LONDON, 9 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Bavuga ko kumenyera bibyara agasuzuguro. None se ibimenyetso bitamenyerewe byerekana iki, mubwonko bwo guhanga? Birashimishije. Stuart Vevers rwose birasa nkaho ashimishijwe nubucukuzi bwe bushya kuri Coach 1941, HQ yayo hejuru yumurongo wa High Line rwagati mumujyi wa New York. Hano hari igitangaza kinini, guhoberana umutima wose wa Americana mubikorwa bye. Byose bigomba kuba nkinzozi kumuhungu wo muri Yorkshire watinyutse gutekereza cyane.
Nibyo gushushanya Vevers nka yokel yoroheje, ariko ibyegeranyo bye bya Coach 1941 bikina byihuse kandi bitinyutse hamwe na archetypes zabanyamerika muburyo umunyamerika wapanze atazigera agerageza. Ikigaragara ni uko yakunzwe n'inzu ye nshya, ku buryo nyuma y’imyidagaduro yeguriwe Andy Warhol (hashobora kubaho umuhanzi w’umunyamerika?), Yeguriye icyegeranyo cye cyo mu mwaka wa 2016 mu muziki w’Abanyamerika, mu mpera za 70-hip-hop, na Bruce Springsteen .
Byumvikane nka mash-up idasanzwe: Fab 5 Freddy na Boss? Byagaragaye cyane muburyo bwo gukoresha ibikoresho, nka Born Muri Reta zunzubumwe za Amerika bapfundika amajosi n'amatako, cyangwa ingofero yindobo yininiye hasi mumaso. Amakoti make mu mpu zometseho amabara atandukanye atandukanye yari afite imyaka 70, ariko ubundi ibyo Vevers yerekanaga byari uduseke twinshi twambaye imyenda yabagabo, ubwoko bwamashati yimbaho, peacoats, ikoti hepfo, hamwe na Perfectos yakubise abasore (na bake abakobwa) bamaze kubona mu kabati. Nibyo, bike mu mpu byasaga nkaho igice cya cumi cyamakoti yatanyaguwe hanyuma akadoda hamwe muburyo bugezweho, butigeze buboneka. Bari akazi kenshi, ariko barangije kugaragara nkibanze.
Nibintu byiza byafashwe icyemezo. Vevers yavuze ku gitekerezo cyo "gutinyuka ubururu" muri iki cyegeranyo; Nakomerekeje ntekereza uburyo bishaje bisa nkaho kwambara imyenda itoroshye, yuzuye amayeri asa nkaho "yateguwe."
Byari inyama-n'ibirayi, imyenda y'ubururu-ibirahure, ibyingenzi, ibyingenzi, code, icyo ushaka cyose kubita - Vevers yashimishijwe niki gihe cyose: Archetypes niryo zina yahisemo: "Ikariso nziza, igikapu cyiza. , hamwe na pomp-up inkweto-nibyo binshimishije uyumunsi, numusore muto. Ibyo birashobora kuba ibintu byiza. ” Cool nijambo Vevers ashishikajwe naryo-igitekerezo cyumunyamerika, cyatangiye mu myaka ya za 40, igihe Coach yashingwaga (label yizihiza isabukuru yimyaka 75 uyu mwaka) kandi igihe igitekerezo cyumwangavu cyatangiye gushirwa ahagaragara. nkibuye ryumuco. Kandi imyenda ya Vevers uyumunsi yasaga, byoroshye, byiza. Amakoti akonje, ibishishwa bikonje, agace gakonje k'umukono wa marike yahinduye amakoti yogosha - “verisiyo yubwoya” - amajwi ya fuzzy-wuzzy dandelion-fluff yerekana neza igitaramo. Vevers yemeza ko igurishwa bakimara gukubita hasi. Byari byiza, nkindi myenda isigaye, nubwo batagiye kwimura ibitego byubucuruzi bwimyambarire.
Nta nubwo bagomba kwifuza. Ibinezeza byoroshye ni umukino Umutoza arimo, ariko, kuri Vevers, kuboneka ntabwo ari amafaranga gusa ahubwo nibyiza. Imyambarire ye ya Coach ni ibiragi - ariko ibiragi byakozwe neza. References buriwese arashobora gusobanukirwa, mumyenda buriwese ashobora kubona, haba mubitekerezo ndetse no kumugongo. Umunyabugeni yakubise umwenda wa gargantuan, yiyongera kuri GhostbustersStay Puft Marshmallow Man, maze araseka ati: "Ndabona abantu bambaye gutya muri NYC!" Nagiyeyo muri Gashyantare icyumweru cyimyambarire, ndabyemera. Niba hari ubutabera ku isi, iki cyegeranyo bivuze ko Vevers izabona abakiriya benshi baza kugwa-kandi bazitwaza ikirango cya Coach.