyenda yo hanze, "kwibuka" amakoti yatandukanijwe kugeza kumukingo no kumutwe bifatanye neza cyangwa ibara rimwe ryamabara menshi, amaboko menshi kandi yunamye. Ibi byambaraga imyenda yambarwa mubice, tulle ibonerana cyangwa chiffon hejuru y "imyenda y'ibanze" mu budodo. Nyuma, yerekanye amakoti yuzuye muburyo buhagije, amwe afite ibara rikomeye andi, yegeranye, nkaho igice cyimyenda ibiri itandukanye.
Ubuhanga butagereranywa bwa Galliano bwerekanwe neza muburyo yakoresheje aho yise "akazi-keza", kandi nibyo rwose. Rimwe na rimwe byavuyemo ibisubizo bitangaje ariko inzira-yonyine; hano, ibice bisa neza bikwiranye no kwimuka mubuzima busanzwe. Mubyukuri, ibyo byari bimwe mubwiza bw'iki cyegeranyo; kubibazo byose byo gukata, no de- no kwiyubaka, Galliano yageze kumyumvire itoroshye yo koroshya. Bimwe mubice bikurura ihumure byaturutse kuri palette, ihuza ryiza rya blues, icyatsi nicunga, ryashushanijwe namashusho ya Edward Hopper.
Igitekerezo cya "restoration" nticyatangiye kandi kirangirana no gutabaza kwa Galliano kode ya burugumesitiri. Ahubwo, byafashe ibisobanuro nyabyo hamwe na gahunda ye ya "Recicla", ibice bya vintage we hamwe nitsinda rye bashakaga kandi binjiza mubikusanyirizo, rimwe na rimwe nk'ikintu kimwe, ndetse rimwe na rimwe byinjizwa mubindi bintu, nkuko imyenda yaciwe hejuru ya vintage cashmere ibishishwa. Buri gice cyazamutse kizaza gifite ikirango gisobanura imyaka yacyo; ko ku mwenda utukura wubwoya wanditseho, igice: "Edition Edition: Igice kidasanzwe… Provenance: Avenue de Clichy, Paris (ahandi: rue Jules Vallès, Paris); Ikiringo: Mu ntangiriro za 1980. ”
Galliano yanditse kuri podcast ye ko kuzamuka nkibi bikora intego ebyiri.
Icya mbere, ivuga ko Martin Margiela yakiriye hakiri kare ibintu bya vintage yakwigana mu byegeranyo bye, kandi bikavuga ko ari ngombwa ko imyambarire igabanuka, mu gihe “itanga ikindi kintu.” Ku isaha ya Galliano, ubwo buzima bwa kabiri bwimyambarire bwakoresheje amafaranga.
Maison Margiela Yiteguye Kwambara Impeshyi / Impeshyi 2020 Paris