Mu cyegeranyo cye cya mbere cy’abagabo n’abagore, Thom Browne Yiteguye Kwambara Kugwa / Itumba 2020 Paris yashyize ibitsina ku ntera ingana, ibahuza binyuze mu kudoda.
Niba amazi azamuka kuri Balenciaga yasize umwe afite ibyago no kwijimye, haje inkuge ya Thom Browne kugirango ikize umunsi hamwe na reverie imeze nkabana.
Dore ibyashizweho: Kwerekana abagabo nabagore kumuhanda hamwe kunshuro yambere, uwashushanyije yashyize ibitsina murwego rumwe - mubisanzwe - muburyo bwumvikana, guhagarika inkweto za Ghillie. Byari urugendo rwiza.
Abagore bambaye inkweto za platifomu barashize bagomba guherekezwa kumuhanda nyuma yo kumva bacitse intege. Hashize kandi, amajipo ya hobble n'amaboko aboshye rimwe na rimwe, byerekana ahantu hatabona. Ahubwo, gutembera ahantu h'urubura rutangaje rwa shelegi, byahujwe na moderi ye-na-moderi ye, bambaye kimwe kuburyo butunganijwe neza mumajipo, imyenda hamwe na kositimu.
Ariko, kubera ko bose bambaye umwenda wirabura mumaso yabo (uhambirijwe imisatsi mito, buriwese ashyizwemo umukono Thom Browne umutuku, umweru nubururu), byari bigoye kumenya icyaricyo, kandi niyo ngingo. Ndashimira Janelle Monáe (wicaye kumurongo wimbere), Billy Porter, Laverne Cox nabandi benshi bagenda, ntakibazo rwose.
Gukina kuri storyline, buri cyitegererezo cyatwaye igikapu gitandukanye ninyamaswa. Hafi ya 33 muri zootopiya ya Browne - giraffi, inkoko, inkwavu, inkongoro, inkura, intama nibindi, kandi byari bishimishije kugerageza kubamenya bose. .
Browne yagize ati: "Natekerezaga ko nzahindura umurongo uri hagati y'umugabo n'umugore, kandi nkabasaba kwambara ikintu kimwe, mu mwenda umwe no ku ntera hejuru no hasi". Yongeyeho ati: "Twatangiye bibiri kuri bibiri mu nkuge ya Nowa, hanyuma tujya mu bivangavanze, kuko burya ubuzima bugomba kuba ubu, abantu bagomba kubana nuwo bashaka", akomeza agira ati: moderi yafashe amaboko hamwe numufatanyabikorwa utandukanye.
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Imyambarire yari hafi yo gukina hamwe na Harris tweed-umukara-na-twera, Browne yakoresheje nka canvas kubuhanga bwe buhebuje bwo kubaka, trompe l'oeil, patchwork hamwe no gukina.
Indirimbo ye yuzuye, ihuza igitsina yerekanwe, kuva nouveau itegura (imyenda yumukara babydoll yambaye imyenda ya organza muburyo bwo kwinginga, ikoti yimifuka hamwe namakoti hamwe nimyenda ya silike hamwe nudupapuro twa argyle) kugeza nouveau dandy (trompe l'oeil ikoti yambaye "umuntu" , ”Bitandukanye n'imbwebwe, yibye); ubucuruzi bwose (amakoti yimyenda ya flannel namakariso yambarwa nagasanduku keza); na LeBron baller (patchwork parka hamwe nu mpande zogosha hamwe nikabutura ihuye).
Thom Browne Menswear Imvura / Impeshyi 2020 Paris
Amakoti maremare ya karigisi hamwe nijipo yishimye yongeyeho uburyo bwo kugenda kuri siloettes ya Browne rimwe na rimwe ikaze, hamwe na halter hejuru hamwe nijipo yubatswe kuva ipantaro, amakoti hamwe nishati byubatswe. Yumvaga ari inkomoko nyayo.