MILAN, 16 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Nyuma yo kwerekana Ermenegildo Zegna yerekanwe na Erfenegildo Zegna yagize ati: "Embellishment iri muri l'air du temps". Ibyo bisa nkaho ari ibintu byuzuye, kandi ibintu byigifaransa byumvikana nkuwiyitiriye, bikabuza ko Pilati yayoboye Yves Saint Laurent mugihe cyimyaka hafi icumi, bityo yemerewe gutira ururimi kugirango asobanure imyumvire idashidikanywaho kandi igaragara vuba muri Milan yerekanwe. Umwuka ni uw'igiciro, n'uw'umugabo utatse.
Zegna yashyizeho izina rya "Couture" kuri label yayo, kugirango yerekane umurongo wateguwe na Pilati. Umuntu arashobora kwibwira ko bivuze couture mubigeragezo, gusunika imbibi - imiterere idasanzwe, ibikoresho bya tekiniki - no mubiciro. Uyu munsi, nubwo, Pilati yafashe couture nkibisobanuro byose byicyegeranyo cyakinaga namasezerano yacyo hanyuma akabihindura mumagambo yubugabo.
Kinini. Toni yimyenda yabagabo igerageza kubikora, ibihe byigihe, mubisanzwe nkurwitwazo rwo gukoresha ubwoko bwiza bwo gushushanya Pilati yagaragajwe nkumwuka wubu temps. Nibyo, ahari, impamvu Pilati ubwe yasebeje gato nkuko yabivuze "kurimbisha." Ati: "Ntabwo nemeranya n'uburyo mbibona." Yakoze rero ikintu gishya hamwe nayo.
Amateka ya Pilati muri Saint Laurent amushyira mu muco w’Abafaransa wo gukora imirimo ya atelier - gushushanya, gushushanya, gukora cyane ku ruganda - bitandukanye no kohereza igice kinini cy’ibishushanyo ku ruganda no gutegereza ko ingero zahindukirana nko mu Butaliyani. . Azi imigenzo ya couture nkabakora imyenda mike yabagabo. Ongeraho ibyo hamwe nuko Pilati afite ubwenge bwubwonko, kandi agashotora nkana, kandi urumva impamvu gusubiramo igitekerezo cya couture byari bimwe mubyiza byeguriwe umubiri wumugabo.
Haute couture ya Zegna Fall 2016 ntabwo yafashwe nkurwitwazo rwo kurimbisha, ahubwo yafashwe nkigitekerezo cyo gucukumbura, ibimenyetso byayo nibimenyetso byaciwe, bigarurwa, kandi bisobanurwa. Iseti yari salon yuzuye hamwe na gilte yicaye amaguru, ariko yarumishijwe mumababi, nka Breakfast ya Meret Oppenheim muri Fur. Kandi imyenda yagonganaga na couture tropes: ubunini butondekanye cyane mubitambaro byambaye kimwe cya kabiri; brocade nziza na jacquards; imyenda ya nimugoroba nziza cyane. Ariko iyi haute yasutse homme. Buri modeli yari ifite umubare, nka salon gakondo yerekana: Pilati, ariko, yari ifatanye n'ingofero za fedora, zishushanyijeho imishumi, cyangwa zihambiriye ku mifuka y'inyana. Umunyabwenge.
Stefano Pilati ni umunyabwenge cyane-kandi rimwe na rimwe, wibaza niba koko abagabo bashaka ibimenyetso nkibi biva muri label nziza. Ubona gute ukora ikintu kitavuga - ikote rinini, rihenze vicuña; umufuka munini, uhenze w'ingona-kandi winjiza amafaranga menshi? Kuberako ibyo atari imyambarire-kandi amaherezo, ntabwo ari ibintu byiza. Byongeye kandi, ntabwo biramba. Ni kangahe abantu bazashaka kugura ibintu bimwe bidafite ubwonko, inshuro nyinshi? Ugomba kubivanga.
Nibyo Pilati yakoze hano. Ubuso bwari shingiro, gushushanya ntabwo bicaye hejuru gusa ahubwo byanakingiwe mumyenda ubwayo. Kandi kuri ibyo byose byo gushushanya, ubunebwe bwari ubwambere - amabara yabayeho gake: imvi-ubururu, violet-imvi, ubufasha bwiza bwingamiya, imvi nyinshi. Pilati yagize ati: "Ibice bitangaje cyane ni ibishishwa." Basunikishije ijosi, ariko bakavuga ko zipper zakinguwe, zambarwa no kudahuza ishati ishaje. Umuti ufite imyifatire mishya: Ibintu by'agaciro ntugomba kuba iby'agaciro.
Nakomeje gutekereza kuri Saint Laurent-umugabo-muri iki gitaramo, ubwo twashimye imyenda ya Pilati duhereye ku myanya imwe abakiriya ba Yves bahagaritse kugirango bahindure hejuru ya couture ye. Monsieur Saint Laurent yashakishije le guceceka des vêtements, kandi ibyo byari byiza kuri Zegna ya Pilati. Iyi myenda yari nziza cyane ariko ituje. Niba hari icyo bavuze, byari "reba, nyamuneka." Ndashaka kumenya icyo bagura.
Yves Saint Laurent nawe yari chic nta makemwa. Igikoni cyari ijambo Pilati yakomeje avuga, arasetsa, nkumwana uvuga ibiteye isoni. Nka nyito, chic yumvikana nabi-ni ijambo tutigeze twumva vuba aha hafi yimyenda yabagabo. Abantu bahitamo kwikinisha cyangwa gukonja. Pilati yemereye ati: “Igikoko kirashobora gukabya. Ati: “Ariko, ndatekereza ko byari byiza rwose.” Chic rwose nibyo byankubise. Kandi ndi umufana.