MILAN, 17 MUTARAMA 2016
na ALEXANDER FURY
Agashusho ni ijambo ryakoreshejwe mumico ya none, ntabwo ari imyambarire gusa. Ari mukuzunguruka kurubu kugirango dusobanure ibintu byose kuva hamburger kugeza kumpuzu. Hanze y'Igiterane cyo Kugwa kwa Calvin Klein 2016, ibihumbi by'abakobwa bavuza induru baririmbye izina rya Cameron Dallas, bigaragara ko ari kuri interineti. Umwe muri bo yagize ati: "Niwe shusho yacu", amarira atemba mu maso. Ntamuntu numwe mubuvandimwe wimyambarire wasaga nkuwigeze amwumva, ntanubwo dushobora gukora ibyo yakoze. Yari Warholian.
Nicyo kintu kijyanye n'amashusho; ntago ari benshi buri wese ashobora kumvikanaho. Italo Zucchelli afite abarenga bake kuri Calvin Klein, nubwo-yambaye imyenda, igitambara cyo mu rukenyerero hamwe nuwambere watsinze ibishushanyo mbonera ku isi byashyizwe hejuru; hariho kandi na ba demigodi bambaye, bambaye amajwi, kandi bambaye kimwe cya kabiri badahoraho na Bruce Weber, ubwoko bwabasore abo bakobwa bangavu baba barataka mumyaka 20 ishize. Nylon yometse kuri zahabu, platine, na zahabu-zahabu yashushanyije mu maso no mumibiri ya bagenzi babo b'iki gihe, moderi ya bffed-out ituma Calvin Klein yerekanako itandukanye rwose nibindi byose mumyenda yabagabo. Ntabwo nabuze gutekereza ko basa nkaho bashushanyijeho amashusho gatolika ya zahabu yabakekwa kuba beza. Ariko birashoboka ko ibyo bitari nkana.
Zucchelli yubatse icyegeranyo kuriyi nshuro ku kindi gishushanyo: ikositimu yumugabo. Ati: "Nashakaga kwerekana imbaraga rusange z'ubudozi bw'abagabo". Yahisemo kubikora ashyira imyenda y'abagabo ku bagore bwa mbere-umunyamideli utinyutse nka Mariacarla Boscono, Iselin Steiro, Jessica Miller, na Gemma Ward. Ntabwo rwose ari Linda, Christy, Claudia, na Naomi, ariko abambere bane, bafite ibintu byo kumenyekanisha ako kanya. Zucchelli wo muri iyo myenda ya Calvin, yambaye uruhu rwambaye ubusa ku bagabo no ku bagore, yagize ati: "Ni amarangamutima, igitsina." Baciwe ku buryo budasubirwaho - rimwe na rimwe neza cyane ntiwigeze umenya neza uburyo bubatse imitsi yimitsi muburyo bwa Superman. Ntabwo ari uko batari basanzwe bahabwa: Bisaba ubwoko bwihariye bwumugabo kugirango agaragare neza mumyenda ya CK-ikibuno yambaye imyenda y'imbere-nkimbere-yimyenda yambaye ikoti yikoti irangiye. Twese tuzi icyo bivuze.
Guhinduka, ariko, ninsanganyamatsiko ishimishije mubyimyambarire - cyane cyane hano kuri Klein. Zucchelli yahinduye denim mo jacquard, yiboheye cyane muri trompe l'oeil yo kwambara no kurira burimunsi, bigatuma iminsi yose iba iyagaciro. Zucchelli yabanje gukoresha iyo jean jacquard kuri Spring - nuko babura frisson nziza yo gutungurwa. Ditto foiling, yibukije icyegeranyo cyihariye cya Helmut Lang. Nta muntu n'umwe wigeze abuzwa amahwemo. Alchemy niho Zucchelli yajugunywe hanze - uko bigaragara, ni ikintu ashishikaye cyane, kandi afite isomero ryuzuyemo ibitabo bifatika. Byasobanutse, byombi nkibihumeka inyuma yibyo byose bya nylon, byerekana ingaruka za anoraks ya utilitarian na jacketi ya MA1; kandi birashoboka kumurongo wambere uhari Dallas idasanzwe. Ubushishozi googling yamenye ko yahinduwe muri platine yumuco wa pop akoresheje imbaraga za alchemic mbuga nkoranyambaga zo mu kinyejana cya 21 (uko bigaragara, ni umuhanga cyane cyane ukoresha imbuga nkoranyambaga Vine).
Ese Zucchelli yahinduye zahabu muri Klein hamwe niki cyegeranyo? Ntabwo aribyo. Imyenda yari yoroshye, ariko irashobora gukoreshwa; ibyuma byuma byafatwaga, ariko bumvaga bigarukira kubanditsi. Ntabwo byari bihagije mubyukuri biranga Klein biranga, nabyo. Muri rusange, Zucchelli yatanze ikiganiro cyari ifeza ikomeye cyane, yambaye ikositimu yumukara yaciwe neza.