Bya Miles Socha
Nibyumvikana kwerekana ibyegeranyo byabagabo nabagore kumuhanda umwe? Umubare munini w'abashushanya hano muri Milan baravuga ngo "yego," harimo na Miuccia Prada, wasobanuye icyamuteye gutya ati: "Iyo nkora ku byegeranyo by'abagabo, mpora nshimishijwe kandi nshimishwa cyane no gukora iperereza ku buryo butandukanye abagabo n'abagore bitwara. igitekerezo kimwe n'ubwisanzure busesuye. ”
Birashoboka rero ko ibiganiro byose hamwe nintoki zijyanye na runway yerekana kugenda abaguzi ni amayeri. Reka tubyumve kuri coed!
Prada rwose yakoze ikibazo gikomeye hamwe niki gitaramo kidasanzwe, umwe mubagabo beza beza bambara mumyaka. Ubwanyuma, imyambarire-y-intebe yawe hamwe nicyegeranyo kitari gitandukanye gusa ahubwo gikangura ibitekerezo kandi kirashimishije hamwe no gukurura amarangamutima.
Ninde bariya bagabo n'abagore basa nubwibone mu ngofero zabo zabasare, amakoti adoda neza hamwe na kositimu imwe, amakariso hamwe na kode bitandukanije, kubaza no kumanika? Ni ubuhe bwoko bw'imvura y'amahindu, cyangwa ibigeragezo, byagize ibihe?
Backstage, Prada yavuze ko yatekereje ku mateka menshi: Ntabwo ari intsinzi yumuco, ahubwo "ibihe bibi kandi bigoye" bisaba ubutwari nishyaka ryo gutsinda. Yatekereje kandi ku “bibera ubu,” yerekeza ku ntambara, urugomo n'imivurungano isenya cyangwa yimura abantu babarirwa muri za miriyoni. Igitaramo cye, yavuze ko cyari umusaruro wo “kuvanga, mu buryo bwa none, ibyo bitekerezo byose no gushaka uburyo bwo kubikora ubu.”
Yakoranye no gucapa hamwe na Christophe Chemin, umuhanzi uzwi cyane mu Bufaransa ufite ibishushanyo mbonera - yamushushanyijeho amashati yo mu nkambi ya mirongo itanu, kumukundira - ikibazo no gusubiramo amateka. Kurugero, imwe mu ikaramu yubururu, yiswe “Iyingenzi,” yerekana ibyamamare, ikubiyemo Hercules, Sigmund Freud ufashe inkoni, Nina Simone mu ntoki za bokisi na Che Guevara ufashe Oscar.
Aya mashusho yatondekanye cyane yagarutsweho mubutunzi bushya, guhuza hamwe nibisobanuro byatanzwe binyuze mubice byinshi byibiti byimbaho byubatswe kugirango bikangure ikinamico cyangwa ikibuga rusange. Abagabo bambaraga byinshi muburyo bwo kwambara mu mazi, guhera ku makoti mato, yambaye ikibuno kugeza ku makoti akomeye ndetse n'amakoti meza ya ofisiye. Ikariso ya flawway na hoods - mubitambaro by'ishati, uruhu rukomeye cyangwa inkweto zometse ku murongo - bisa na verisiyo ya 2016 ya Prada yakubise fur yipeti ya yore.
Mugihe imyiyerekano yagendaga itera imbere, imyenda yabaga ifite imitako ya folkloric hamwe nu rugo rwakoreshwaga nko kuboha intoki cyangwa gukata inkokora. Mubice byinshi, Prada yakoresheje ibikoresho bikomeye kandi byoroshye: Uruhu rwamashati ya popover hamwe nipantaro byoroshye; denim ya koti yoroheje cyangwa ingofero, hamwe n'ubwoya bwagenzuwe bwo guswera, bidasobanutse neza ya mirongo irindwi. Ipantaro yahinguwe kimwe kandi rimwe na rimwe ntibyoroshye muri ubwo buryo bwa Prada nkana.
Amatsinda y'abagore yumvikanaga cyane n'abasare bayobye, umuyaga uhuha cyane, baryamana n'inkweto ndende kandi bishushanyije. Hariho suite yimyenda ya satine yambaye neza na veleti hamwe na mirongo ine yumuyaga - iyo myaka icumi yo gukusanya imbaraga muri iki gihe cyabanjirije kugwa - demure zose usibye kumugongo ufunguye.
Abajijwe inyuma yinyuma niba yashakaga kwerekana amajwi ateye ubwoba, Prada yashubije uburyo bwe butagereranywa kumyambarire: ubwenge nyamara bidafite ishingiro. Yishuye ati: “Birakomeye kandi vy'umuntu. Ati: “Kugerageza kumva ingorane zabantu nicyo tugomba guhura nicyo tugomba gukora. Ariko nanone ndagerageza, ndizera ko bizagenda neza. ”