LONDON, 11 MUTARAMA 2016
na LUKE LEITCH
Hari umucuranzi wagize ingaruka ku myenda y'abagabo kurusha David Bowie? Birumvikana ko atari: Ubucuruzi bwimyenda yabagabo bwari bukwiye kumwishyura. Muri iki gihe cya Burberry show, icyambere cyingenzi kuva amakuru yatangazwa muri iki gitondo cya Bowie yitabye Imana, inzu yunamiye bidasubirwaho umwimerere wongeye guhimbira bose. Mbere na nyuma yerekana, indirimbo ze zacuranzwe. Kandi umuhanzi wo kwisiga Wendy Rowe yakoresheje glitteri stardust kuminjagira mumatama ya moderi.
Inyuma, Christopher Bailey yavuze ko Bowie yagize ati: "nini cyane igihe nakuraga. Yari umuziki nahumekewe nkiri umwana. Ubwoko yakweretse uburyo butandukanye bwo kubaho, bwo kwerekana imiterere yawe, mumuziki we no mumyambarire. Kandi hariho uburyo yabayeho mubuzima bwe; hari uruhande rwihariye kuri we kandi uruhande rukomeye. Yagize ingaruka zikomeye kubantu benshi, rwose nanjye. Ntabwo ari ejo ariko ejobundi twarebaga ifoto ya Bowie yambaye ikoti ya Burberry muri za 60. Twari kuvuga gusa mubyukuri imbaraga ze. Hanyuma, muri iki gitondo. . . birababaje bidasanzwe. ”
Mark Ronson yari mu gice cyamamare: Mugihe "Starman" yakinaga kuri PA, twamubajije ibitekerezo bye. Yavuze ati: “Mu vy'ukuri nari mfise iyi ncuti, yapfuye imyaka itandatu, nta n'icyenda. Kandi twakinnye 'Starman' mugihe cyo kumushyingura. Ibyo ntaho bihuriye n'ikintu cyose wambajije, ariko nabitekereje gusa. Nibyo, birumva bidasanzwe kuba mwerekana imideli. Byinshi birashoboka ko agira ingaruka kubantu bose - cyane mumuziki, cyane mubuhanzi, cyane muburyo bw'imyambarire. Ntabwo mfite uburyo bwo kuvuga neza. Birababaje. Ariko rero, umuziki we uzagira ingaruka kumasekuruza. Bimaze kugira ingaruka ku bisekuru bitatu - ibye, ibyanjye, kugeza ku kindi - kandi bizagenda bityo nzi neza ko mu myaka amagana. ”
Bowie rero yari mucyumba cyane. Kandi nubwo byari bidasanzwe kuba mu kwerekana imideli, byasaga naho ari apposite. Ubwoko bwiburyo. Munsi ya Bowie, iki cyegeranyo cyamenyekanye cyane kubwimbitse bwacyo (busa) bworoshye: Ukurikije uko ubibona, byari icyegeranyo kidafite igitekerezo cyangwa icyegeranyo igitekerezo cyacyo cyari kigizwe cyane kuburyo cyanze gushyira mubyiciro.
Inyama n'ibirayi byayo, muri make, byari imyenda yo hanze. Hafi yubwoko bwose. Kandi - ukoresheje ububiko bwa Burberry-bwakuwe muri buri vintage. Mu 1856, umwaka Burberry yashinzwe, Umwamikazi Victoria yarebye isuzuma ry’amato aho ubukorikori amagana bwari bugizwe n’amato manini yari afite icyo gihe ku isi - kuva ku byuma kugeza ku bwato bw’imbunda - bwanyuze mu bwato bwe. Iki gitaramo cyari isubiramo ryimyenda yimbere ya Burberry: Flotilla yarimo amakoti manini atukura, yagenzuwe hejuru yamakoti, amakofe ya gisirikari, amakoti menshi yuzuye inzozi, parike ya Arctique, parike y’amafi, imyobo myinshi - birumvikana ko amakamyo, ibisasu, blusons, piuminos, ubwoya, indege zisubiza inyuma, hamwe namakoti make yapimwe kubipimo byiza. Igice cyingenzi, nubwo, cyasaga nkicyerekezo cyo hejuru - rimwe na rimwe igice cya kabiri, rimwe na rimwe cyuzuye - cyakoreshwaga rimwe cyangwa kabiri nk'imyenda yo hanze ariko akenshi nka membrane ihuza hagati yubwoko bwose bwa subgenres ya kote yambarwa hejuru yabo. Umuzungu wera, hamwe na cola ndende irekuye yemerera kurinda umubiri no gushimangira ubwiza bwumubiri, itandukaniro rya Burberry kumurongo rusange wa nyuma ya 70 ya nylon ryatanze umwanya wuzuye - nyuma ukazunguruka muburyo bukurikiranye - aho ugomba kwerekana. imyenda iri hejuru. Keretse niba munsi yimyenda, ipantaro akenshi wasangaga ibivange bya gisirikari, bigufi kandi byoroheje, akenshi hamwe nabagendera kumafarasi bimanuka ukuguru. Ibi byambaraga hejuru yijimye, siporo yoroshye hamwe na rubber nodules kumano hamwe na contra-color sliver foam soles, cyangwa imigati.
Niba hari insanganyamatsiko ihuza, yari Ihuza. Ugushyingo gushize Burberry yatangaje ko 2016 ari umwaka uhuza imirongo yayo yose - Prorsum, London, na Brit. Amagambo yanditse ku nyandiko yagize ati: "Ikintu gishaje, ikintu gishya, ikintu cyatijwe, ikindi ubururu". Hano ibyo bipimo gakondo byubukwe bwiza byujujwe namakoti yububiko, igikapu gishya cya satchel, hejuru yumuhanda, hamwe nubururu bwumubiri wubururu, butukura butukura. Bailey yagize ati: “Ni uguhagarara ku kintu runaka no kwishimira uwo uri we, ukavuga ko iyi ari kamere yawe, hamwe n'ibintu byose bikorera hamwe ku isi bihinduka cyane.”