LONDON, 10 MUTARAMA 2016
na NICK REMSEN
Moschino ya Jeremy Scott irimo polarisiyasi, ariko birashimishije. Ikirangantego cye cyo gusetsa ni Pop-ier, wackier, isukari nyinshi kurusha iya Franco, ariko ibyo ntabwo ari bibi: Scott ni umuhanga mu gushushanya ijisho ry'ikimasa cyo kureba kuri njye. Ibintu byose yerekana birashobora kuba Snapchatted cyangwa Instagrammed neza cyane nta gutindiganya. Icyegeranyo yashyize ahagaragara kuri uyu mugoroba, mu rusengero rwa Mayfair, cyari kigaragara neza nka mbere, nyamara hari ubushishozi bugaragara, tubikesha ibitekerezo byatanzwe n’abahanzi bo mu Bwongereza agitprop Gilbert & George.
Scott ati: “Nifuzaga gukora imyenda irenze urugero, ku buryo nasangiraga nabo icyayi.” "Kandi igihe nababwiraga ibitekerezo byanjye kuri iki cyegeranyo, baravuze bati:" Kuki utavana muri archive yacu? "Noneho kuva kumusaraba ukageza kumutwe kugeza kuri slogan [byagaragaye ko byihuse kandi birakaze mubintu hafi ya byose] byari bihari ibintu byinshi byiza cyane nashoboye kubishyiramo. ” Ikigaragara ni uko ibishushanyo bikungahaye kuri G & G byari byateje indi tsunami ya chromatic mu bwonko bwa Scott bwigeze butekereza - icyegeranyo cye cyo kugwa cyari umukororombya mubiyobyabwenge, rave-y neon, kugeza kumatwi ya florescent irangi. . 'oeil yambarwa na mirongo cyenda clubkids). Igitangaza Dr. Martens - inkweto za stile, ibice byakoraga nkubutumire, yakiriye graffiti imwe. Imirongo ya koleji nayo yakorwaga hakiri kare, haba mubitambaro cyangwa ishati, kuguriza ibintu byoroshye.
Muburyo bumwe - kandi ibi biragereranijwe urebye uburakari bwa Scott-hariho n'amaraso y'ibanze mumyenda. Ati: "Imiterere myinshi iroroshye, kandi nakoze byinshi." “Hafi nk'imyenda yashyizwe hamwe - nk'ikariso iboshye ifite amaboko ya MA-1.” Collage irashobora kandi kwitirirwa Gilbert & George: Jourdan Dunn-wagendaga mu gice cyabategarugori ba Pre-Fall ya Moschino, yerekanwe icyarimwe - yambaye ikoti rya aviator ifunze ifite ikariso yometse inyuma kandi amaboko yanditseho kashe. (Ahandi, urugero rumwe rwibanze rwarwo ni SPUNK, yegeranye na shitingi ya jeans). Umuhire Blue Smith yafunguye kandi afunga igitaramo muri Lisa Frank, ariko silhouette nibindi bice byinshi byari bigaragara: ikositimu imbere, n'umuyoboro wo kuzenguruka.
Hamwe na Neneh Cherry, Noomi Rapace, Umuhire, Jourdan, ndetse na Taboo wo muri Black Eyed Peas ku ntoki, Scott, mubisanzwe, yazanye ibyamamare na flashbulbs mubindi bitaramo byo hasi bya Londres: Abagabo. Kandi nkuko ubishaka cyangwa utabishaka, icyo ni igice kinini cya paki ye, ubwoko bwa pop superficial curation, hamwe no gukabya kugirango ushimishe. Igihe finale yakandagiraga, remix ya Michel Gaubert ya "Nka Isengesho" ya Madonna yaje guhinda umushyitsi - hanyuma kumurongo, "abantu bose bagomba kwihagararaho," ntiwabura guseka. Scott ni impyisi yonyine, ariko magnetism ye bivuze ko azahora afite paki.